HAILERS

Yeah. You have a low impedence harness in a high impedence car. I'll post the jpg of the resistor package in this next hour.

By the way, if your sure you have the high impedence injecotors, what you could do is splice all five wires in that connector together in one bunch. Walla, done. I did this on one of my 87cars. I bought some high impedence injectors and basically removed the solenoid resistor package and spliced alll five wires together. Later, in a hour or less.

N1XRR

Hailers,
I did some testing tonight. It turns out someone cut up 2 harnesses and merged a '88 harness up to the AFM with a '87 harness (basically, the injectors, BAC and O2 sensor connectors from a '87). None of the injectors where making ANY continuity and I can't find the Black/Yellow wire in the harness after the splice. I also checked the BAC and O2 sensor wire, same thing. Thanks for the help...I think I may take this harnes partially apart and fix it good.

Thanks!

HAILERS

Here's a jpg I made a year or so ago. ON the right is the thing intact. On the left is what is under the cover of the package.

What I did on mine was cut the wires in the middle.....throw the aluminum/resistors on the shelf......and splice all five wires together.

You can't do that since you don't have one, but you can still manage to splice all five wires together. Either attach five new wires to the existing plug and tie them together or cut the plug off and splice all five together. I would NOT buy a solenoid resistor package for this since you have high impedence injectors (10 to 12ohms each).

Oh the jpg http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33353

ironpanther

well where would the resistors be on the car if they were in there? I only have two high impedence injectors and a hand full of low impedence injectors. What is the current and resistance rating on the resistors?

HAILERS

Look at that jpg in the url above.post. That silver box was located about a half foot below the afm/airfilter assy. That is for low impedence cars.

Those resistors in the pictue have 6ohms x 2 written on each one. Most people go to radio shack and buy the 10ohn ones that RS has. They are large brick like resistors, much like the ones in the jpg in the url.

HAILERS

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=resistors

ironpanther

well here is our final results. We did exactly that in going to radio shack and making out own resistor block. This didn't help and actually gave us worse results then shunting the connector and giving straight battery power to the injectors. When we originally shunted we were running high impedance on the primaries and low on the secondaries. This caused the car to start but not stay started. We replaced the high impedance primaries with low impedance injectors and made our resistor block to no avail. As a last attemp before closing shop for the night we shunted the jack again and woila it started. WIth a little work we have now got the car idleing at 1500 rpm and it has started without fail the few times we tried tonight since then. We are curious as to what the low impedence setup without resistors may due to the ECU. All the injectors are 2.7 ohms.

HAILERS

Eventually the drivers will burn up due to drawing too much current. The drivers in the ECU that is. I've never seen that, but that is what is bound to happen.

I'd try to pickup a solenoid resistor out of the wrecking yard or somewhere. I've bought some off ebay where they were mixed in with other switches that were all sold together. I'm not interested in selling my spare parts though. I'd go wrecking yard for ten bucks or less.

I don't under stand why the high impedence injectors don't work . You would have run a splice off that black/yellow wire to the light green wire and another splice off that black yellow to the light green/black wire.

For the low impedence ones you'd have a 10ohm resistor b/t the black/yellow and the light green/red and a 10ohm resistor b/t the black/yellow and the light green/white. But you know that. I just can't figure why it didn't work.

I'd GUESS that at idle the low impedence injectors won't burn up the ECU drivers. That is most likely to happen at high load, not idle. Did you see the word GUESS?

Hey! It's running, and thats great. There's nothing wrong with using a low iimpedence harness in the car as long as the resistors are addressed at some time.

N1XRR

I've got an extra resistor pack for $5 + shipping if you want it.

ironpanther

I am going to look into picking one up locally but if that doesn't pan out I will let you know N1.

N1XRR

Good news!

Just an update, I found the wires that where cut/broken (the resistor pack wire was cut and taped up....but never spliced properly). Now, moving the CAS by hand I can get my injectors to fire! Tonight I will re-assemble the intake and if its early enough, I will attempt to start the car!

soundwavetsunami

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soundwavetsunami

I'm having the same bloody problems. I'm doing the 88 N/A (N327) to 88 TII (N332). I'm getting nada from the smallest/leftest jacks on the ecu. I've got spark, I've got fuel (in the fuel rail and everything), but no injector signal. The engine will run off of starter fluid, gas, hell- even 2-cycle oil will get it going for a while til it stalls out.

But this resistor pack you speak of, it's neccessary for the injectors to inject... no? Because I have a plug that bears a striking resemblence to the other half of that plug that hailers showed in that link that he spliced the 5 wires together. This plug is just hangingout right under my air box which is where the other plug is supposed to be. But it's not. Now what am I supposed to do with this plug currently? I really need to get this car running soon!

If it helps any I'm running the tan square injectors (550s). I believe they're the high impedance ones. Like I said, I need to know what to do as soon as possible, so I can get her done this weekend. Any help is greatly appreciated!

HAILERS

But this resistor pack you speak of, it's neccessary for the injectors to inject... no? Because I have a plug that bears a striking resemblence to the other half of that plug that hailers showed in that link that he spliced the 5 wires together. This plug is just hangingout right under my air box which is where the other plug is supposed to be. But it's not. Now what am I supposed to do with this plug currently? I really need to get this car running soon!
88888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888 88888888888888888888

If you have high impedence injectors.............What I would do is clip/snip/cut/remove the plug that went to the solenoid resistor package. Then I would by hook or by crook splice all FIVE wires together. One of the five is a black/yellow wire and should have 12v when the key is to ON or better. The other four feed 12v to the injectors. So you just solder all five together or if you have a really good pair of wire crimpers, crimp all five together. And insolate the splice/crimp when done. Done.

In your case, you DO NOT WANT to buy a solenoid resistor package. Just splice them together.

And yes, it is located just below your airbox.

soundwavetsunami

Ok, well before I cut the wires I ran little jumper cables between all the terminals and I tried that. The car comes to life and dies instantly. Even with some throttle play it won't do anything else.

But while reading through the FAQ I learned that I've got a 86-87 TII block with the tan injectors. This means that I've got low-impedance injectors which also means that I need to have the resistor pack, right? I'll be able to pick one up sometime within the next week, but for the meanwhile I'm just going to pick up some radioshack resistors so I can start weeding out some of the bugs and maybe a little joyride .

I'm looking for 2 10 ohm resistors one for each side of the plug going to the black/yellow right? Hopefully she'll be running tonight so I can get everything ready for Rotary Revolution next weekend!

ironpanther

the ten ohm resistor pack that we made from radio shack did not work. I don't know why but it didn't. Currently we are running the car with a home made bridge that just plugs into that jack and distributes power to all four injectors. If the car is dying immediatly you need to inpect your injectors for clogs and test them with straight 12v to see if the click which shows they still fire when energized.

soundwavetsunami

I had previously checked the injectors because that's what I thought my original problem was. But whats strange is that I have the same exact results from the 10 ohm resistors that I did from the little jumper wires, so I'm fairly confused. It's down to the point where I think I may just have gotten a bum ecu. It's like it had the idle maps were deleted or something, because I'll start it, but once I lay off the starter just putters out and dies.

HAILERS

I raise you one to B, and call you. Four aces here.

HAILERS

I'm looking for 2 10 ohm resistors one for each side of the plug going to the black/yellow right? Hopefully she'll be running tonight so I can get everything ready for Rotary Revolution next weekend![/QUOTE]88888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888 8888888888888

No. You need a 10ohm resistor for each injector. The stock unit uses what may look like just two resistors but, no that's not it. Each block in the stock package has 2X6ohm written on it. That means each block is two resistors of six ohms value each. Somewhere in the above post I attached a jpg of the stock unit.

HAILERS

Here's that jpg http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=33353 On the left of the jpg is the unit with the cover off. The center wire is the feed wire that feeds 12v from the black/yellow wire in the harness to the other four wires in the jpg. Those two blocks in the jpg represent two, six ohm resistors or if you will four six ohm resistors in all.

soundwavetsunami

Damn, you beat my king high.

Do you accept clothes?

soundwavetsunami

But seriously, I get the same results regardless of what type of resistor I use, whether or not they're in series or parallel, or if they're there at all. No matter what I do the car will start and die. Start and die. That's all I get. What could cause the engine to not idle at all or anything, even with throttle input?

ironpanther

If it is starting and dying with throttle input make sure you try the Floored gas on start up for about five to ten seconds to make sure its not flooded then try to start it. It took us a little while to get ours to idle.

soundwavetsunami

It's not that. I've tried everything I can think of, gone over everything at least twice and the car will start and putter out. Nothing changes, even when I swap out my homemade resistor pack for a bunch of jumper wires. Same outcome everytime. Do you guys have any clue as to what else I can check and/or try?

soundwavetsunami

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