AEM Tru-Boost setup?
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#8
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
To the orignal poster, you need to consider how you should ask a question.
Give people something to work with, a detailed question, and a few clues about your setup before you expect to get answers.
First, I assume you have read the instructions that come with the controller? If so, they will probably say that things like spring rate and gain need to be determined by experimentation. Start with the default settings and then carefully make small adjustments until you get the results you want.
Second, your car should not be running without the stock boost sensor, or at least not well. The only way it will work is if you have an aftermarket ECU, in which case you don't need an FCD.
Give people something to work with, a detailed question, and a few clues about your setup before you expect to get answers.
First, I assume you have read the instructions that come with the controller? If so, they will probably say that things like spring rate and gain need to be determined by experimentation. Start with the default settings and then carefully make small adjustments until you get the results you want.
Second, your car should not be running without the stock boost sensor, or at least not well. The only way it will work is if you have an aftermarket ECU, in which case you don't need an FCD.
#9
the boost controller came with a pressure sensor i had to use. a built in overboost protection is like a fcd right??
AEM’s TRU-BOOST Gauge-Type Controller includes everything you need, including an on-board 29 psig pressure sensor, built-in Overboost protection with two timed shutdown levels, a scramble boost setting and a low-side output for a warning light.
AEM’s TRU-BOOST Gauge-Type Controller includes everything you need, including an on-board 29 psig pressure sensor, built-in Overboost protection with two timed shutdown levels, a scramble boost setting and a low-side output for a warning light.
#10
You don't replace your stock boost sensor. You use it in addition to the new one. Put the stock one back on. The stock one tells the stock ecu what is going on. The new one tells the boost gauge what is going on. You need both.
Overboost protection is not like an FCD. The Tru-boost is not talking to the stock ecu in any way. The stock ecu is what is going to cut fuel. If you try to turn up your boost more than an extra psi or so, the stock ecu is still going to cut fuel. It's irrelevant what the AEM is set at if you can't reach it.
Reinstall the stock boost sensor and install a FCD. Then start playing. I seriously wouldn't even start your car right now! That's how dangerous that is!
Overboost protection is not like an FCD. The Tru-boost is not talking to the stock ecu in any way. The stock ecu is what is going to cut fuel. If you try to turn up your boost more than an extra psi or so, the stock ecu is still going to cut fuel. It's irrelevant what the AEM is set at if you can't reach it.
Reinstall the stock boost sensor and install a FCD. Then start playing. I seriously wouldn't even start your car right now! That's how dangerous that is!
#12
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Follow the vacuum diagram in the Tru-Boost instructions.
T it's MAP sensor line into the stock line going to the stock pressure sensor. Then generally the solenoid connects with one port to the wastegate, one port to the compressor. Or sometimes it just bleeds air from the line leading to the wastegate. Check the instructions.
T it's MAP sensor line into the stock line going to the stock pressure sensor. Then generally the solenoid connects with one port to the wastegate, one port to the compressor. Or sometimes it just bleeds air from the line leading to the wastegate. Check the instructions.
#13
here's the instruction http://www.aempower.com/images/produ...%2030-4350.pdf i did exactly what they said for the vac lines but i dont see where to T it off for the stock boost sensor.
#14
well what you need to do is CUT the line, from the manifold of teh intake to the boost sensor the ecu uses, and install a T from where you cut it. one end comes from the manifold, one end goes to the boost sensor for the stock ecu and the other end goes to the gauge.
easy as PIE. sweet delicious apple pie.
easy as PIE. sweet delicious apple pie.
#15
Autozone sells those plastic tee's in various sizes and vacuum hose is also fairly cheap there. They're off the shelf items. Get a hose and tee that mate with each other. Fit snuggly is what I mean.
See jpg for instructions.
Be SURE to reconnect the electrical plug back up to the stock boost/pressure sensor.
See jpg for instructions.
Be SURE to reconnect the electrical plug back up to the stock boost/pressure sensor.
#16
I hate to sound negative but if you seriously can't figure out where to get a vacuum source, whether it's from an unused vacuum nipple that has a cap on it, or whether it's from using a small tee on an existing rubber line, I honestly don't think you should attempt to play with any aspect of boost whatsoever. Leave your car alone! Study first!
#17
i hate to sound negative but if you seriously can't figure out where to get a vacuum source, whether it's from an unused vacuum nipple that has a cap on it, or whether it's from using a small tee on an existing rubber line, i honestly don't think you should attempt to play with any aspect of boost whatsoever. Leave your car alone! Study first!
#18
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I agree with rotarygod . There are so many vacuum diagrams floating around in this forums, and complete diagrams are in the Haynes/FSM. The AEM instructions are very clear.
Use figure 8 for your solenoid plumbing.
Use a small plastic vacuum T (auto parts store) to T into the line to the stock pressure sensor (passenger shock tower).
A word of warning: A boost controller is easy to install. Don't just crank up the boost because the moment you do, you will blow the engine. 8 PSI is your limit without an FCD. Just a bit higher then that and you need to upgrade the fuel system. The stock wastegate is too small so once you start upping the boost you will find that the result is very non-linear. Bring it past stock and you will start to experience creep and spikes.
Use figure 8 for your solenoid plumbing.
Use a small plastic vacuum T (auto parts store) to T into the line to the stock pressure sensor (passenger shock tower).
A word of warning: A boost controller is easy to install. Don't just crank up the boost because the moment you do, you will blow the engine. 8 PSI is your limit without an FCD. Just a bit higher then that and you need to upgrade the fuel system. The stock wastegate is too small so once you start upping the boost you will find that the result is very non-linear. Bring it past stock and you will start to experience creep and spikes.
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