so my friend did a jdm turbo swap into my 1991 and im pretty sure everything is in order, but now its at my house and ive all all the parts (minus a cat-back, and havent installed the walbro 255 yet) in the car but it wont start unless my dad sprays starter fluid into the MAF, and i HAVE to give it gas otherwise it just dies. you guys have any idea what it could be?
please please please help me out!!!

EDIT: i am also using the jdm ecu, it seems to be firing fine but being the only person i know who drives a rx7, its hard to be positive. my dad says when the engine is running it seems to be running flat

 

You're problem is fuel related if it's starting with starter fluid. I ran into the same problem recently, check out my thread see if it helps https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/car-wont-start-came-conclusion-how-do-i-fix-934811/

 

That jdm ecu may be your problem. What's the model number? Starts with an N.

 

it was driven to my house (about 20 miles) on the stock n/a ecu, when it showed up it wasnt running well but it was running, we found that a small plug which i believe was the leading coil plug wasnt connected when it arrived but it juts needed to be plugged back in and thats why i think it was running like garbage.
so i dont think its a fuel line problem..
side note, it had been sitting in my driveway for about 3 months.

 

yeah im beginning to think its the jdm ecu, the numbers were scratched off the actual ecu but it came with the mystical black box thing with N374 on it

 

so i just talked to an employee at atkrins rotary on the phone, he says that because i did a JDM turbo swap i need to do a stand alone unless ALL the electronics in my car are also JDM.
is there any truth to this?

 

The employee at Atkins is "a silly little girl" imho.

 

Do you have good fuel pressure? Did you mess with the timing at all?

 

how can i check my fuel pressure? i didnt do the swap, my friend did, but i dont think he would have adjusted the timing.

 

hmmm... never heard of a N374 before, basically there is nothing stateside that matches up with that ECU.

Do you have to hold the car at WOT to get is starting? if only partial throttle, you may just need to adjust the idle set screw. After that I'd check the fuel system. If you let a vehicle sit for more than 3 weeks the fuel will be starting to go bad. At 3 months without stabilizer you'll need to drain the entire tank, purge the fuel system, and it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter too.

 

the n374 is the japanese ecu, n370 is the us version.
thank you bomberman, i told my dad that fuel goes bad after about 3 months (from what i have been told) he just said "no it should last longer than that" i didnt bother to argue.
i dont have to hold it at WOT, but it takes 10 seconds (not completely sure how long, just a random number, i know its less than 30 seconds) before my revs even begin to react to me pressing on the accelerator. ive never driven an rx7 but it feel like im pressing about half way down on the throttle.
where exactly is the idle screw? is it dangerous to mess with it?

 

There are many threads on this forum discussing the use of the N374 on turbo engine swaps.

Most of the negative comments on the use of the N374 have to do with the engine only running on one rotor due to the use of the N374. Using a stk USA ECU results in both rotors firing according to them. I believe it's the use of the non USA EM harness that causes that if memory serves.

Do an Advanced Search on N374 ECU's on this forum if you think you might be only running on one rotor.

As an aside..............When the key is HELD to START, the BAC goes and stays at full open to aid in starting. After the key is returned to ON from start, the BAC goes back to its normal duty cycle. There should be no need to mess with the idle STOP screw if it has not already been messed with.

Seems to many of us, that if you do a series four or five turbo engine swap into a non turbo car...................it's easier to use the stock non turbo EM harness and not use the right hand drive JDM EM harness.

The afm, boost sensor, IAT sensor etc .........are the same for JDM and USA engines.

 

thank you hailers, im going to buy a n370 ecu and see how it feels when i put it in. if i have any problems ill be posting it here in the next few days. thank you fellas.

 

just so eveybody knows it was indeed the ECU, my car runs now but every time i start it up i need to idle it with my foot just until its a little warm and then it does fine. any idea why this might be? (that tube that runs from where ever into the cat isnt bolted on yet so i think its that)
also, on the ecu i have a green/yellow wire that is cut, every time i touch the two ends together i can hear a clicking in my engine bay..any idea what it could be?

 

What pin does the G/Y wire run to? If it's pin 1H (fires the coil) it is for the leading coil and if it runs to pin 2H then it is for the Boost sensor.

 

Those N374 are always seem to be the problem with Jspec swaps.

If you have to manually idle the car on cold start, I would look to see if you have your idle set correctly and your BAC is operating correctly. Once warm, what RPM does your car idle at? Does it "hunt" idle (bounces up and down)?

 

@satch: not sure what the green/yellow wire is but when i touched them together with the engine running my check engine turned off...im just gonna solder it together and be content.
@jjcobm: it idles fine after its warm, if i dont idle it for more than a minute itll kinda bog out but not completely die. it idles at 200rpm-ish i think, i know its no more than 5

 

deleted

 

you have some small vacuum leaks still or a cracked TID. grab a can of carb cleaner and spray around the engine until you see the engine change in tone while spraying in certain areas.

 

Bad/non functional BAC.

If you can get it to idle.............while it idles pull the electrical plug off the BAC. If the engine still idles the same........BAC is non functional. Look for pushed back pins/sockets inside the BAC electrical plug.

 

If you can't adjust your idle through your BAC its most likely clogged or bad. Test per FSM.

 

im not positive what the BAC is but i believe its the thing directly right of the TMIC, i tried pulling out the plug after it idled at 7-800 and nothing happened.
is it hard to fix the BAC? or unclog it as jjcobm suggested?
also i dont have a FSM, i imagine a turbo FSM would make sense to own but should i get a turbo and N/A seeing as i swapped into a N/A?

 

You want an FSM- you got an FSM.

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page...nual#secondgen