Any Alternatives to dowel pinning?
05-11-05, 12:20 PM
#26
BTW, for the record, those heavy duty oil pans or oil pan baffles will yeild ZERO strengthing in the upper dowl oil gally area that these tend to crack. For some reason, some fools think theres a "twisting" force that cracks these, when its a rotor housing "expanding" force that actually breaks/cracks these end plates from EXTREME combustion pressures that occur during pre-ignition AKA: detonation.
Heres another option for ya... #5, do a oil by-pass Mod in this region (oil pedistal). that way when/if it cracks again, there will be no oil leaks and no need to tear apart the engine if it cracks. Do a search.. its in here.
~Mike........
Heres another option for ya... #5, do a oil by-pass Mod in this region (oil pedistal). that way when/if it cracks again, there will be no oil leaks and no need to tear apart the engine if it cracks. Do a search.. its in here.
~Mike........
05-11-05, 05:54 PM
#27
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For those of you that made actually made an attempt at answering my question--thanks--now I've got a few things to research and figure out concerning alternatives to dowel pinning.
For those of you who've turned this into a discussion about tuning you really don't know what my setup is/will be, so how can you even attempt to give advice concerning what will work and what will not work. My sig is a year old, so if your statements are at all based on that-you're most likely mistaken.
Also, I've got my engine fully apart, so obviously I'll be taking the opportunity to make some changes and mods which means that my setup will be different when I put it back on the road. So your advice, though appreciated is misplaced.
..climbing onto soapbox ..
I find it funny that some are real quick to point the finger at 'proper tuning'. It seems that most people think that 'proper tuning' is simply throwing gobs of fuel at the problem, spend a G or 3 on a big shiny fmic and fit in with the rest of the rice crowd. Not that there's anything wrong with that, if that's your thing--but are you doing it and preaching it because you did your own investigation and you know it works best for your situation or because everyone else is preaching it/doing it? Maybe you should be driving a Mustang or a Camaro-that way you can fit in with the crowd and not have to preach about boost/tuning issues.
For the record, I didn't tear the engine apart because of cracked dowels and oil leaking. I just happened to notice the hairline crack as I was putting it back together. I've never had any oil leaking or detonation or knock problems. I'm rebuilding because the guy who rebuilt it last time pinched the water seals.
Believe it or not, there actually are people that run these cars at hi boost without firehose sized injectors with few if any reliability issues. Yeah, I know that's a bitter pill to swallow, but the common way of doing things isn't always the best way to do things-and it DEFINITELY ain't the ONLY way to do things. Anyone that tells you that is trying to sell you fuel mods.
RacerXtreme7 actually said 'I'll bet your making the same power as you did at 18 and 15 psi'. I've seen some dumb posts before, but this one pretty much takes the cake. What, did this guy flunk physics? Let's forget the fact that he doesn't know what size my turbine or compressor is--there are like a gazillion possible hybrid turbo combinations and a million metal fabricators out there that'll make it work for you.
..lemme spread it around a little bit.
Bukwild says 'I think you will get most people to agree why you cracked the block is you are running 550/720 combo at 18lbs of boost.' When did I ask why I cracked the block?
YearsOfDecay says he has trouble believing that my intake temps are 35C at 18 lbs of boost without an FMIC. When did I say that I don't have an FMIC?
..whatever.
But I will say that this discussion has been *mildly* informative and *hugely* entertaining.
..signing off. Sorry for the long post.
And thanks again to the few who actually answered my question.
For those of you who've turned this into a discussion about tuning you really don't know what my setup is/will be, so how can you even attempt to give advice concerning what will work and what will not work. My sig is a year old, so if your statements are at all based on that-you're most likely mistaken.
Also, I've got my engine fully apart, so obviously I'll be taking the opportunity to make some changes and mods which means that my setup will be different when I put it back on the road. So your advice, though appreciated is misplaced.
..climbing onto soapbox ..
I find it funny that some are real quick to point the finger at 'proper tuning'. It seems that most people think that 'proper tuning' is simply throwing gobs of fuel at the problem, spend a G or 3 on a big shiny fmic and fit in with the rest of the rice crowd. Not that there's anything wrong with that, if that's your thing--but are you doing it and preaching it because you did your own investigation and you know it works best for your situation or because everyone else is preaching it/doing it? Maybe you should be driving a Mustang or a Camaro-that way you can fit in with the crowd and not have to preach about boost/tuning issues.
For the record, I didn't tear the engine apart because of cracked dowels and oil leaking. I just happened to notice the hairline crack as I was putting it back together. I've never had any oil leaking or detonation or knock problems. I'm rebuilding because the guy who rebuilt it last time pinched the water seals.
Believe it or not, there actually are people that run these cars at hi boost without firehose sized injectors with few if any reliability issues. Yeah, I know that's a bitter pill to swallow, but the common way of doing things isn't always the best way to do things-and it DEFINITELY ain't the ONLY way to do things. Anyone that tells you that is trying to sell you fuel mods.
RacerXtreme7 actually said 'I'll bet your making the same power as you did at 18 and 15 psi'. I've seen some dumb posts before, but this one pretty much takes the cake. What, did this guy flunk physics? Let's forget the fact that he doesn't know what size my turbine or compressor is--there are like a gazillion possible hybrid turbo combinations and a million metal fabricators out there that'll make it work for you.
..lemme spread it around a little bit.
Bukwild says 'I think you will get most people to agree why you cracked the block is you are running 550/720 combo at 18lbs of boost.' When did I ask why I cracked the block?
YearsOfDecay says he has trouble believing that my intake temps are 35C at 18 lbs of boost without an FMIC. When did I say that I don't have an FMIC?
..whatever.
But I will say that this discussion has been *mildly* informative and *hugely* entertaining.
..signing off. Sorry for the long post.
And thanks again to the few who actually answered my question.
05-11-05, 06:17 PM
#28
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You dont seem to get it.. Your case is fairly common.. The last time i saw this was because of timming..
How many degrees advance are you running at say 15 Psi?
This was most definatly caused from tuning.. Either to little fuel or too much timming.
People see that you may be looking at the wrong problem and are trying to help. Many people have made 400-500rwhp without dowl pinning the S5 block.
Now. if you plan on making over 400rwhp at some point, i would look into dowl pining your engine. But also make sure you check out your fuel and timming as dowl pins alone will not save your next motor.
I think the extreme stud kit may be a good option.. also a plate under the oil pan may help alot as well.
-Zach
How many degrees advance are you running at say 15 Psi?
This was most definatly caused from tuning.. Either to little fuel or too much timming.
People see that you may be looking at the wrong problem and are trying to help. Many people have made 400-500rwhp without dowl pinning the S5 block.
Now. if you plan on making over 400rwhp at some point, i would look into dowl pining your engine. But also make sure you check out your fuel and timming as dowl pins alone will not save your next motor.
I think the extreme stud kit may be a good option.. also a plate under the oil pan may help alot as well.
-Zach
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