another coolan buzzer thread (search for days already)
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another coolan buzzer thread (search for days already)
I recently bought a 87 TII. When I bought it the coolant buzzer was going off and I have been trying to fix it.
I have a few questions.
First when I have searched people were talking about a sensor on the top middle of the radiator. Is it this what my finger is touching b/c if it is, something is missing.
Also is the air bleeder valve what my thumb is touching in this pic?
And last, when I was putting in my new thermostat I broke this little connector to this green wire that was attached to part of the thermostat housing.
In the pic, the place the connector went to is right in between the radiator cap and the alternator. The wire that attached to it is the one I am holding behind it.
When I searched I read that if you take that wire and ground it to the chasis the buzzer will go away, that is why there is a blue butt splice and another wire connected to it. I grounded it to the shock tower but the buzzing didn't go away.
Thanks for any help.
Tim
I have a few questions.
First when I have searched people were talking about a sensor on the top middle of the radiator. Is it this what my finger is touching b/c if it is, something is missing.
Also is the air bleeder valve what my thumb is touching in this pic?
And last, when I was putting in my new thermostat I broke this little connector to this green wire that was attached to part of the thermostat housing.
In the pic, the place the connector went to is right in between the radiator cap and the alternator. The wire that attached to it is the one I am holding behind it.
When I searched I read that if you take that wire and ground it to the chasis the buzzer will go away, that is why there is a blue butt splice and another wire connected to it. I grounded it to the shock tower but the buzzing didn't go away.
Thanks for any help.
Tim
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In the 1st pic you are touching the anchor nut tab for the fan shroud & intake snorkle.
In the 2nd pic, your thumb is on the coolant level sensor plug.
It should have a wire comming out that used to connect to bullet connector socket at the end of a wire from the passenger side of the radiator.
When that circuit is ungrounded, you get a low coolant light & buzzer.
In the 2nd pic, your thumb is on the coolant level sensor plug.
It should have a wire comming out that used to connect to bullet connector socket at the end of a wire from the passenger side of the radiator.
When that circuit is ungrounded, you get a low coolant light & buzzer.
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Re: another coolan buzzer thread (search for days already)
Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
And last, when I was putting in my new thermostat I broke this little connector to this green wire that was attached to part of the thermostat housing.
In the pic, the place the connector went to is right in between the radiator cap and the alternator. The wire that attached to it is the one I am holding behind it.
When I searched I read that if you take that wire and ground it to the chasis the buzzer will go away, that is why there is a blue butt splice and another wire connected to it. I grounded it to the shock tower but the buzzing didn't go away.
And last, when I was putting in my new thermostat I broke this little connector to this green wire that was attached to part of the thermostat housing.
In the pic, the place the connector went to is right in between the radiator cap and the alternator. The wire that attached to it is the one I am holding behind it.
When I searched I read that if you take that wire and ground it to the chasis the buzzer will go away, that is why there is a blue butt splice and another wire connected to it. I grounded it to the shock tower but the buzzing didn't go away.
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There should be a long brown wire coming from a wiring harness behind the headlights or if you still have the stock filter, it will be below that. For now, if you can't find the wire, just ground the end and it will go off.
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the wire that connects to the coolant level sensor(the one you're holding in the pic),should be hidden underneath you air intake snorkus thing that sits on top of your radiator shroud. it comes from somewhere over near the pass side headlight.
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#11
Re: Re: another coolan buzzer thread (search for days already)
Originally posted by SureShot
The wire to the water temp sensor needs to be connected, The ECU will throw a check code and assume the engine is not warming up.
The wire to the water temp sensor needs to be connected, The ECU will throw a check code and assume the engine is not warming up.
Read the FSM or something before you post stuff you don't know. It may throw a code, but it doesn't make the ECU think the engine isn't warming up. The ECU functions in open and cold loop fine with it disconnected.
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The "sensor" at the bottom of the rad is simply a thermal switch. It's entire purpose in life is to make the 3000 RPM startup happen. I tend to remove them to prevent the 3000 RPM startup as we all know how bad this is for a dead cold engine.
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LOL, I will be getting a shroud the next time I go to a j-yard, the car didn't have one when I bought it.
The sensor that is in the pic was $33 + tax from the dealer.
Tim
The sensor that is in the pic was $33 + tax from the dealer.
Tim
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
The "sensor" at the bottom of the rad is simply a thermal switch. It's entire purpose in life is to make the 3000 RPM startup happen. I tend to remove them to prevent the 3000 RPM startup as we all know how bad this is for a dead cold engine.
The "sensor" at the bottom of the rad is simply a thermal switch. It's entire purpose in life is to make the 3000 RPM startup happen. I tend to remove them to prevent the 3000 RPM startup as we all know how bad this is for a dead cold engine.
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Re: Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
Thanks guys, I found the wire and it worked. No more buzzing.
Tim
Thanks guys, I found the wire and it worked. No more buzzing.
Tim
Isn't live better without that POS ringing in your ear?
It's so damn loud that when I had it, I could still hear it ringing in my ear even after it's off!
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Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
LOL, I will be getting a shroud the next time I go to a j-yard, the car didn't have one when I bought it.
The sensor that is in the pic was $33 + tax from the dealer.
Tim
LOL, I will be getting a shroud the next time I go to a j-yard, the car didn't have one when I bought it.
The sensor that is in the pic was $33 + tax from the dealer.
Tim
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You **DO** need the shroud for it to cool otherwise the fan just pulls air from around the radiator which doesn't do jack. You'll be amazed how much cooler it runs with the shroud. I'd give mine to you for free but I live in the middle of the Pacific.
And btw, there was 2 sensors you could get, 1 was 25 and the other was 33, the guy at the dealer needed my vin # to tell which one I needed.
Tim
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Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
Actually I wont b/c my temp guage isn't working. LOL. I thought getting that new sensor would fix it but it didn't. Oh well, just another thing to fix.
And btw, there was 2 sensors you could get, 1 was 25 and the other was 33, the guy at the dealer needed my vin # to tell which one I needed.
Tim
Actually I wont b/c my temp guage isn't working. LOL. I thought getting that new sensor would fix it but it didn't. Oh well, just another thing to fix.
And btw, there was 2 sensors you could get, 1 was 25 and the other was 33, the guy at the dealer needed my vin # to tell which one I needed.
Tim
This could be an easy fix as well. Above the rear trailing spark plug, there's a male small peg sticking out of the rear block. There should be a wire (yellow?)attached to it. That's for the temp gauge. If that doesn't work, temp gauges are cheap. Get one.
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Ok, i'll check for that. I got the car recently and I have not been driving it except for the drive home.
I've been using my other n/a as a DD.
If I get a new temp guage, will auto meter be ok or should I get something better? Also does an aftermarket guage plug into that same male connector?
Tim
I've been using my other n/a as a DD.
If I get a new temp guage, will auto meter be ok or should I get something better? Also does an aftermarket guage plug into that same male connector?
Tim
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Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
Ok, i'll check for that. I got the car recently and I have not been driving it except for the drive home.
I've been using my other n/a as a DD.
If I get a new temp guage, will auto meter be ok or should I get something better? Also does an aftermarket guage plug into that same male connector?
Tim
Ok, i'll check for that. I got the car recently and I have not been driving it except for the drive home.
I've been using my other n/a as a DD.
If I get a new temp guage, will auto meter be ok or should I get something better? Also does an aftermarket guage plug into that same male connector?
Tim
Autometer is fine for monitoring and they're cheap.
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Did you find the wire? Is it attached?
Autometer makes both but electrical ones are a little more. A lot easier to run 2 wires than a huge sender through the firewall isn't it? You just need to ground the sender in the engine. It's easy to install.
The sender is a 1/8NPT thread and comes with 1/4 adapter. You need to tap the thermostat housing to thread in the sender or buy an adapter with an 1/8 NPT thread for you to attach 2 hoses. I bought a Greddy sender adapter but not sure you can get it in the US.
Autometer makes both but electrical ones are a little more. A lot easier to run 2 wires than a huge sender through the firewall isn't it? You just need to ground the sender in the engine. It's easy to install.
The sender is a 1/8NPT thread and comes with 1/4 adapter. You need to tap the thermostat housing to thread in the sender or buy an adapter with an 1/8 NPT thread for you to attach 2 hoses. I bought a Greddy sender adapter but not sure you can get it in the US.
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I found the wire, it was yellow, and it was attached. Earlier today I bought a Splitfire electrical one for $40. Going to put it in tomorrow.
BTW: what does NPT stand for?
Tim
BTW: what does NPT stand for?
Tim
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Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
I found the wire, it was yellow, and it was attached. Earlier today I bought a Splitfire electrical one for $40. Going to put it in tomorrow.
BTW: what does NPT stand for?
Tim
I found the wire, it was yellow, and it was attached. Earlier today I bought a Splitfire electrical one for $40. Going to put it in tomorrow.
BTW: what does NPT stand for?
Tim
So, I assume the temp gauge doesn't work if you're getting an aftermarket one?
NPT= National Pipe Thread
standard code for 99% of the world except Britain which uses code BSP (British Standard Pipe)
Go figure.