Another Oil Thread, YAY!!!
#1
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Another Oil Thread, YAY!!!
Just a quick couple of questions about oil!
1st Q
I was wondering if anyone has used Royal Purple in their n/a. (which weight?)
I was reading up on the oils people use, and i haven't seen anyone actually mention this as being one of them. It is mentioned in the FAQ as a synthetic that can be used, so just want some peoples opinions of it!
2nd Q
Castrol GTX vs Castrol GTX High Mileage?
Is there a substantial difference between the two?(my engine has 110k miles)
Can the High Mileage be used in rotary's safely?
3rd Q
10w30 vs 20w50?
which is better to run in a n/a thats bone stock?
I live in minnesota, and dont usually drive my car past fall. The temp here jumps up and down more than the girls on baywatch:/
thanks for any help!
1st Q
I was wondering if anyone has used Royal Purple in their n/a. (which weight?)
I was reading up on the oils people use, and i haven't seen anyone actually mention this as being one of them. It is mentioned in the FAQ as a synthetic that can be used, so just want some peoples opinions of it!
2nd Q
Castrol GTX vs Castrol GTX High Mileage?
Is there a substantial difference between the two?(my engine has 110k miles)
Can the High Mileage be used in rotary's safely?
3rd Q
10w30 vs 20w50?
which is better to run in a n/a thats bone stock?
I live in minnesota, and dont usually drive my car past fall. The temp here jumps up and down more than the girls on baywatch:/
thanks for any help!
#5
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Only oils I would sugest to use are.
RP, Mobil 1, Red line, Elf, Theres one more but I cant remember it.
I livei n FL so a heavy waight is more suitable I run RP 20W50 In your area someone around there could probly direct you bettor then me but if I took a guess um 5W40
RP, Mobil 1, Red line, Elf, Theres one more but I cant remember it.
I livei n FL so a heavy waight is more suitable I run RP 20W50 In your area someone around there could probly direct you bettor then me but if I took a guess um 5W40
#7
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
royal purple make you shift mad qwik yo...
normal castrol mineral is fine...
normal castrol mineral is fine...
sweet yo.....thIZANKs for the pointers yo!
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How the hell is oil going to make you shift "mad qwik"?
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#9
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I don't accept "it just does" as the reasoning behind his statement. Can you explain how it makes you "shift faster"? The oil is in the engine, not in the transmission. The transmission shifts, not the engine. So how the hell does engine oil make you "shift faster"?
#12
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Maybe they mean't that with really really expensive oil, you will be really gentle on your car and not drive real hard. Cuz everone that doesn't premix know that the higher the rpm's, the more oil is injected by the omp(mop) to the housing. And it sux havin to buy tons of expensive oil all the time. My 2% of $1.
By the way, since I have an S5 and it's a PITA to dissable the omp from injecting oil into my hounsings, and I dont wanna make my own reservior with adapter yet, should I still premix, even though I'm not really eliminating the use of crankcase oil still being injected by the omp? I know I'll get better lubrication and cleaner burns with 2stoke premix, but is that too much oil? ie. premix and regular injection?
By the way, since I have an S5 and it's a PITA to dissable the omp from injecting oil into my hounsings, and I dont wanna make my own reservior with adapter yet, should I still premix, even though I'm not really eliminating the use of crankcase oil still being injected by the omp? I know I'll get better lubrication and cleaner burns with 2stoke premix, but is that too much oil? ie. premix and regular injection?
#13
Just a quick note about high mileage oils. DO NOT USE them unless you need to. High mileage oils contain seal swelling additives and once you go to a high mileage oil, you shouldn't go back to a non-high mileage oil. I would only use a high mileage oil if I had significant oil consumption issues or seeping seals.
As for synthetic or nonsynthetic oil, synthetic are not worth it since you can't take advantage of their main benefit-extended oil change intervals. A decent Group III base oil-not a try synthetic but a hydrocracked oil like ones found in Castrol Syntec or Mobil 7500 or Rotella T should be sufficient and not set you back too much money. True synethics such as Royal Purple, Mobil1 etc..which are PAO and Ester based (group IV and group V basestocks respectively) are not cost effective unless you are racing.
As for synthetic or nonsynthetic oil, synthetic are not worth it since you can't take advantage of their main benefit-extended oil change intervals. A decent Group III base oil-not a try synthetic but a hydrocracked oil like ones found in Castrol Syntec or Mobil 7500 or Rotella T should be sufficient and not set you back too much money. True synethics such as Royal Purple, Mobil1 etc..which are PAO and Ester based (group IV and group V basestocks respectively) are not cost effective unless you are racing.
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