InMyWhiteTII

How do i get it off? Im trying to get to the turbo intake pipe to see if its cracked, but i cant get the thing off! i removed the hose going to the air pump but i cant get the one going to the turbo off. i want to disconnect it at the turbo. any suggestions?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

You checked the haynes manual and FSM?

InMyWhiteTII

the extent of the FSM's wisdom is "2. Remove the Air Intake Box Assembly"

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

lol, ok
Do you have the haynes manual, though? I'll go check it out and see if its better. Otherwise, I have no idea.
Edit: I don't even know what to look for. Hopefully a turbo guy will chime in.

InMyWhiteTII

no haynes manual...yea if you could check real quick it would be much appreciated

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

what page on the fsm is it? Maybe then I can figure out what it is to look for.

Carzy Driver

undo the hose clamp on the afm, unplug the afm, unplug the air pump feed line,remove 3 bolts, and pull it out. I think I pretty much covered it

InMyWhiteTII

its page 1-12. mainly what i need to know is how to remove the main intake hose from the turbo inlet.

InMyWhiteTII

Okay i got the turbo inlet hose out and i think i found the source of my problems. Its a split in the hose, like longways as it enters the turbo. Would this cause a bouncy idle? One problem though, im not sure if it was like that before or if i damaged it during removal. Is there any way to do a quick fix on this until i can make it to a mazda dealer? unless you know someone whos selling an S4 TII turbo inlet pipe...

InMyWhiteTII

is duct tape heat resistant? damn i need to drive tonight and this is my daily driver, any help?

Go48

iTrader: (7)

If the split is between the air flow meter and the intake manifold, it can very well cause a rough idle. Duct tape is not heat resistant, but it should be OK for a short time. A dealer will charge you an arm and leg to replace the hose, BTW. Better to replace it yourself with a used unit or new unit from a discount Mazda parts dealer or fabricate one yourself.

InMyWhiteTII

does it have to be rubber? would a stainless piece work?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's absolutely the cause. It's a very common problem.

Duct tape will work as a stop-gap mesure in the short term, but you need to repair it properly.

Probably the most cost effective thing to do is simply make a new one out of ABS plumbing supplies. Most of the turbo inlet ducts by now are getting very brittle so a used piece is kind of a gamble.

InMyWhiteTII

i did a quick patch job with duct tape and replaced the rusted hose clamp with a new stainless one, and it still bounces! before it didnt idle at all, now it does a little, but still bounces. and it still does at stoplights. should i try readjusting the TPS?