that one guy300

i have this exact same problem.... did you ever fix this problem?... i have a feeling the fuel injectors are plugged , the primarys seem to run fine on mine, until i try to accelerate past 3800 rpm its like the secondarys dont try to open, ... they might, but they could be clogged, i saw a volume test on the manual... i was thinking that might lead me to other areas....

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Did you check all the grounds?
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

no sadly I have not been able to determine what my problem is. For my car at least I believe it is an electrical issue, but i would start by making sure your secondaries are plugged in (the clips break easily) and then make sure your ECU ground is solid while you're under your intake manifold.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Check the ground on the 2nd rotor hounsing under the UIM. On the N/A cars you just pull off the mounting bracket on the drivers side of the car that has the solenoid on it. two bolts go to the UIM, and 1 attaches it to therotor housing. The ground is on that rotor housing bolt, someimes it loosens up, or your wire gets shitty. Clean it up and if you want run a wire from the battery ground straight to there.

that one guy300

i have decided, i am going to attempt tp re ground the ecu... as it seems, it will not be hard, i will be running a wire from the regular ground at the ecu, to the body of the vehicle, and splice it to the engine also, ill report back with results, i did reground my battery, and i did feel an improvement, not enough tho.

that one guy300

i cannot find in the manual, the exact location of the ground terminals... does anyone know which terminals are the ground for the cpu? i hear they are 3g and 3a in the emissions harness, but the pictures i find are not of the connector that goes into the ecu, ill still check it out, but i dont want to go chopping into wires that im not supposed to

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

There are already two battery grounds. Ones one the shock tower the other on the starter.


check the grounds in aaroncakes guide I posted above.

The grounds are changed over time most likely. People tend to add random and useless wires for some reason. The guide shows the most common grounds and how to properly ground them.

that one guy300

i dont think you understand... i dont want to remove the intake to get to one bolt, i am going to run a new wire from the ecu, spliceing into the circuit, and run that new wire to a new ground probably on the engine, and another on the body of the vehicle, as you probably know, electricity take the shortest route to ground, if i give this ground more choices, it may perform better

Rextasee

i had this problem once....

tried for a week every different fix.

nothing worked until i warmed the car up and tried revving it (past 3800 when it wouldnt) and i saw my tps plunger looked short. turned out it was the plunger sticking and not fully extending when it was warmed up.
and another one with this problem that turned out the secondaries were sticking.

that one guy300

how did you fix the secondaries?

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you’re going to make another ground from the ECU right? You said that(sorry i posted from my phone at the doctors then was rudely interrupted.. lol) when you reground the battery it felt better. All I’m saying is the two battery grounds might be rusted and in fact probably are (mine was). I do have an S5 I’m not sure if the ground is in the same spot in a S4 (probably is). That spot is prone to excessive kick up from the tires over time. It only takes 10 minutes to replace the bolt, sand the connector, sand the contact point then white grease the hell out of it. While doing the grounds might as well check it, no?

cendo54

iTrader: (2)

did you re-check the plugs and wires? just wondering if it could be something simple.

that one guy300

so far, since i have gotten it to my house.. i have put a fuel pump in, with both filters. after that i put in a clutch master cylinder and slave. then i replaced the spark plugs and wires... after that i attempted to reground all grounds under hood... tomarrow, i am goin to try to ground the ecu, if that doesn't work i am lost... it does need an alternator, and the tach doesn't work, hopefully it works after i ground the ecu.... i checked out the inside of the ecu, and i found a burn mark around one of the resistors... i went and found another ecu and tried it to find out my car runs at 3000 rpms all the time with that computer, so i opened it up, and found a different circuit burnt it that one, so i am on the quest for another ecu, i know for a fact all things i have done to this are exactly as calls for... also this vehicle runs Great up to 3800 rpm, but if attempting to accelerate quickly it falls on its face at 3800rpm... but if i barely touch the gas, it will go all the way to redline. anytime above 3800rpm if i were to push the pedal more than 10-20% it just falls on its face... sorry about the long post

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

The tach doesn’t work? Check your coil packs, if the trailing doesn’t work (tach runs off the trailing) maybe the leading doesn’t work too. Make sure the coils are securely screwed in because they ground thru the bracket.

Your ECU was burned? Where, post pictures and compare to the ones here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=Ryan123

No matter if it is or isn’t the same burn mark, check the codes anyway. Is the Check engine light on?

I would probe the ECU according to the FMS. Probe the OMP and match it with the FMS

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

how do you check the ECU codes?

Rextasee

the 2nd gen FAQ is a wonderful thing... its in there and i think on fc3spro.com too. in tech sections and how tos

Rextasee

also someone else had this problem turned out it was alternator output wire frayed/bad connection