Swapped my dead alternator for a good used one and accidentally shorted the output wire to the alternator case. It blew the main fuse and once I fixed that the car wouldn't start.
I can tell I wasn't getting any fuel, as with my fuel pump disconnected the fuel pressure did not drop while cranking. I am also not getting any spark.

Ordered a new Rtek chip as it was probably damaged. Still nothing.

Is there a way to check the ECU to see if it is good? I fear I may have damaged the ECU.

Next question, if it is bad, anyone know of an N370 ECU for sale?


Thanks, Ben

 

Does the Main Relay click w/key to on? If not then check the 15 amp Engine fuse.

If the Black/Yellow wire at either of the coils has power w/key to on and the Black/White wire at the three wire Green check connector (other two wires are Yellow based) located near the leading coil has voltage w/key to on then the relay and its associated Engine fuse is good.

 

Lol. Does now. Had been checking all the fuses and dropped one. just so happened to be that one. Looked up the fuse box diagram, relay works now. Gonna have a friend jump it because my jumper box is dead and we'll see what happens.

 

Thanks Satch. Got it running.

 

So it runs, but it has issues. Didn't notice this at first but when you turn the key to on, you can hear the injectors clicking away non stop. Not sure if it's primary or secondary or both.
And before I noticed that I went for a short ride and if you put your foot down at all, it's hesitate and just sit there and choke out.
So my original question stands, any way to check the ecu? Or could this be a sensor issue?

 

Remove the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse and turn key to on and see if the clicking continues or not.

 

It's coming from injectors as well as the resistor relay up by the headlight. Gonna pull the intake and check to see which injectors it is.

 

No with the fuse removed the clicking stops. Pulled the intake. The clicking is from the primary injectors and the variable resistor up front by the headlight.

Tried to start it this morning, it started so I'm sure it was just flooded like crazy. But like i said when I'm driving if I go past about 1/4 throttle it chokes out. So I guess maybe my primary's aren't kicking in.

But that doesn't explain the injectors firing with the ignition on.

 

And your primary injectors are probably working overtime thus causing the bogging from too much fuel. And are you staying under 3800 rpm when the choking out occurs or higher than 3800 rpm?

EDIT: Since HAILERS pointed out your car is an S5, the clicking cannot possibly come from the Variable Resistor or Resistor Box, so as he suggests, the clicking must be coming from other source(s).

If the Fuel Pump Relay is the item clicking it could be bypassed by jumpering the Blue/Red wires in the plug to the Blue/Green wires. And you could just unplug the unit to isolate where this clicking is coming from. So if unplugged and key to on stops the clicking in that area then you know the source for at least some of the clicking.

 

Probably hearing the pulsation damper pulsing, not the fuel injectors.

There's nothing mechanical about the variable resistor to make a noise.

Series five don't have a variable reistor.

Fuel pump reistor relay is up front and that does have a relay that might be heard clicking.

 

Honestly I'm not sure as to the RPM at which I was having an issue. It was relatively low. Say under 5k. And, yeah that's what I meant the fuel pump resistor relay up front. It is both that as well as the primary injectors clicking.

 

And on my post, #8, meant the secondaries probably aren't kicking in.

 

Well then gain access to the relay up front and measure the voltage w/key to on on the Blue/Red wire as there should not be voltage, but it appears that there is or it should not click. You can also measure this voltage at the Circuit Opening Relay just under the dash and to the right of the steering wheel column. In this Yellow and Black relay there should be a Blue/Red wire on the top row far right position. And measure for voltage w/key to on.

 

They are both getting about .03 volts. However after unpluging and repluging the relay up front, neither the relay or the injectors are clicking in the on position.

 

That's a bit odd, but who's to complain. In the event that it occurs again you might want to bypass it.

 

I'm such a dumbass. RAWR. Forgot to put the EGI fuse back in before i tested the voltage. I'm just so stressed because it's my DD and I have to get back and forth to work that I keep overlooking minor details and causing more problems. About to go test the voltage again.

 

There are three wires on the fuel pump resistor relay plug that are blue/red. All three have 12 volts with the ignition to on.
Also the rack of relays in front of the radiator, the one farthest towards the drivers side is also clicking. Not sure what that relay is for. So that's that relay, the fuel pump resistor relay, and the primarys are all clicking.

 

Okay, so go the Circuit Opening Relay and check for voltage w/key to on on the Brown wire (far right bottom row). There should be 12 volts on this wire. If you find you have ground voltage then check the fuel check connector and make sure it is not jumpered. And also make sure the door flap to the AFM is closed and not open when the engine is off.

 

There is about 2 volts on the brown wire. Fuel check connector is not jumpered and AFM is closed.

 

and double check that your battery connections are tight.

sounds like a ground issue throughout the car. there is no signal for the injectors to pulse so whatever is causing it is a cyclic ground issue due to a bad ground or lack of voltage to the relays through the ignition.

 

There are two possibilties for there to be ground voltage on the Brown wire. Either the wire is grounded out somewhere or the ECU is fudged and unfortunately the latter seems more likely. You can try doing a resistance check on the Brown wire either from the check connector to the Brown wire at the Circuit Opening Relay. Or from pin 3K at the ECU to the Brown wire at the relay and this is to be done with no key in the ignition on both resistance checks. And not to rub it in but the lesson learned here is when messing w/the electrical system disconnecting the negative battery cable removes any chance of damaging things!

EDIT: Remove the plug from the Circuit Opening Relay and check for voltage once again on the Brown wire w/key to on. If it still has low voltage,which it should not, then the relay cannot possibly be causing the wire to be grounding out when it should not.

 

Since there is a ground on the Brown wire coming from pin 3k at the ECU when it should have 12 volts w/key to on it "appears" that the ECU is putting the ground on this wire when it should only be doing so w/the car running and not just key to on, engine not running. If the AFM flapper were open that would trick the S5 ECU into thinking the car was running and therefor place a ground on the Brown wire. The fuel check connector being grounded would be a possibility, as well as the Brown wire being grounded out by accident due to the wire casing being damaged and the wire contacting metal. The only other cause is the ECU is damaged.

 

i'd lean more towards the ECU fried.

but why would it still start and run? just seems to me that circuit is lacking solid amperage through either ground or power. even though resistance and volatage measurement may seem sufficient it doesn't mean that there is actually enough flowing to keep the circuit operational.

but why would it occur only after grounding the wire? that is where my thinking that something in the main system got jarred loose or burned up contact.

you can sometimes see the same effects when voltage gets extremely low and relays begin to click repetatively.

 

Yeah I kinda figured the ecu was bad. But thanks for helping me troubleshoot guys. And I did disconnect the negative. It's just sometimes I rush into things and don't really think it through. The alternator I got was missing the plastic spacer for the ouput wire and without thinkinng I was like oh this nut will work. Bad idea. Didn't think about the fact it would ground to the alternator housing. That's where all my troubles came from.

 

It's a bit of a head scratcher but the ECU appears to think the car is running when the key is just to on. If the ECU is tricked into thinking the engine is running when it actually isn't then the Light Green wires that pulse a ground to the primary injectors would be doing just that which would explain why the primaries are clicking w/just key to on. I would also bet that if the TPS were disconnected and the Boost sensor vacuum hose disconnected and capped, thus producing a load affect, that the secondaries would also click.