Anybody ever break this thing?
08-23-07, 07:51 AM
#26
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awesome! 
Is Permatex a better product than JB Weld or are they pretty comprable.
Im guessing since you installed everything there hasnt been any leaking from the housing?
Is Permatex a better product than JB Weld or are they pretty comprable.
Im guessing since you installed everything there hasnt been any leaking from the housing?
08-25-07, 03:54 AM
#27
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No, still didnt get a chance to put it all back together.
I'm still waiting for new crush washers and OMP gasket from my local dealership.
I was following very good a write up
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/tips-water-pump-replacement-documentation-writeup-485755/
about the water pump and or housing replacement. YES, you have to remove all that stuff.
The write up (and others) said to un-bolt the OMP. I saw four oil lines and thought it would be so much easier just to un-bolt those banjo bolts instead of having to replace a O-ring if I pulled the OMP.
WRONG ANSWER. I later found out the oil lines need a new 'crush washer and gasket' if loosened or removed.
So I started the reverse of disassembly anyway but my brain forgot some of the steps involved. Put the bottom pulley back together first instead of the water pump pulley first. So I had to take off the bottom pulley to get the top on then got the bolt holes messed up on the bottom and it was dark until I had the bottom pulley aligned.
The weather changed from almost cold and rainy to hot and oppressive so while the front of the engine is apart I thought a good time to take the alternator to my local parts store to have it checked for FREE.
I did have a bit of low voltage and was stepping through Arron Cakes tutorial weeks before I started the water housing project.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
(Which is one of the best write-ups I've ever read. Everyone should read this!
It covers many of Icemarks "Electrical Gremlins")
I fixed the grounds in the engine bay and defiantly saw an improvement but the car still had times of low voltage and a nasty sound in the stereo.
So, (lol, damn these posts get long) the tester at the parts store said my alternator was bad and had a diode(rectifier) failure. $100. for a new Alt.
"F#@k that" I thought remembering reading something about diode replacement in my Haynes manual.
Came home and read the procedure in the manual, looked like a two hour project but nothing I havnt done before. Looked up the price for replacement parts, $80. for the diode pack. WTF!
I researched more posts and found you can order the diodes separately from the dealership but, why not just replace the whole alt with a new one. The $100. alt says it's 'new' and lifetime warranty
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=11&PTSet=A
not remanufactured like $60. alts I found from other places.
Other parts like bushings and brushes can also fail or be worn so I'm going to get another free test (2nd option) at the other local parts store and no doubt buy a new alternator from store 1. Store 2 only offered 1 remanufactured alt.
LOL, I bought this car a year ago and am sure have doubled the sale price ($1800) by now. Oh well, at least I know I'm doing it right and have reliable and fast car......someday.
I know gluing that ear back on was WRONG but the engine is gonna puke in the next few years anyway. If sooner, I have some good new parts to add to my short block.
I also took the radiator out while everything was apart and had it cleaned and rodded. The rad shop guy said he was surprised it was still holding together. He said the bottom bolts were loose and it needed a new rubber gasket. $80. Total bill.
I'm also replacing all the stock hose clamps while I'm down there with good stainless clamps.
Maybe I’ll find a T-II before the motor pukes and un-load this heathen. lol
Then again I'm sure a lot of people in here would say "The party's just starting".
I'll write back sometime next week when I get my parts installed and tested.
Provided nothing else breaks until then.
Hope your repair isnt anything like this week from Hell.
I'm still waiting for new crush washers and OMP gasket from my local dealership.
I was following very good a write up
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/tips-water-pump-replacement-documentation-writeup-485755/
about the water pump and or housing replacement. YES, you have to remove all that stuff.
The write up (and others) said to un-bolt the OMP. I saw four oil lines and thought it would be so much easier just to un-bolt those banjo bolts instead of having to replace a O-ring if I pulled the OMP.
WRONG ANSWER. I later found out the oil lines need a new 'crush washer and gasket' if loosened or removed.
So I started the reverse of disassembly anyway but my brain forgot some of the steps involved. Put the bottom pulley back together first instead of the water pump pulley first. So I had to take off the bottom pulley to get the top on then got the bolt holes messed up on the bottom and it was dark until I had the bottom pulley aligned.
The weather changed from almost cold and rainy to hot and oppressive so while the front of the engine is apart I thought a good time to take the alternator to my local parts store to have it checked for FREE.
I did have a bit of low voltage and was stepping through Arron Cakes tutorial weeks before I started the water housing project.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
(Which is one of the best write-ups I've ever read. Everyone should read this!
It covers many of Icemarks "Electrical Gremlins")
I fixed the grounds in the engine bay and defiantly saw an improvement but the car still had times of low voltage and a nasty sound in the stereo.
So, (lol, damn these posts get long) the tester at the parts store said my alternator was bad and had a diode(rectifier) failure. $100. for a new Alt.
"F#@k that" I thought remembering reading something about diode replacement in my Haynes manual.
Came home and read the procedure in the manual, looked like a two hour project but nothing I havnt done before. Looked up the price for replacement parts, $80. for the diode pack. WTF!
I researched more posts and found you can order the diodes separately from the dealership but, why not just replace the whole alt with a new one. The $100. alt says it's 'new' and lifetime warranty
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=11&PTSet=A
not remanufactured like $60. alts I found from other places.
Other parts like bushings and brushes can also fail or be worn so I'm going to get another free test (2nd option) at the other local parts store and no doubt buy a new alternator from store 1. Store 2 only offered 1 remanufactured alt.
LOL, I bought this car a year ago and am sure have doubled the sale price ($1800) by now. Oh well, at least I know I'm doing it right and have reliable and fast car......someday.
I know gluing that ear back on was WRONG but the engine is gonna puke in the next few years anyway. If sooner, I have some good new parts to add to my short block.
I also took the radiator out while everything was apart and had it cleaned and rodded. The rad shop guy said he was surprised it was still holding together. He said the bottom bolts were loose and it needed a new rubber gasket. $80. Total bill.
I'm also replacing all the stock hose clamps while I'm down there with good stainless clamps.
Maybe I’ll find a T-II before the motor pukes and un-load this heathen. lol
Then again I'm sure a lot of people in here would say "The party's just starting".
I'll write back sometime next week when I get my parts installed and tested.
Provided nothing else breaks until then.
Hope your repair isnt anything like this week from Hell.
08-25-07, 06:41 AM
#28
Gah! That alternator is a P.O.S. I had one. Ask a mechanic in your area for a good local supplier of alternators. Y'know some "mom and pop" alternator-only shop that rebuilds alternators themselves or something and can't afford to tick off mechanics, etc. I mean, if people won't buy another alternator from Kraegan, oh well. Kraegan can screw them on something else. The alternator shop, OTOH, would be hosed if they sold bad products like partsamerica, etc. does. And that warranty doesn't mean anything except that they'll ship you another bad alternator if you remembered to save your receipt. Then they'll do a shoddy $0.05 job rebuilding your returned alt and send it off to some other poor slob. Nothing lost for them. Meanwhile you have to keep trying until you get an alt that lasts. Still dunno if my new alt will last, but I got a good recommendation and it's holding up so far. Worldwide alt lasted 2,000 miles, AutoLite alt lasted literally a week, P.O.'s newly installed alt lasted 8,000 miles. Oh, and no refunds on the worldwide alt, replacement only. So you're stuck in their scam after you buy one. I managed a refund through some effort and a couple employee mistakes that the store manager felt obliged to follow through on.
99.9% of alternators are remans regardless of what they say. Some are just better than others. Replacing the diodes might be better than getting a P.O.S. alternator, but you need a 200W soldering iron (10 times more power than your typical one) and a lot of time to get it open. People here say to just replace the alt.
99.9% of alternators are remans regardless of what they say. Some are just better than others. Replacing the diodes might be better than getting a P.O.S. alternator, but you need a 200W soldering iron (10 times more power than your typical one) and a lot of time to get it open. People here say to just replace the alt.
Last edited by ericgrau; 08-25-07 at 07:09 AM.
09-04-07, 09:33 AM
#32
It''s no big deal to do it properly by welding it with nickel welding rod. That is such a small area heat should not be a problem. Over the years I have welded lots of cast iron with good results. I have a large vise that I repaired 15 years ago and it is still holding up. Anything that has stress on it is not a good candidate for JB Weld or any similar product. Do it right the first time!
09-06-07, 03:43 AM
#33
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Update:
You should weld it properly if you have the resources to do so. I don’t.
Never heard of a Nickel rod being used but Don may be right.
I know my fix was cheap and is still holding with absolutely no leaks after 150+ miles.
My engine and body still are all original and have 104xxx miles so, I dont really care because I will replace - rebuild the engine when it pukes an dies.
That ear doesn’t seem to have much stress on it because of the other 3 studs and bolt connecting the water housing to the block.
Maybe that engineering guy could explain this a bit more.
BTW, the replacement Alternator from AdvanceAuto has been working fine.
I blame failure on it and other parts from the last few owners of the car.
All the stuff I'm repairing or replacing has been from previous cheap-*** repairs.
The machine still has electrical gremlins which I wont even mention, from the old owners removing the security system, stereo, antenna, steering wheel, and poorly re-soldering the circuit boards.
But anyway,
Connect METAL with METAL.
Do it right if you can.
You should weld it properly if you have the resources to do so. I don’t.
Never heard of a Nickel rod being used but Don may be right.
I know my fix was cheap and is still holding with absolutely no leaks after 150+ miles.
My engine and body still are all original and have 104xxx miles so, I dont really care because I will replace - rebuild the engine when it pukes an dies.
That ear doesn’t seem to have much stress on it because of the other 3 studs and bolt connecting the water housing to the block.
Maybe that engineering guy could explain this a bit more.
BTW, the replacement Alternator from AdvanceAuto has been working fine.
I blame failure on it and other parts from the last few owners of the car.
All the stuff I'm repairing or replacing has been from previous cheap-*** repairs.
The machine still has electrical gremlins which I wont even mention, from the old owners removing the security system, stereo, antenna, steering wheel, and poorly re-soldering the circuit boards.
But anyway,
Connect METAL with METAL.
Do it right if you can.
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