alex1206

iTrader: (3)

Hi
I am interested in purchasing the n-flow radiator, r1144n, but after searching I have learned that the intake tube and fan shroud need to be modified to fit the radiator. Also a hard heater line needs to be bent in order to get better clearance for the lower radiator hose. Are my findings correct?

I don't want to cut the fan shroud if I don't have to. My only power mods is a full RB exhaust. The car will see track time, but I believe the single pass koyo radiator will offer enough cooling.

Anyone with the n-flow installed on a NA s5? How did the install go? What were the exact modifications made to make the radiator fit?


Thanks in advance!
Alex

Blackfc3srx7

iTrader: (1)

I have that radiator in a S4. I don't know if that will help but the stock intake doesn't work at all. Its a lot thicker and sticks out farther so the fan shroud as wouldn't work for me.

alex1206

iTrader: (3)

Ok, here's my little write up on the Koyo N-Flo for a series 5 Rx7 going into a series 5 with installation and what it's like cooling, etc as people have been asking questions about it. I hope this answers everyone's questions in one go.
WARNING: I will probably dribble for a bit about it!

Before I start I just want to say my little disclaimer bit. This is my experience with the radiator and installing it and to keep in mind that this is an aftermarket radiator that’s at least double the thickness of the stock radiator, so you will need to do some fiddly little things to get it fit. I do not hold any responsibility if anything goes wrong with your car or the place you buy it from (I got mine from eBay, Boombop shop or some ****), this is just my review sort of thing.

So having said that lets get started.

So I tore out my stock series 5 radiator which had seen better days, the top tank had started to separate from the core and developing hairline cracks in it.
<BR><BR>

The Koyo radiator uses the stock brackets off the core so don't throw your old one out just yet!
The brackets unbolt from two screws, one at the top and one at the bottom, under the crusty foam...
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/OldRadiator2.jpg" alt=""/>

So here's the radiator out of the packaging, the welds are top notch (being machine welded and all) and overall seems good.
It has some improvements over the stock one, for one thing it has a bleed screw on the inlet pipe makes filling the radiator MUCH easier and quicker.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/Koyo2.jpg" alt=""/>


Here are the factory brackets unbolted and ready to install.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/Koyo3.jpg" alt=""/>

When bolting the factory brackets to the radiator, the factory bolts are actually 1mm too long and hang out a little bit. But a generic 10mm bolt that I have fits perfectly. So either use a washer or use different bolts.
The factory bolt on the left is longer...
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/boltdifference.jpg" alt=""/>


Here's a bracket bolted and on.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/KoyoandBrackets.jpg" alt=""/>

Here's the factory shroud against the radiator, as you can see the shroud doesn't cover the whole radiator and the side mounts are about 20mm to far away from the shroud to bolt on, since the radiator is thicker! I also ended up using cable ties to hold the sides of the shroud down.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/KoyoandShroud.jpg" alt=""/>

I also had to trim the top and bottom corners shroud on the drivers side to fit, I used tin snips since I was feeling lazy :P do this in little bits and slowly so you don't take too much off like I did
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/TrimmedShroud1.jpg" alt=""/>


I also put foam between the shroud and the radiator to 1. Stop the fins getting bent from the shroud and 2. To make sure the areas that are covered by the shroud get as much air as possible sucked threw the radiator.
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When bolting the shroud on, remember to take this clip (and the water level sensor) and put them on the Koyo. I didn't bother with the bottom clip as it wouldn't fit. Maybe if you hit it with a heat gun and stretched it the factory shroud would fit but I couldn't be fucked at the time.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/Shroudclipandlevelsensor.jpg" alt=""/>


It was then a case of dropping it in, filling the car with coolant, bleeding it and away she goes!
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/fc3s-infini/KoyoInstalled.jpg" alt=""/>

alex1206

iTrader: (3)

Would one be able to use longer bolts to secure the shroud to the original radiator bracket instead of zip-ties?
Also, I read that the intake tube would need to be notched to fit the radiator, can someone shed some light on this?

Thanks in advance!

SilHaro

iTrader: (2)

that writeup is spot on.

I have a koyo n-flow in my s5 turbo, and it doesn't exactly fit like oem. I used the stock hoses and they're a little out of alignment. The upper rad hose folds just a little, but it expands when the car is warm.

I think koyo expects the use of an e-fan, but I managed to fit the stock shroud with trimming. Just gotta make sure the fan clears the shroud.

I didn't have to bend any hardlines.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I got an s5 koyo in an S4 TII.I also used silicone rad hoses,and found that the top hose needs to be cut a touch in order to get that "bend" just right,so it doesn't kink up.
I also used Teflon tape and surrounded the hose outlet areas of the rad to make sure that the hoses don't leak at that point.