Its a pretty formed hose, you could get a length of hose I guess. I would highly recommend against it for what its worth. It comes out of the block and makes a 90 up, then comes up and makes another couple formed bends into the heater core hose... I just couldn't see it not having flow issues without putting springs of some sort inside to keep it from collapsing.

For a hose that is maybe $20 at most from the dealer.

Im not saying you will do it wrong by using the length of hose, but be DAMN sure its not going to have flow issues from being closed off in a bend. Or I hope you have a fund for a rebuild. ;(

 

http://mazdatrix.com/bhose2.htm

Get em here...~$31

 

but 99.9% of the people here do not

I have almost never said that... better get a clue before putting words in someones mouth.

Now I do suggest that the FAQ for FC and other sticky threads be read...

 

I'm glad you pointed me there, to refresh myself. Now I think we have some conflicting recommendations.


So, am I supposed to change the PD at 60K or 100K??? Maybe you should go back and read the FAQ for FC. Check what you recommeded and THEN, write up another thread that DOESNT contradict what you have already recommended.

Don't get me wrong, this is good info for someone who has never experienced the leak itself, but if its in the sticky already...why repost it. Why not just make a whole new thread that says "Go read the sticky again".

 

, no I do not thing you are understanding the answer correctly.

It says to do a 60K tune up, and if the car has more than 100K miles or 10 years replace the PD.

Seems pretty clear and very straightforward, so I am not sure where you are mis-understanding it

Because the swollen hose is not covered in the FAQ for FC, and I felt members here could benifit from it when I had a good set for pictures.

Much like the radio, if you don't like it, change the channel instead of being some silly fundimentalist complaining about the issue. Otherwise people will just think you a bonehead.

 

Um I realy think IceMark was just trying to give us a friendly reminderd and a detail exsplanation of a common failure. Seeing as there is a good bit of newcomers recently and God knows most people dont allways breez through the FAQ or when they do remember evry bit of it. Think of it as a fresh reminder to keep you from being stranded and a bit or knowledge of what to look for.

 

Tip. Everyone knows how to change oil, right. Thats why I didn't read a key fact in the manual. Your supposed to punch a hole in the top of the filter before you remove it to let the oil drain out to the oil pan before you remove it. After I read that I couldn't believe I overlooked such a simple point.

 

I'll do a one up on that. Anyone who changes this hose will need a dealer replacement hose at a cost of about $30-35. Instead, go to your local hotrod shop and pick up 2-3 feet of 12AN SS braided hose at a cost of about $9/ft. This stuff doesnt bend very easily so you might have to reroute it slightly, but it WILL work. And the hose will NEVER break, it will outlast your car.

I have ever coolant hose on my FD, other than the radiator hoses themselves, done in SS braided line, and it cost me less than $100 for it all. IT's all about eliminating weak points.

New stock replacement parts are well and fine, but with mazda's pricing, anytime you can get a racing/upgraded part for the same cost or less, there's no downside.

 

That was a good idea Wayne, not only for this application either. =)

--Gary