Jake87fc

Hi, im looking into a modern ecu to run my tII, my problem is id love a haltech 2500 but its almost twice the price as the adaptronic 2000 units. Does anyone know if adaptronics are more reliable than in the past and if extra 800~usd for the haltech 2500 is worth it? Ive tried searching but i couldnt find much

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i've been doing a dive on ECU's in 2020, and here are some opinions. my back ground is basically with the stock stuff, and the older haltechs (pre Elite)

Haltech Elite, its expensive! the software adds a bunch of new stuff, and its pretty cool, but its also clunky and the little help screen that was there for the platinum stuff is gone. with Haltech i'm having software fatigue, every 6 months they have some shiny new thing that you need to learn, and i would rather drive my car than learn software....
Motec M84, i know what you're thinking, but its cheaper than the haltech. software is on the face less straight forward, but they use a lot of hotkeys, and the help screens are really good, once you learned Motec, it would be faster.
Link. its cheap. seems to work great, the guides and stuff seem really good. ecu works differently, so i don't really get it. they also have some interesting options, there is a plug in FD unit, and the Kurofune which plugs in using an HKS Fcon harness which is interesting. the unit is kind of expensive though.
Megasquirt. its not cheap anymore, and since its open source i'm not sure what you get and where the instructions are and stuff like that.
Power FC: price is ok, and its accurate, but tuning it is either in Japanese or limited english
Adaptronic: i didn't really look at these, i had a plug in for the S4 but it took an ECU that could run everything and then set it up so that it didn't run anything! WTF? i need to run the ACV here, and the ECU can do it, but i'd have to rewire the plug in unit to do it, doorstop!

in summary; in 2020 there are no standout good choices.

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

Most modern aftermarket ECUs these days are all pretty good, and most have the same feature sets and capabilities at the same price points - so the decision really comes down to budget and who is going to do the tuning and installation/wiring work?

So the 1st question you need to ask before comparing aftermarket ECUs is who is going to tune it? If you're going to hire a tuner to do it for you, you should ask each candidate tuner what their preferences are, and ask them to explain why. The answers to those questions will help guide you on which ECU platform is right for you, and give you some insights into the tuner's competencies.

Dak

Not trying to hijack as I too have an interest in this. What about FuelTech? Anybody know anything about them. I've heard a few people in the ECU forum say good things and some high HP drag rotaries use them but that's about all I know. Price wise the FT600 is the same price range as the Elite 2500.$2599 w/o harness. $2878 w/10ft unterminated harness. The FT550 is $ 1699 w/o harness $1897 w/10ft unterminated harness.

97fd3s

I bought a modular in late 2017. One of the first units.
It had a map sensor logic problem.
fast forward to 2020, HP academy have a modular on their FD. Same problem.
I went Link and have only blown 3 engines since then.
But seriously since Haltech bought Adaptronic there is very little going on with the modular ECUs.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

how do you like your link?

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

I absolutely LOVE my Link - very quick learning curve, it didn't take me all that long to figure out how to get productive tuning with it, and I'm no tuning whiz. This is thanks to its top notch user interface & tuning software/tools, built in comprehensive help files (literally EVERY setting on the platform has a help file to explain it - just hit F1 key!), and a top notch customer support forum with support engineers promptly answering your questions, taking into account the time zone lag as they are based in New Zealand.

As for capabilities, it does everything I need it to do with a little I/O to spare. I've got the wired-in Fury G4+. It's running the usual 4x fuel injectors, 4x smart coils, a GM DBW throttle body, 2x E-fan outputs (integrated with the OEM FD fan wiring so I have 3 effective fan speeds), Mazda OMP support (this uses up 4x outputs + 1 analog input), etc.. Since it is DBW, I was also able to get the Link to support cruise control functions using the OEM cruise control switch gear, brake & clutch switches, and speedometer sensor inputs. In terms of control functionality and engine protection features it does everything that the AEM Infinity in my FC does.

Another nice Link feature is you can test every single I/O device with the software - just put that output into its test mode, and test functionality of your FIs, coils, fans, etc.. This was great to have after I completed the harness rewire project. Contrast that with the AEM Infinity on my FC, which requires you to replace the normal firmware with a diagnostics only firmware to run those tests and then swap back to the normal firmware to drive the car again. It also has a bunch of features that I'm not using, such as dual fuel tables (e.g., for E85/gas)

Comparing the AEM Infinity to the Link G4+ Fury, the only advantage I see in the AEM is in its ability to log to a up to a 64Gbyte USB stick. Both can log everything you want to on a laptop, but lacking a laptop the Link's "ECU logging" feature is limited to its internal memory. Don't recall what that limit is, but if used for about a dozen of the most critical logged items (e.g., lambda, MAP, etc) at a reasonable sample rate of say 25Hz, it will retain roughly the last 1-1/2 hours of driving from when you download it off the ECU.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

thanks, and cool

i remember in the bad old days the whole output side of the haltech would shut down, and the datalog wouldn't show it because it just was from the software!

Jake87fc

Ive just been seeing lots of youtubers running adaptronic and i like the engine protection features and things they have much like haltech, but way cheaper. But I dont want it to crap out on me if they tend to. Ill look into link and see what they offer. I plan on wiring myself and tuning myself conservatively until i get it to a tuner.

Nosferatu

Megasquirt..support from rotary guys is slim now on this forum...the rotory guy on this forum that was developing the software in connection with the main software writer disappeared( last logged on here in early 2017).. and that main software guy is holding the software so it isn't open source unless you go to firmware from 10 yrs ago...hardware side is advancing but the software is not...he won't add any features like generic support for running the MOP stepping motor.and as mentioned it isn't cheap anymore..even the solder it yourself version of the MS3 is a good chunk of change and you do a lot of work to just plug it in to the car....official forum support is OK depending on what issue you are trying to get resolved..MS3 Pro and ultimate use real quality connectors but they are expensive and sometimes reading the forums you wonder if the quality is questionable compared to the DIY units that are proven...microsquirt has to the best bang for your buck in a basic ecu but depending how you configure it you are left with one or two outputs at the most (if you don't run the cas and go with a crank toothed sensor)....forgot to add, factor in another 100 plus bones for the tuning software (but one of the better user interfaces out there)...the free version is cut right down .
that's my take on it.

Jake87fc

The big one for me is engine protection features as i want my fc to be reliable (aka no overheating and fuel starvation). Im planning a 3-350hp build in the distant future, but for now its gonna be mostly stock but with an ecu cause i cant handle the 80's junk that runs it right now. Does anyone know if theres a huge engine protection difference between brands? I know haltech and adaptronic are pretty good

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

so the Power FC has a revlimiter and an overboost cut. it also has warnings for things like knock, but the wire it uses is on a JDM car so the default install may not use it in the USA. overheating you can do, but you need to put it in the map.

the Haltech can do DTC's like a modern stock ecu. it can do a check engine light if you have the pins for it. the Default Elite 1000 map for the FD is out of pins to do a CEL so something needs to be removed to do it. the ecu also only does protection on some things and not anything. i checked and fuel pressure and overheating are on the list, so you're good there, although again you need the pin available for the fuel pressure. you pick if its voltage and or an actual range, which is nice, although you need to know the acceptable range. again for overheating, you'd just bake that in the map. you get to choose levels, the default is that it just turns on the CEL, the next three levels you get to pick the boost, fuel, and ignition correction that it does. depending on the function you set it up in like 3 different places too, the current software added a bunch of nice functions, but it also made it complicated and less intuitive.

i didn't look at the Link, it does have something though. Motec does too, i mention the Motec because the M84 is cheaper than the Haltech. interestingly Haltech is cribbing the Motec software, they look very similar.

at this point i'm actually leaning towards the PFC, its already setup for the car, its accurate. my car is already running an FD ecu, so change over is easy for me

97fd3s

Link has all the protection you need.
Lean out, fuel pressure, boost cut and you can add oil pressure sensor and cut that too. Boost by gear so that you don’t break your trans in 3rd gear( just dial down the boost a bit at peak torque in 3rd) and with rotary it doesn’t just cut the fuel or spark it cuts both.

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

^What he said about engine protections on the Link. Also he forgot to add that you can set up general purpose (GP) protections, so basically if you have a sensor monitoring any parameter, you can easily program protections for it - i.e., coolant temps too high or too low, impose the rev limits/cuts.

Forgot to mention - the Link also supports 2x knock sensors (OEM narrow band or Bosch generic wide band types), which can be used to retard timing if knock is detected. Although I wired mine up for the 2x Bosch sensors, I haven't played with that feature yet.

KYPREO

Features vs price Link wins hands down.

The Fury G4X has more features and inputs and outputs than the Haltech Elite and Adaptronic Modular and is cheaper. And it's made in New Zealand with excellent build quality/low failure rates. Out of the box you get traction control, advanced torque management etc whereas you have to pay a lot more to get these on the Haltech 2500T and on the Modular you need to buy additional input/output modules.

The software takes a little getting used to, but has a lot of customisation built in with the ability to create virtual inputs and outputs. I prefer the UI of the Haltech software, but the Link is fine when you get the hang of it.

The Link documentation and support forum is also excellent. So is Haltech for that matter. Adaptronic...well, support used to be good.

HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

I have a Link Monsoon G4X on my FC, worth every penny. Has a ton of safeties and isn't a rip-off like the Haltech, rotary people are sleeping on this ECU. Very beginner-friendly if you're just getting into tuning too! Probably the best support on the market alongside with detailed documentation. You can technically have any safety you want and aren't restricted much based on the tier of ECU you're buying unlike Haltech lol. My setup is basic, the only sensors I have right now are coolant temp, IAT, MAP, Wideband, and Fuel Pressure. Those alone can do a ton to make your car run right. The ECU cost me around $985 but for what you're paying for, it's so easy to work with and even wire by yourself. The next ECU I'd probably head to is the Megasquirt3 or 2 if you're handy, The MS has a lot of great feature, but the development of the MS platform has slowed down.

97fd3s

Lifetime warranty on the Link. Try getting Adaptronic to do that.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i would never go MS. ever. its a pain in the *** and the support is a pain in the ***. the software runs on java and is very slow. also, they sell you get cheap components if they come in a kit.

HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

bro what...first off the firmware is based off of C, secondly Tuner Studio is written in Java and I have never had it freeze up on me once mind you TS has one of the most friendliest UIs with essentially lots of support and really sophisticated closed loop strategies...

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Does the Link has a self learning/tuning option?

HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep

Yes it does, they have a “quick tune” and “fuel mixture map” feature which will help dial in your main fuel table.

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

Of those 2 options, I've found the "Mixture Map" more useful for road tuning purposes with my Link G4+. To effectively use the "quick tune" feature, you really need to be on a dyno that can maintain a constant load over the full range of RPMs, which isn't easy to do on the street. With the mixture map, you just need to know how to set up the tool to correctly filter & parse your logged data so you don't end up with garbage fuel map corrections. Once you figure that out, its just a simple iterative process - drive & log data, run the Mixture Map tool, review/accept changes, rinse & repeat.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Haltech tech has been trying to sort out the onboard map issue, and suppose-ably a permanent fix has been sorted out on this round of ecus.

At the moment for every 100 units we sell here, 1-2 need repairs. Quite often this is seen from electrical surges. An easy fix if you have a broken map sensor is just wiring up an external unit as you would with the most other units. I personally ran an older model for over 7 years on one of my cars, an FC( which makes over 600rwhp FYI).

newtgomez

The Haltech is well worth the money imo. The DBW support, engine protection, and sensor features are all very intuitive if you spend a few minutes looking at the software. If there's anything that needs to be discovered about the software or hardware, ESP has a help section that goes in to deep detail about every single function the software has and lots of good bits about how sensors work. It also has a very easy wiring diagram to understand which every input/output can be tracked through the ecu on whether it can be used on a function or not and if you use their pre-made harnesses, the colors match in the software and on the pinout and you have a very effective wiring diagram with real time voltage and signal read outs. The newest update also has given support with automatic transmissions and torque management, and traction control has been around for quite a while. You get what you pay for in an ecu essentially. The only gripe I have with it is that it could have a signal scope feature, but it's not super critical since you can pick up an oscilloscope for 100 bucks nowadays and you also have to buy an external wideband controller which actually isn't too bad as frying an internal wideband controller on an ecu could trash an ecu. With all that said, Link allegedly makes great ecus and Motec makes excellent ecus as well.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the Motec M84 is actually cheaper than the Haltech Elite you need to run all the fun stuff. its not a big difference, but its there.

the Motec software is really simple and straightforward too, its basically the same as the haltech, but its implemented better, imo