K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I shifted into second as I was getting on an on ramp coming home today, and all of my warning lights including the shift up light came on and stayed on until I got home and shut the car off. I haven't started it up yet, but any thoughts on what it could be? Bumped a wire while shifting? Alternator? Alternator wire is lose?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

one likely cause is the logicon (idiot light cluster) has cold soldering joints. If you search that in here you will find plenty of information on it and how to fix it.

Now, you did mention alternator, and I did read something about this here before. One guy said his bad ground on the alternator cause his idiot lights to come up. I would check this out first:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...con+alternator

hope this helps, i am sure you can find more on this if you search.

Basically, I would check the alternator before anything else, it would be the easiest to diagnose.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Warning lights coming on means the alternator is failing. Test / replace it.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I brought up the alternator point because that's what I read after searching. I think it might be something else, the Alternator is the original with 53,xxx miles on it. It could be bad but I doubt it. It happened after shifting hard into second. I had the dampening on my coilovers set a little bit higher then usual, and the roads around here are horrible so I think It may have caused something to become loose.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Alt belt?

I broke mine on a 'dip' in the road while i was doing 90. Snapped the belt and I learned about all the lights coming on for the first time.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Hm that good be. The idle is a little higher than usual. A little over 1000RPMs instead of 700~

prof

I had an alternator fail on the motorway - the lights all came on, but car drove for another 40-50 miles in traffic and still started - but eventually on the way home again it died - battery voltage was 8-9 volts.

Check the little 2 pin plug on the alterenator wiring, and that it has earth to the body of the alternator. Check your +ve is secure and that you've got connectivity between that post on the alternator and battery +ve. If that's all good then check the belts / pully aren't slack.

Car should have 13-14 volts across the battery when running - if it's lower sounds like the alternator has gone if all the above checks are good.

SecondGenPat

same here. but i was a little "animated" and "tapped" the idiot light trim and broke it all to hell, just to find out the generator belt snapped.
-Pat

CompuBob

pop the hood and let us know if your missing the alt belt.

rolfs_7

def check the belt as most people have said. the best way to diagnose problems is to start with the easiest and or cheapest first. like secondgenpat said about finding out it was his belt and not the cluster. poping the hood vs detroying an interior piece the decision seems to be obvious to me.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

It was the alternator belt. It's just gone lol. So I picked up a new one. What's the best way to install it?

CompuBob

lol that was easy

you're going to have to remove the fan, then all of the other belts, you can loosen them up using the tensioning bolts located above the A/C and Power steering pully's. and you have to loosen the nuts in the center of those 2 pully's so they can slide down.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Put the belt on, lights disappeared. Runs great again. The idle is still a little high :/

SecondGenPat

vacuum leaks, a mis-adjusted air bleed screw, or advanced timing.

bridge the check connector next to the leading coil after the engine is at operating temp and adjust idle from there.
just remember to remove your jumper wire from the check connector after you're finished.
-Pat

MDD0101

you dont have to remove the fan to put the belt on btw...i just fit the belts over the fan

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow. Its not too bad just like a couple hundred RPMs higher than normal.