I made that TPS checker thing with xmas lights, and it worked once. The next time I tried to use it, one light flashes, the other one does nothing, and no matter how much I turn the TPS screw nothing changes!
What is wrong with this thing? Is it best to just adjust the TPS, drive it a bit, and repeat until desired result has been achieved??

 

I use the multi meter to set the TPS.. and this is not my idea but one of the contributors on here. Accordingly when you have the idle set at about 750 or so and you should be able to read .95V DC on the Green with red stripe wire in the plug....no need to pull the plug apart just insert the red probe into the socket at the back and ground the other..... I have the car idling quite smooth now and set lean as well.....

hope that helps.....although I am new to this as well.

Tim.

 

Hmm...I used the light trick, but it just so happens that I have a multimeter. You say that .95 VDC is good? Anyone else got any other numbers?

Rat

I bet HAILERS has something on this, he has numbers for everything.

 

Download the factory service manual and follow the procedure there. Use the search function to locate, I think that there is a copy at www.fc3s.org.

The problem might be that you may have burnt out the driver circuits in the ECU! You should be using a light that draws no more then 15mA current. Most standard LED's with a 1K ohm resister would be fine. Hook up the two positive leads together and attach a 1/4" spade lug, the other leads (-) will have the 1k ohm resister attached and will be attached to another 1/4" spade lug each. So in the end you should have a total of 3 leads.

To hook up the checker the combined lead goes into the top of the 3 pin connector, and the other 2 go into each of the remaining bottom connecters. This connector is located by the air cleaner (again get the FSM).

Someone mentioned before that Radio Shack has a 12v 15ma light (LED) under part number 276-011A, I'm not sure of this but in any case they should be able to fix you up with the correct parts.

If your realy adventuresome make on LED green and the other red, this way you could use it to do the other checks for the solenoids (FSM).

Just found the link that I followed to a good description on TPS adjustment:

http://home.rmci.net/panther/tps.htm

 

Here is the deal.... You drive the vehicle until its FULLY warmed up. Then you plug in the lights to the TPS.

The question I have is, you used X-Mas lights right? Were they 110 VAC lights or were they DC lights? If you took a light off of your Christmas tree, and jammed it into your car, you probably put an AC (alternating current) bulb into a DC (direct current) socket. Probably burned the bulb out.

Check your light. Then, once you get two working 12VDC lights, adjust your TPS till they are both extinguished. Then adjust till one of them JUST COMES ON. This should get you in there pretty good.

Rat

 

Do you really think my ECU has burnt out?
The drive of the car changes when I adjust the TPS, but the lights dont' (one stays flashing and the other never turns on). If the cars drive changes, does that mean my ECU is still working? (Pleassssssssssssse let it be yes!)

And will a analog multimeter work? OR does it have to be digital?

Thanks

Nima

 

Let the car come up to operating temp then set the TPS to as close to 1V as you can get it. I have never tried the light trick I use my SAFC, but a multimeter is probably the best way.

 

Hmmm I did it the multimeter way (with the green wire/red stripe and ground) and set it close to 1V. The car was jumping and bucking all over the place. Mine was set about 2.1 and it was alot smoother. I guess I will try the light trick...other than that, I guess half a turn/test drive is the best way, no?

Nima

 

No, that is not the best way. If you set the TPS with a high-impedance multimeter (10 Megohm input impedance), on a fully warmed up engine, and it still doesn't work right, fix it! Open up the throttle plate slowly until the TPS is at it's max. The voltage should increase linearly to approx. 4.5 volts. If it jumps to 0 or 4.5 volts anytime during the throttle opening, replace the TPS, it is bad.

As far as the ECU goes, your test rig is actually connected across the switching and relief solenoid valves. Chances are one of the grounding transistors is now blown. However, except for not meeting emissions/injecting air for proper cat operation, it will not affect the normal operations of the ECU. Have fun!

Irv, Keith's dad