well with that thread earlier it got me going on my AFM, i'm trying to cure my idle issues since i have to do a dyno test only smog to get the title transfer complete. the issue i'm having is some jackass pulled the cap off the AFM and screwed it all the way in which threw all of my idle settings out of whack.

i backed it out about 3-4 turns and adjusted the variable resistor to where it will idle fine and at spec, i set the BAC to idle at 700 RPMs and then reset my SAFC2 but now i have to set the SAFC to +20% at idle for it to idle smoothly and recover correctly, is my SAFC not resetting fully and reading my AFM reading incorrectly or is my setting for the AFM incorrect? if i turn the AFM in all the way then i can run the SAFC at 0% and it will idle fine but too high and i can't drop it down with the BAC to spec for the smog.

anyone who does know how to set the AFM back to spec or does it sound like the AFM itself is defective?


it actually has me scared because i don't have a Wideband to see if the engine is running lean, i would kick something if i blew up my motor because of some ******** playing with the AFM, although the SAFC sais it is rich as a pig i don't know that i trust it since the AFM readings have changed.

help me get this sucker smogged so i can rip this emissions crap off and get on with my high HP project!

 

bleh, i reset the SAFC again and now i have to set it at -18% at idle to idle smoothly but i have the resistor set at full rich so that could be the culprit, should get me in the door anyways.

if anyone knows how to truly set the AFM let me know so i can set it the way it is supposed to be set rather than flying blind. seems to be good as it sits though, the SAFC should clean up once i reset the resistor and the engine runs **** at about 0% across the board, if i richen it up it loses power. i just want to free up some power and install my exhaust!

 

How.. And more importantly, WHY are you messing with the AFM?

 

read the post.

 

set the safc to 0 and get it to idle like that

cue the problem. don't mask it with the safc

 

there is 4 factors, it isn't as easy as it sounds. the BAC has to be set or the idle will be too high or too low, the AFM bleed screw needs to be set to allow a preset amount of air to bypass or the BAC can't compensate, the resistor screws the idle ALL up and the SAFC will overcorrect unless i make minor adjustments to all at the same time. i could unwire the SAFC except i have it soldered in place... that would be the best method but probably more work at this point in time.


if no one knows how to set it properly i will probably just leave it as it sits and do a pretest with our smog tech to see how it looks.

 

The screw on the AFM is what the factory use to calibrate the AFM. Since it never needs to be touched, there's no info in the FSM on it. Unless you can find a decent setting through experimentation, it might be easier to swap in another AFM.

 

wish i could find another AFM to swap in but i really only need it to pass this smog test. it is roughly set right now so i guess i will just have em throw it on the dyno and see how it reads.

 

I might have done it a bit different. First Initialize the SAFC to get back to just the afm's inputs.

Then make sure that little throttle stop screw, you know, the one held with a 8mm wrench size jamnut, is not holding the throttle open at all.

Then get the engine fully hot.

Install the initial set coupler or remove the bac's electrical plug.

I know your timing is probably right on so that's probably ok.

THEN start adjusting the variable resistor and the bac's air bypass screw. I'd put the variable resistor in its mid range, which I think is around 2.5 volts output.

Maybe start out with the afm screw turned out from full in stop by 2 1/2 turns. Then just idle the car and try to make it idle reasonably.

I'd really take a good look at the black cover and see if it's been tampered with. If the RTV around the edges does not look original..........think about throwing in the towel. humor

 

thanks for the suggestion, i will have to try it out next week when i have the time to redo my engine. the rear housing quit on me last night after i was done messing with it and i didn't realize it until this morning when it wouldn't fire up...

 

hey karack, you could borrow my turbo's afm to try and get you through your smogging. im picking up a "good" core my buddy is giving to me tomorrow so i can bring my afm over when i come over. if you wanna give it a try, just let me know.