90 Streetported 13B + Carb
#1
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Just Looking Around
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Fort Benning, Ga./ Anna, Tx.
90 Streetported 13B + Carb
What is everything I need to put a Holley Carburetor on my freshly rebuild 13b? I know I'll need the Racing Beat modified Holley carburetor (600 CFM) and the Racing Beat 13B 6-Port intake manifold , but what else do I need? Is it gonna be worth the trouble? I have a very aggressive streetport and I'm only using a small percent of what it could be. Anybody know of any other carb/intake setups they make for my car and how much they are?
thanks
kleach
thanks
kleach
#4
what's your reasoning for going to carb?
The long runner design of the stock manifolds takes into account the dynamic loading of the intake charges as they build up on the back side of the rotor in the runner only to be under slight pressure as the next chamber is opened. All the carb intakes I've seen are far too short to utilize this and therefore are down about 10 or so free HP from the stock long runner design. They make up for that with the lack of resistance down the long throat and through the afm crap. My solution to that is eliminate the restriction. (custom single bore TB, intake plenum, and possibly intermediate intake manifold)
People usually run carbs on cars intended to only use the very top end of the powerband for their ease in narrow powerband tuning. Getting a carb to run right throughout the whole rpm range is a pretty tough chore to get done. Most racing applications running carbs are WOT tuned and run like **** otherwise. All the SCCA guys I've talked to over the years running carbs have a hell of a time getting it to idle right or even behave in traffic. Not an improvement worth the 10hp you might get out of the very top end if you ask me. (in streetable trim that is)
Now, if you could make a custom long runner intake utilizing 4 webber side drafts and get them to behave for you.... I'd like to see it. (big power potential)
The simplicity of a venturi is hard to beat, but they're so damn tempermental when it comes to atmospheric changes. FI is much easier to live with, even considering its drawbacks.
The long runner design of the stock manifolds takes into account the dynamic loading of the intake charges as they build up on the back side of the rotor in the runner only to be under slight pressure as the next chamber is opened. All the carb intakes I've seen are far too short to utilize this and therefore are down about 10 or so free HP from the stock long runner design. They make up for that with the lack of resistance down the long throat and through the afm crap. My solution to that is eliminate the restriction. (custom single bore TB, intake plenum, and possibly intermediate intake manifold)
People usually run carbs on cars intended to only use the very top end of the powerband for their ease in narrow powerband tuning. Getting a carb to run right throughout the whole rpm range is a pretty tough chore to get done. Most racing applications running carbs are WOT tuned and run like **** otherwise. All the SCCA guys I've talked to over the years running carbs have a hell of a time getting it to idle right or even behave in traffic. Not an improvement worth the 10hp you might get out of the very top end if you ask me. (in streetable trim that is)
Now, if you could make a custom long runner intake utilizing 4 webber side drafts and get them to behave for you.... I'd like to see it. (big power potential)
The simplicity of a venturi is hard to beat, but they're so damn tempermental when it comes to atmospheric changes. FI is much easier to live with, even considering its drawbacks.
#5
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Just Looking Around
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Fort Benning, Ga./ Anna, Tx.
Thanks for the info. I thought that a carb would put up more with a streetported motor b/c you use more air/fuel. So what would be the best alternative for a daily driven FC? I want to make the most of the streetport.
#6
Most likely an s-afc and the stock system. How massive is the porting? My car runs on that combo but I'm encountering other problems from the hokey stock efi design. If you have the flow potential I ended up with you'll be looking at stand alone ecu in the near future. if you have a mild to mid sized port you should be just fine.
#7
Kleach,
Just buy my turbo setup once I get my 60-1 and Haltech installed. Hell I won't need the ecu after its all done and then all you need is my turbo and some custom work by Marvelspeed
Did you get your car back?
Just buy my turbo setup once I get my 60-1 and Haltech installed. Hell I won't need the ecu after its all done and then all you need is my turbo and some custom work by Marvelspeed
Did you get your car back?
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#8
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Just Looking Around
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Fort Benning, Ga./ Anna, Tx.
I have a streetport as aggressive as Marvelspeed could make it. So I should keep the efi and just get a s-afc. Then I could put the stock turbo II fuel pump and adjust it. Then when I can get some more money I can buy sjordan's turbo and ECU.
#13
I'm running a Holley and just got it some what tuned. I've got a Jay-Tech intake. To do this setup you need to run a distributer from a 1st gen. You also need a really high flow fuel pump, and a fuel pressure regulator. then supercoils. You also need to block off the secondary injector holes with plates. In order for the turbo to work with it you need to get a highhat that bolts to the top of the carb to bolt to the hardpiping. I suggest running a Holley 650, and buying the jet kit for it so you can get your A/F mixture right. you also need neoprene floats for the carb because at high turbo p.s.i the stock metal floats bend. I am running a streetport and all that mess also. The reason I went carb is because I had the hot start problem and now I don't. I have also heard that I can get more out of my FC this way.
#14
On another note, I am not a pro, I came into this blind and after a few days of tuning my car runs great. My car idles fine and everything. I did retard my timingto allow my car to get more performance so now my car lopes at idle (like a big domestic V8)! I am now at the point where I need to buy race plugs, and MSD ignition cuz my high boost is blowing out my plugs.
#18
OOOPPs! I meant to say the Primaries. A carb setup is the best bang for your buck. It is easier to tune in my eyes now that I know what I'm doing. If you went Haltech you would have to buy it and a damn laptop with the right stuff to run Hatech.
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13b, 600, 600cfm, buy, carb, carburator, carburetor, cfm, hot, parts, problem, put, start, streetported, tuning