All *NEW* clutch hydrolic system and it fails on shutdown!?
#1
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
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Thread Starter
All *NEW* clutch hydrolic system and it fails on shutdown!?
So, my dillemma is fairly intriguing. I'm running all new clutch hydrolics (Master cylinder, corksport braided stainless clutch line, slave cylinder), and today when I get to work, I (for some reason unbeknownst to me) had the clutch in and turned off the car. At this point, once the engine stopped spinning, the clutch lost ALL pressure and sucked to the floor. Now I'm just giving myself a migraine trying to figure out ANY plausable explaination for this. Any insight would be appreciated. Also, I know it's a hydrolic problem as there is no motion at the slave, so it's not the front trans snout that the throwout bearing rides on like I've had before.
Thanks for any and all advice
Thanks for any and all advice
#3
Assuming you installed the parts correctly and bleed the system per the FSM… Then you must have an air bubble trapped in the line somewhere…
The clutch system only moves in an out a couple of inches, this means that the amount of distance the fluid travels in the line is minimal, so if you have a bubble in the middle of the line then it will only travel 2-3 inches back and forth… never getting to the bleeder
Usually the first thing I do is to let it gravity bleed for a minute or so.. remove the cap off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open and make sure the system is always full… at this time I use a large screw driver handle and tap on all the parts of the system that contain fluid to help persuade any stubborn air bubbles out…
Close bleeder and test system… if it doesn’t work, then bleed with pump and hold method, you may need a friend to help with this.
(a cheap one man method is to take a cap from the old clutch master drill a hole and insert a threaded Schrader valve from a tire, use bike pump to put a few lbs of air (not too much, don’t want to blow the seals) and bleed away; making sure the reservoir is always full)
If this doesn’t work, then you can try and crack the line at the master and/or at the slave.
The clutch system only moves in an out a couple of inches, this means that the amount of distance the fluid travels in the line is minimal, so if you have a bubble in the middle of the line then it will only travel 2-3 inches back and forth… never getting to the bleeder
Usually the first thing I do is to let it gravity bleed for a minute or so.. remove the cap off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open and make sure the system is always full… at this time I use a large screw driver handle and tap on all the parts of the system that contain fluid to help persuade any stubborn air bubbles out…
Close bleeder and test system… if it doesn’t work, then bleed with pump and hold method, you may need a friend to help with this.
(a cheap one man method is to take a cap from the old clutch master drill a hole and insert a threaded Schrader valve from a tire, use bike pump to put a few lbs of air (not too much, don’t want to blow the seals) and bleed away; making sure the reservoir is always full)
If this doesn’t work, then you can try and crack the line at the master and/or at the slave.
#4
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/15_year_icon.png)
Thread Starter
Well, actually looks like the surclip in the master let loose and being at shutdown was just a coincidence. Luckily Lee Auto Parts is covering it, but not before I have to go to work sunday night.
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