looks like a lift and a poll jack is about all ill need to remove the motor mount. but as far as tips or trick you guys have? i got a cork type gasket from advanced autoparts so do i need to use some silicone? what kind is best? id like to do this right the first time.

 

Don't use a gasket. Use "The Right Stuff" grey gasket maker.

You didn't search, did you?

 

Yes.

 

Defiantly use right stuff, dont cheap out on black silicone, right stuff is in a league of its own

 

I will heed your advice all, thank you very much.

 

Ultra Black RTV works great too - Ultra Black is their maximum oil resistance RTV.

 

I second derekcat

 

Curious... Someone gave me a pineapple racing oil pan baffle and some gaskets... should I instead put the "right stuff" on both sides, and just make a "right stuff" sandwich?

 

I just used the sealant, no gasket.

If sealant was used before, I'd recommend chasing the threads in the block to ensure they aren't clogged up. Some of the holes are blind and if filled with goop, you can't tighten the bolts properly.

 

Alight then, great info and i thank you for you input everyone. there is nothing worse than having to go back and try again. alright so either the black silicone or the right stuff. ive used right stuff in the past with great success as well as the black rtv so whatever i get my hands on ill use. dude cracked me up with that old lady pic hahaha

 

I'm pretty sure you just use the o-ring. If you don't have it, give Pineapple a call and I'm sure Rob can help you out.


apsolus >> Yep! Just make sure the pan and the bottom of the block are nice and clean, either one will probably work fine, I've just never used the Right Stuff, and had good luck with Ultra Black.
hehe, I'm glad you liked the pict! The Photoshopping turned out very well XD

 

so you made that ****?? lol nice man.

 

I did some searching... Hmm.. Thought the person told me it was a pineapple racing product... but this actually looks like it.

RX7 1986-1992: Oil System: Oil Baffle Plate - 86-92 RX-7 13B All -

They recommend two gaskets...

 

I've used HondaBond with great results as well.

 

I've used factory mercedes benz, honda, subaru and they all work good. Why not put a baffle plate already while you have the pan out. Also clean the oil pickup tube and replace seal. Like clokker said make sure you clean the thread holes befor installing to prevent stripping.

 

I've had great luck with Permatex Ultra Grey as well. I didn't have to let it cure for a few minutes before tightening. Never went back to gaskets after that.

 

is the pickuptube oring readily available or am i gonna have to send out a search party?

 

The pickup tube is a paper gasket. Worst case is, get yourself some gasket paper and spend 10 minutes cutting it out. I don't agree that it should automatically be replaced though. No reason to bother unless there is an issue.

A baffle plate isn't really required either unless the car is seeing high G corner load. Installing one requires twice the work as just the pan alone, and 4 times the amount of sealant, twice the gaskets, and some cursing as you are trying to hold up both the pan and plate underneath the car.

As to the original question, I've always used a pan gasket. A skim coat of the sealant of your choice on each side, torque down just enough to squeeze some sealant, then come back an hour later and torque to 10 ft-lbs. For years I used Permatex Ultra Copper without a single leak, but lately I've been using Permatex Ultra Grey after being impressed with how well it handles oils and how stiff it is compared to the Copper. Never had a leak when using a gasket and sealant.

Most important is to make sure the oil pan flange is straight. The bolts like to dimple the holes, so go over the whole flange with a hammer and dolly to straighten it out first.

 

The Right Stuff is some incredible impressive stuff. A bit of advice though, Using as the sealant around dowels on housings or the legs can lead to a lot of frustration upon removal. Anything with dowels actually. It holds and seals so well that you have to hammer apart.

 

Had this happen to me on an SR20DET. It was very frustrating to get the oil pan off as I was nearly bending it and, being an SR, it's not the easiest thing in the world getting another oil pan for it... So, be easy with the good stuff. As the saying goes, a little goes a long way.

 

Yea don't sealant happy! I do 1 to 2mm bead! Also make sure the pan is nice n straight before installing. And pls torque the bolts..... Don't over tighten.

 

Well i did buy the oil pan gasket anyway. so i guess ill just take everyones advice using the gasket and the sealant. ok the pickup tube uses a paper gasket, ill take a look and see if its in good shape. car has been apart now for a week in my garage doing some under the intake work so when i get it running again ill take it to my shop and finish up with the oil pan. thanks for helping me out everyone!

 

Grey stuff is technically formed for high torque situations.

I use the ultra black, not regular black.

Definitely clean everything thoroughly with alcohol.
Torque half way and wait an hour or more and then finish torquing.

 

Best thing I did was get the stud kit for the oil pan from Moroso. Im sure if you have a decent hardware store in town you could source the metric studs yourself. It made putting the pan back on with all the sealant really easy.

 

If you have the extra coin, a Banzai Racing oil pan brace wouldn't hurt either.