younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

I purchased a rebuilt mitsubishi alternator from a local shop here rated for 100 amps. Fits in the stock location and has the stock 2 wire connector. The only problem is, the connector doesn't fit on the harness and I'd like to know how to wire this thing up.

I've posted up a picture of the stock S5 and S4 alternators. I found this on the web.



The alternator that I picked up has the exact same B TERMINAL positioning as the S4 but looks to have the electrical connector of the S5. The corresponding connector to my new alt says the L TERMINAL is POSITIVE and the S TERMINAL is NEGATIVE. Which wire on the stock harness wires up to what?

Example:

white/black wire to POSITIVE(L TERMINAL)
black/white wire to NEGATIVE(S TERMINAL)

I'm not exactly sure what to do here. Any help would be great.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

If my question is unclear, someone please just say so.

Again, Which wires on the stock harness wires up to what?

HAILERS

On a series four, the black/white is the one that corresponds to the L terminal (finds it's way to the idiot light cluster).

If this is a series five alt you bought, then you would NOT put the black/white to the S terminal........cause on a series five alt the S terminal HAS to be a constant source of batt power, NOT the switched power found on the series four B/W wire.

So you tie back the black/white wire to the harness out of the way. Then run a constant sourece of batt pwr from the engine bay fuse box.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

On the S4 alt, which terminal is POSITIVE and which is NEGATIVE? Asking just to clarify it for myself. Appreciate it.

HAILERS

There is no positive/neg terminal.

The Black/White wire is power from the engne fuse (fairly sure 'bout the fuse) and is used to power the internal regulator in the series four alt.

The White/Black (Meter fuse) feeds the alt regulator excitation volage of approx 1-3vdc (see Engine or Body Electrical seciton of FSM) when the alt is not turning. If the alt is not turning, then that wire acts as a trip for the alt relays coil in the CPU, which in turn puts a gnd on the idiot light cluster to turn all the warning lights on if the alt is not turning/putting out.

The alternators in both cars get their gnd for the alternators internal circuit from...........contact b/t the alt body and the engine attach bolts/spacers etc.

There is NO gnd WIRE as such on the alternators.

I take it the electrical jack on the new alt does NOT look like the seires four (see YOUR picture) but looks like the series five jack. So look at the series five jack and put the white/black wire where it says L terminal and then put a wire with constant power 24/7 on the S terminal.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

The electrical jack on the new alt does not look like the like the stock S4. Its using the same electrical jack as the S5. Other than that, the rest of the alt physically looks the same from the outside.

I connected the L terminal to the white/black wire like you said, and a constant 12v from the engine fuse box to the S terminal. Nothing happened when trying to start.

I had the wire from the harness running to the B terminal having a constant 12v with a wire from the S terminal connected to it as well. Again, nothing happened while trying to start.

The only thing that happened was the dash warning lights came on.

Is the black/white wire supposed to be connected to anything? The R terminal?

HAILERS

Black/white on a series four is switch power. As in turn the key to ON switches power to it.

That is what you want for a series four alternator. You DO NOT wan that for a series five alternator, therefore you run a 24/7 source of power to the S terminal on series four.

Black/White does not get used on your application.

Warning light cluster lights should come on if KEY is ON and engine off.

Key on, engine running............no warning lights except those with a problem. Like hatch open.

I'm missing something here. What is it that you expect to HAPPEN?????? when tryig to start?????????

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

Here is a CRUDE picture of what my new alt looks like.



If I did this right, I did what you suggested correctly but the car is still not starting? I thought the battery might have been weak so I tried jumping the car, and still nothing. Is this a problem with my harness and not the alt?

The warning lights do come on when I switch the key to ON but the engine is OFF and I get those with a problem. Like hatch open, door open.

The warning light cluster as a whole do not come on with the key to ON and engine off. It only did this once or twice and stopped. Solder joints maybe?

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

Appreciate all the help.

HAILERS

Sounds like you have no alternator problem other than a small issue with not all the warning lights coming on when the key is put to ON, engine OFF.

Car won't start? Does that mean when you go to Start, that the starter does not turn over?

Or does it mean the starter turns the engine over but the engine does not start?

IF the engine turns over with the starter but does not actually start, then check for spark in your favorite method, whatever that might be. You might pull both lower sparkplugs out and lay them aside. Then take one of those sparkplug wires and lay it near the left strut tower studs and then spin the engine over. Spark should occcur at the wire near the strut tower.

Does the fuel pump work with the key to ON and the yellow two socket check connector jumpered with a piece of wire. Should if it's a series four car.

The fuse are required. The two EGI fuse in the engine bay and the ENGINE fuse in the interior.

A engine will start just fine even with the alternator laying in the backyard. Not recommended but just FYI.

Or try this. STARE at the tach needle. Then put the key to just ON. The needle will barely make a small jump. Shows spark did occur at least at the trail coils once. OR if the engine will spin over, then spin it over with the starter and stare at the tach needle. The needle should make very small bumps up/down as the motor is turned over, proving a lot of things. LIke spark is occuring at the trails and most likely the Lead coils also.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

The starter doesn't turn over when I try to start the car. Won't crank at all with the new alt installed. Instead, I threw my old alt back onto the car just to see if it would start, and it did. As long as the battery had a jump from another car.

The tach needle does jump when I put the key to ON though.

HAILERS

Sounds more like a battery or battery cable/connection problem. Possible starter problem on the outside.

Alternators have zip to do with starting. Engne won't run long without a starter and you can fry a battery over a period of time running without a working alternator.. Other than that I don't see it being a alt problem.

With the engine idling/running, put a meter on the batt terminals and see if the alt is putting out to the batt. Should read 13.5 to 14.2vdc idling/running without the other car jumpered to your car.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

I measured voltage from the alt, starter, fuse box and anywhere else imaginable to see voltage on the ignition harness. I read 12V+ everywhere I checked. I'm stumped.

HAILERS

Lift up your trail coil assy and see if you have a Blue jumper connector attached to a plug in that area of the engine bay. If you do, write back. I take it this car has no Theft protection by the factory.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

Yes it is jumpered and no there is no factory security

HAILERS

Well. Put the car in neutral.

Pull the blue jumper plug off the harness and put it to the side.

Look into the harness plug you pulled the blue jumper off. See how one wire is Black/White? If there are two black/white look for the one that is larger in size.

Get a piece of spare wire that will reach b/t the battery positive post and that elect plug. Strip both ends of the new wire. Stuff one end into the socket where the black/white wire is in the plug.

Now with the car in neutral, touch the other end of your new wire to the batterey positive post. The starter should turn over. IF it does, repeat this several times and let us know if the starter spun each and every time you touched the new wires end to the battery poitive post.

Just FYI. The jumper wire in the blue plug should match the sockets in the harness plug where the black/white wire is and where the black/green wire is in the harness plug. Just FYI.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

Alright, just went out and tried this. I connected the wire to positive about 5 times and each time it cranked over. What does this mean?

HAILERS

I'm tired so I won't re read this thead. My question now is.........when you go to START, do you hear the starter solenoid click????

Something you might try first. Go to the clutch interlock switch on the very top/front side of the clutch pedal. Find the pigtail harness on the switch and follow it a half foot to it's electrical connector. Unplug the pingtail. Now with a piece of wire, jumper the two wires in the HARNESS side of the connector.

Then with the blue connector back on the harness, turn the key to Start and see if the starter turns over. IF it does, then you have a bad interlock switch (the switch you just bypassed by jumpering the harness plug).


What you proved when the starter ran each time, is that the starter and solenoid are just fine and the problem lies from the blue jumper back to the ignition switch. The clutch interlock switch is in between the two.

HAILERS

,