Another Manditory 100K mile fix (just like a PD)
#1
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 20
From: Rohnert Park CA
Another Manditory 100K mile fix (just like a PD)
Here is another fix that should be manditory to do every 100K miles (just like a PD replacement).
How many times have you (or your mechanic) spilled a little oil when filling/addding oil to your car?
How many times have you (or your mechanic) spilled some oil when changing an oil filter?
Well in either case, the oil drips onto a hose for the heater just below the oil fill/filter area. This hose runs from the heater to the block just under the filter area, and next to the rear rotor spark plugs.
After a while this hose becomes swollen with the oil drops (even if you clean it off after dropping oil on it). When the hose gets swollen enough, it bursts.
Note the older hose on the left. It still looks clean and perfect from the outside, but looking at it you can see how much more swollen and ready to burst, when compared to the new hose on the right.
The old hose here has only 70K miles on it, but oil has seeped in and wasted it.
Loose this hose while driving and you loose your motor as all the coolant dumps to the ground.
How many times have you (or your mechanic) spilled a little oil when filling/addding oil to your car?
How many times have you (or your mechanic) spilled some oil when changing an oil filter?
Well in either case, the oil drips onto a hose for the heater just below the oil fill/filter area. This hose runs from the heater to the block just under the filter area, and next to the rear rotor spark plugs.
After a while this hose becomes swollen with the oil drops (even if you clean it off after dropping oil on it). When the hose gets swollen enough, it bursts.
Note the older hose on the left. It still looks clean and perfect from the outside, but looking at it you can see how much more swollen and ready to burst, when compared to the new hose on the right.
The old hose here has only 70K miles on it, but oil has seeped in and wasted it.
Loose this hose while driving and you loose your motor as all the coolant dumps to the ground.
#4
already broke on me once few years back while driving with guys from Atlanta, on the road fix (if there is other car which u could get somewhere to store get hose and clamps and new coolant
#5
Originally posted by hIGGI
already broke on me once few years back while driving with guys from Atlanta, on the road fix (if there is other car which u could get somewhere to store get hose and clamps and new coolant
already broke on me once few years back while driving with guys from Atlanta, on the road fix (if there is other car which u could get somewhere to store get hose and clamps and new coolant
#6
Already knew about that one from first hand experience.
The thing sprung a leak luckily as I got off the highway. The car hit H for a second and I shut her down.
Just one of the suspect in my eventual coolant seal rupture.
Just stop by the Mazda dealer ship and tell them you need the engine to Firewall coolant line which is on the drivers side.
I plan to put some wire loom over mine to help deter oil from getting on it. I also do not fill up the oil filter with some oil when installing. Stupid downward filter
I think this is more of a problem with NA's over TII's since the oil tube is a straight dropdown and is more likely to spill when filling up.
My TII engine is so damn easy. A blind midget with parkinsons(Sp?) could pour it in without spilling
The thing sprung a leak luckily as I got off the highway. The car hit H for a second and I shut her down.
Just one of the suspect in my eventual coolant seal rupture.
Just stop by the Mazda dealer ship and tell them you need the engine to Firewall coolant line which is on the drivers side.
I plan to put some wire loom over mine to help deter oil from getting on it. I also do not fill up the oil filter with some oil when installing. Stupid downward filter
I think this is more of a problem with NA's over TII's since the oil tube is a straight dropdown and is more likely to spill when filling up.
My TII engine is so damn easy. A blind midget with parkinsons(Sp?) could pour it in without spilling
#7
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 20
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by Digi7ech
I think this is more of a problem with NA's over TII's since the oil tube is a straight dropdown and is more likely to spill when filling up.
My TII engine is so damn easy. A blind midget with parkinsons(Sp?) could pour it in without spilling
I think this is more of a problem with NA's over TII's since the oil tube is a straight dropdown and is more likely to spill when filling up.
My TII engine is so damn easy. A blind midget with parkinsons(Sp?) could pour it in without spilling
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#10
Thread Starter
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 20
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by vaughnc
I though the FSM says all coolant hoses should be changed every 30/50K miles ?
I though the FSM says all coolant hoses should be changed every 30/50K miles ?
#12
Originally posted by Icemark
yeah spilling while filling is more a non turbo thing, but a leaking oil filter stand, or removing the oil filter without popping a hole in it and it's pretty easy to spill on that line.
yeah spilling while filling is more a non turbo thing, but a leaking oil filter stand, or removing the oil filter without popping a hole in it and it's pretty easy to spill on that line.
I always replace this hose everytime I work on someones car... mandatory.
#13
Those O rings were one of the culprits on mine.
So how about at 100k You should ...
Replace Oil Pedastal O rings(2) and the Rear iron to Firewall coolant hose.
The Orings are really easy to replace.
Just get a 10mm wrench and remove the 2 nuts underneath.
So how about at 100k You should ...
Replace Oil Pedastal O rings(2) and the Rear iron to Firewall coolant hose.
The Orings are really easy to replace.
Just get a 10mm wrench and remove the 2 nuts underneath.
#14
when you replace the hose (or if the one on the car is in GOOD shape), get some black RTV silicone from the auto parts place, and apply a thin layer over the first 4-5" of hose (engine side)...the silicone will keep the oil, etc off the hose, takes the heat, and expands with the hose...no more oil soaked hose problems...
#15
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
when you replace the hose (or if the one on the car is in GOOD shape), get some black RTV silicone from the auto parts place, and apply a thin layer over the first 4-5" of hose (engine side)...the silicone will keep the oil, etc off the hose, takes the heat, and expands with the hose...no more oil soaked hose problems...
Great Sug. man. Thanks alot!
(will do wonders in my '71 GMC p/u)
|M|
#16
Good public notice. On my previous FC, that hose developed a pinprick leak... I was lucky it didn't burst.
I replaced all the heater and radiator hoses on my current FC before I even drove it home.
I replaced all the heater and radiator hoses on my current FC before I even drove it home.
#18
personally i think all of the main hoses should be replaced at 60k not 100k but that is just me, the exception being the accelerated warmup hoses which do not tend to burst as often and are less prone to damaging the engine as easily since they don't leak as fast compared to the heater hose or radiator hoses if they burst.
#19
Originally Posted by iceblue
What is PD? Search is not working right now.
Originally Posted by Karack
personally i think all of the main hoses should be replaced at 60k not 100k but that is just me, the exception being the accelerated warmup hoses which do not tend to burst (...)
#20
Originally Posted by Kai
Pulsation damper. It's a failure-prone part that needs replacement on most FC's these days.
#22
Originally Posted by Icemark
...Nothing about hoses...
In the FSM, it CLEARLY says that, under normal driving conditions, all cooling system hoses, should be inspected for cracks or wear, at 15k mile intervals.
This is the part where I explain how this thread is useless, since ICEMARK has already told everyone who has posted a question, TO GO READ THE FSM.
***FYI***
I change ALL my coolant hoses at 15K intervals, NO MATTER WHAT CONDITION THEY ARE IN.
Last edited by bigdv519; 05-31-05 at 08:52 PM.
#23
I will just add that I blew this hose on my TII one night when my foot was WOT. It made quite a mess. I shut down right away. Lucky it blew right at the end, so I could shove it back on there with the rest of the hose, clamp it down and drive home. (Of course filling the system again.)
Then of course I bought the new hose from mazda the next day. I just wanted to get home.
Then of course I bought the new hose from mazda the next day. I just wanted to get home.
#24
I find this a very helpful reminder, because most people are not going to go around reading through the entire FSM for fun. I just use it to look up stuff I need. Either way, I'm not going to go around replacing my hoses every 15k, but replacing this hose seems a reasonably good idea, so I'm going to go do it.