add coolant light/buzzer stuck on?
#1
add coolant light/buzzer stuck on?
my damn radiator is FULL of coolant, car is not eating coolant, no coolant leaks, no bubbles in coolant with the cap off, water temp regular...
I JUST DROVE 60 MILES WITH THE COOLANT BUZZER ON AND I HATE LIFE NOW. I TRIED TO GROUND THE COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR WIRE AND THE BUZZER STILL WOULD NOT TURN OFF. HOW CAN I TURN THIS DAMN THING OFF ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY
I JUST DROVE 60 MILES WITH THE COOLANT BUZZER ON AND I HATE LIFE NOW. I TRIED TO GROUND THE COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR WIRE AND THE BUZZER STILL WOULD NOT TURN OFF. HOW CAN I TURN THIS DAMN THING OFF ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY
#2
Grounding the wire is how you test it to make sure it's working.
If it's topped off, you've bled the air, and you don't have any air in the coolant system when you check it (after it's cooled, of course), then the sensor probably went bad. Look in the Parts for Sale forum, I'm sure someone parting a car out would send you one. They do go bad occasionally.
-=Russ=-
If it's topped off, you've bled the air, and you don't have any air in the coolant system when you check it (after it's cooled, of course), then the sensor probably went bad. Look in the Parts for Sale forum, I'm sure someone parting a car out would send you one. They do go bad occasionally.
-=Russ=-
#5
Originally posted by SonicRaT
Grounding it will shut it up.
Grounding it will shut it up.
Originally posted by SonicRaT
If that doesn't work, chances are you've got a bad solder joint, or a short somewhere.
If that doesn't work, chances are you've got a bad solder joint, or a short somewhere.
#6
I don't have my Haynes manual with me, but IIRC grounding the sensor wire is how you test to make sure the buzzer is working... You should be able to bypass it by jumpering between the two contacts on the sensor. Just don't leave it that way for long, because we all know how well RX-7s take to overheating.
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
#7
Super Raterhater
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It doesn't have two contacts. It works as a switch, when the coolants filled up, it provides negative to the 'bottom' of the sensor, when it gets low, that negative path is broken, and the alarm sounds.
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#8
SOLD THE RX-7!
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are you grounding the sensor wire or the wire that goes to the ECU?.... grounding the sensor wire isn't going to do anything.... ground the part that goes to the ecu
(assuming you cut or undid the sensor wire somewhere...)
(assuming you cut or undid the sensor wire somewhere...)
#9
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Turn the key on. Wait til the buzzer buzzes. Disconnect the sensor on top of the radiator at its bullet connector. Touch the half of the bullet connector that belongs to the harness to a confirmed ground. The buzzer should stop buzzing in a few moments.
If it did not stop buzzing....then that wire is open b/t the bullet connector and the combination meter. IF it were shorted to ground somewhere it would not buzz.
If it did not stop buzzing....then that wire is open b/t the bullet connector and the combination meter. IF it were shorted to ground somewhere it would not buzz.
#10
yes thank you hailers.
i suppose i have an open circuit because last night i disconnected the sensor at the bullet plug and tried to ground it. the buzzer would not go off.
where is the actual buzzer? i just wanna remove the ****ing thing and use my idiot lights.
i suppose i have an open circuit because last night i disconnected the sensor at the bullet plug and tried to ground it. the buzzer would not go off.
where is the actual buzzer? i just wanna remove the ****ing thing and use my idiot lights.
#13
Lives on the Forum
Settle down, Jacob, it'll be all right...
Isn't there a buzzer in the CPU also? Or is that the "smaller" sounding buzzer I'm thinking about?
Anyway, if you've got the meter cluster out, cut the brown wire (or see if you can find the closest connector), and ground the sucker. If the buzzer stops, you have an open between there and the radiator. If it doesn't stop, either something else is making it go off, or something's screwy/ shorted in the cluster. Cut the wire in a good place to get to again, so that when you fix the system, all you have to do is splice it back together again...
Isn't there a buzzer in the CPU also? Or is that the "smaller" sounding buzzer I'm thinking about?
Anyway, if you've got the meter cluster out, cut the brown wire (or see if you can find the closest connector), and ground the sucker. If the buzzer stops, you have an open between there and the radiator. If it doesn't stop, either something else is making it go off, or something's screwy/ shorted in the cluster. Cut the wire in a good place to get to again, so that when you fix the system, all you have to do is splice it back together again...
#19
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Originally posted by jacobcartmill
i got pissed and just ripped the little buzzer out with a screwdriver.
i got pissed and just ripped the little buzzer out with a screwdriver.
Keep in mind that if you're looking where you should be (the road) you'll notice a buzzer well before you notice a light, particularly during a sunny day. Considering how important oil and coolant levels are in a rotary (hence the warning system), a sudden failure of a coolant or oil hose could really ruin your day...
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