SimplyComplex

Alright, I have a tenth ann, and I was changing my radiator when I noticed the belt right in front of the alternator belt was just about snapped. I just thought I'd finish things, and change it later. But when I was putting the radiator back in, the thing snapped. Great.

So, I got the radiator and everything back in, and I thought the belt wasn't really necessary, since it was just the air pump belt. It went around the air pump, then around the fan, and the pully on the right side of the engine bay as well.

I tried starting the car, thinking it wouldn't be a big deal. The car had trouble starting, then died after about 2 seconds. It repeats this process every time I try and start it.

I didn't think it was absolutely necessary for that belt to be on, so I'm really just trying to clarify here. Is it that belt that's keeping my car from running? Or did I **** something up with the radiator, "for instance, on the bottom corner of the radiator is a.. sensor, I think, with 2 plugs going to it. I wasn't sure if it mattered which plug went to which end."

Blah. So, if anyone can make sense of that, "and I'm sorry. I've been up for about 30 hours, and I can barely make intelligible speech at this point," I'd appreciate the help.

Air pump belt or radiator plug thing. Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?


Edit: I'm running the stock ECU, and I have a straight pipe to the stock mufflers. I know on my FD, when I ran that same setup, and unplugged the air pump, it choked itself out... Does it have the same effect on FC's?

SimplyComplex

I'ma just put a new belt on. If I possibly fucked something up with the sensor on the radiator "not the thermostat, the one on the bottom" maybe not being hooked up right, I'd appreciate the reply.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I don't think either one of those would cause your car not to start, the air pump definitely has no effect on starting and I thought the wires could go either way on the radiator sensor, even though i don't think that would keep if from starting either.

ilike2eatricers

sounds like it's flooded. you have a straight pipe so you dont need your airpump other than to help your wp from slipping.

SimplyComplex

So the air pump, once removed, if you have a straightpipe, and a STOCK ECU, doesn't cause the car to choke out and die if you don't raise the idle? That's what I understood, but it could just be for FD's, I guess.

And it's not flooded. I have a fuel cut switch in my car, and I'm VERY familiar with the act of unflooding my baby. Ha.

I took out: Air box, fan shroud, radiator, battery+tray, and I believe that's it, before reinstalling everything. I'ma check vacuum lines and replace that belt.

Any other ideas?

oakback

Make sure your AFM (or MAF, whatever) is plugged in all the way.

SimplyComplex

MAF is plugged in all the way. I changed the belt. Still gives me the same response.

Cranks strong, runs for about a second, then just shuts off.

I checked all the vacuum lines that don't require removing the UIM. I'm at a total loss as to what's going on. What I could have fucked up in changing a radiator that would cause this problem?

ilike2eatricers

does it start up to 3k and just stall? sounds like the AFM or TID is loose or you have another huge vac leak

SimplyComplex

Twas indeed the TID. I must have knocked it off while putting the radiator or air box in.

Thanks much, yo.

ilike2eatricers

whoo hooo i win the internet!! thanks for actually coming back and posting the solution not enough people do that.