Aftermarket Coolent temp sender Not it WP
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i Have done alot of searching about where to put a coolent temp sender. Almost everyone says to drill and tap the WP. i did see one person who put it into another place which was the Coolent drain plug location for the block. I believe that it was JRat that did it but im not sure.
Has anyone else done this? it sure is a hell of a lot easier than removing the Wp to drill and Tap it?
opinions?
Has anyone else done this? it sure is a hell of a lot easier than removing the Wp to drill and Tap it?
opinions?
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Originally Posted by cezonetheillest
i remember seeing a hose that already had a place to put a aftermarket water tem sensor on it. i don't know where to get it though.
#5
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go buy a "t" for copper plumbing and use it. just cut the hose on the back of the water pump, put the "T" in there with a couple of hose clamps and epoxy your sensor into the "T".
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The place that my sender is located is on the driver's side of the engine. It is located between a couple of the studs that hold the A/C compressor. You just need to remove the allen head screw that is in there and install your sender.
If memory serves me correctly, it is the exact threading as the Autometer sender adapter.
Hope this helps.
If memory serves me correctly, it is the exact threading as the Autometer sender adapter.
Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
go buy a "t" for copper plumbing and use it. just cut the hose on the back of the water pump, put the "T" in there with a couple of hose clamps and epoxy your sensor into the "T".
I've been considering the *block* drain. Just considering.
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
go buy a "t" for copper plumbing and use it. just cut the hose on the back of the water pump, put the "T" in there with a couple of hose clamps and epoxy your sensor into the "T".
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What's wrong with just drilling and tapping the water pump housing? You don't have to remove it. Just pull the alternator and surrounding components.
You can also T into the stock sendor location.
I don't recommend putting any temp gauge AFTER the thermostat. If the thermostat fails, you won't get a temp reading.
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I've been considering the *block* drain. Just considering.
well i think im going to do it ill let you know how it goes
cake- the reason i was avoiding the WP idea is that if i drill and tap it with it still in teh car ill get metal shavings into the cooling system and with my luck ill somehow manage to get them to clog up some passages in teh rad.
also without taking off the pump i wont be certain of a good place to put the sender
IE that will be deep enough that the sender wont hit the metal behind the pump and also so that it wont interfer with the actual pumping of the coolent through the system
and for the rest of ya i wont do the brass T connecter idea because first off the sensor will not be in the direct flow of the coolent so the reading would be off for that reason also for the reasons that Hailers mentiond
thanks for the input guys
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I am not very popular tonight at all. You'll all like my ideas or else!!!! or else!!!! I am taking my ball and going home.
Good that you guys correct me. I was thinking that the water flow was going from the water pump to the BAC then to the Throttle body. In which case a T would work there. Mine was based on just an idea but thanks to this forum the best way to mod is out in the open.
Good that you guys correct me. I was thinking that the water flow was going from the water pump to the BAC then to the Throttle body. In which case a T would work there. Mine was based on just an idea but thanks to this forum the best way to mod is out in the open.
#13
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Hmm, I wonder what the temp difference is between the front iron and the back (stock) location, considering that by the time the stock sender senses the temp, it's already passed the two rotor housings on the combustion sides, and the front iron location wouldn't have had any rotor housing "input" on the temp...
That's a good problem for you to tinker with, Hailers
That's a good problem for you to tinker with, Hailers
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#14
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Not a accurate place to get a reading. Been there, done that. The flow is FROM the rear housing to the throttle body to the bac to the rear of the water pump. A good deal of temperature is lost there. I compared using two gauges of the same make at the same time. One in a pipe b/t the waterpump and the radiator, the other in a tee b/t the bac and the waterpump. Over ten degrees difference.
I've been considering the *block* drain. Just considering.
I've been considering the *block* drain. Just considering.
Last edited by jhammons01; 03-29-05 at 12:39 AM.
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Using the heater line is ok IF you leave the heater to full hot all year long. I put a tee into the heater hose prior to the core and it does not work unless the heater is to full open all the time.
I put a tee into the line b/t the bac connection and the back of the water pump and compared it with another same type gauge in the water pump hose b/t the waterpump and the radiator. The one in the bac line was cooler than I would have thought. So I suppose it gets cooled by the throttle body more than you'd think.
I'm thinking about putting one in the block water drain.
In the meantime the water temp gauge is connected to a sensor I put in the pan where the old SubZero sensor went and the other in a home made block I put b/t the oil filter and the pedestal (RB copy cat, homemade out of a block of aluminum using drill bits and taps). Measures oil temp in the pan vs the oil cooler outlet temp.
The water temp sensor below the oil filter pedestal?? You'd have to find a aftermarket sensor that would fit into that hole......or drill and tap a larger hole for the aftermarket sensor. I sorta hate to lose the stock gauge all together.
I put a tee into the line b/t the bac connection and the back of the water pump and compared it with another same type gauge in the water pump hose b/t the waterpump and the radiator. The one in the bac line was cooler than I would have thought. So I suppose it gets cooled by the throttle body more than you'd think.
I'm thinking about putting one in the block water drain.
In the meantime the water temp gauge is connected to a sensor I put in the pan where the old SubZero sensor went and the other in a home made block I put b/t the oil filter and the pedestal (RB copy cat, homemade out of a block of aluminum using drill bits and taps). Measures oil temp in the pan vs the oil cooler outlet temp.
The water temp sensor below the oil filter pedestal?? You'd have to find a aftermarket sensor that would fit into that hole......or drill and tap a larger hole for the aftermarket sensor. I sorta hate to lose the stock gauge all together.
Last edited by HAILERS; 03-29-05 at 05:46 AM.
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Originally Posted by dDuB
I used the hex key drain plug location (front iron) as well. Works just fine and you get to keep the stock gauge to go along with it.
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ok for anyone else that wants to put thier aftermarket sender in the drain plug location the thread is not an NPT thread and it is not near big enough to use any kind of adapter.
the hole was actually just the right size for the sender but was the wrong thread so i just re taped it to 1/8 NPT seems to be fine so far
note: this is for an autometer sender im not sure if other brand senders will be different sizes
the hole was actually just the right size for the sender but was the wrong thread so i just re taped it to 1/8 NPT seems to be fine so far
note: this is for an autometer sender im not sure if other brand senders will be different sizes
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Originally Posted by Pinfield357
ok for anyone else that wants to put thier aftermarket sender in the drain plug location the thread is not an NPT thread and it is not near big enough to use any kind of adapter.
the hole was actually just the right size for the sender but was the wrong thread so i just re taped it to 1/8 NPT seems to be fine so far
note: this is for an autometer sender im not sure if other brand senders will be different sizes
the hole was actually just the right size for the sender but was the wrong thread so i just re taped it to 1/8 NPT seems to be fine so far
note: this is for an autometer sender im not sure if other brand senders will be different sizes
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