89 TII HKS TID installed now wont idle help please
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89 TII HKS TID installed now wont idle help please
my stock TID was cracked and caused a really rough idle. so my father saw this issue and gracefully bought me a HKS TID from racinglab.com... i have installed the intake and now the car will not hold an idle... ... but the instructions are in japanese so i went off of the illustration to install the product and now the car will not idle and when i drove(2 miles down the road) the car, it would build full boost but will stutter severely and feels like its only running off one rotor...during this whole process the car has had a constant coolant leak that i cannot locate off the back of the motor that will run down the transmission.. i am highly frustrated as this car constantly has problems that have only started in the last few months... ay input is highly welcomed and much appreciated
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The coolant leak is more than likely coming from one of the coolant lines that connects the heating unit to the engine block (they are located in that area). The TID I have never installed one so I cannot comment on that.
Do you have an FCD? Maybe with that upgrade you need one? Perhaps your experiencing fuel cut? Or perhaps you need to check for other vacuum leaks or adjust you idle with the upgrad..
Do you have an FCD? Maybe with that upgrade you need one? Perhaps your experiencing fuel cut? Or perhaps you need to check for other vacuum leaks or adjust you idle with the upgrad..
Last edited by rotorforce; 04-05-06 at 07:20 PM.
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Do you have an atmospheric venting blow off valve, or the stock recirculating one? My friend has a supra and he had similar problems trying to use a stock bov without a check valve. I'm not familiar with the hks TID but i'm assuming it doesnt have a place to put a recirculating vacuum line.
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sounds like a bad vaccum leak to me..............recheck everything and try to find the leak ( i recommend you use CARB cleaner to spray it on the TID.) have someone IN the car trying to maintain an idle and spray the carb cleaner on the TID and when the idle rises then you will find the leak. As far as the coolant leak check the hoses that are in the back of the motor and make sure the clamps are on right and that the hoses are intact.
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well the tube going from the turbo to the bov is uh well severely cracked... i believe this to be the problem... as for the BOV question.. it is the stock recirculating one but it does have a hose and fitting to send it right back into the intake.. and as for pics ill do my best but i cannot promise anything... so anyone know where i can find a replacement pipe...???
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ok
#1 puting a new TID on ur s5 is a) gona increase the boost to 11-12 psi
if you dont have a FCD then this is ur stutter problem, Get one ( FCD) this is your only solution for this
#your car wont idol if its stock BOV is now venting into the atmosphere, i know you said it was plumbed back in but get a new pipe for it
3# u'll proably have to take the IC off adn replace one (or more) of your coolant hoses
have fun and buy a FCD, youll love the boost once you can get it
PS i have a metal TID i made from a 3" mandrel MS bend i welded a small piece of pipe onto it and plumb my stock BOV back into it and this solved my idol problem
#1 puting a new TID on ur s5 is a) gona increase the boost to 11-12 psi
if you dont have a FCD then this is ur stutter problem, Get one ( FCD) this is your only solution for this
#your car wont idol if its stock BOV is now venting into the atmosphere, i know you said it was plumbed back in but get a new pipe for it
3# u'll proably have to take the IC off adn replace one (or more) of your coolant hoses
have fun and buy a FCD, youll love the boost once you can get it
PS i have a metal TID i made from a 3" mandrel MS bend i welded a small piece of pipe onto it and plumb my stock BOV back into it and this solved my idol problem
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#1 puting a new TID on ur s5 is a) gona increase the boost to 11-12 psi
if you dont have a FCD then this is ur stutter problem, Get one ( FCD) this is your only solution for this
Is that true about increasing boost? Why would it do that, just because its less resistance on spinning the turbo or what? Since the wastegate spring is at like 8 psi or whatever, wouldnt it just keep it there(assuming no boost creep)?
if you dont have a FCD then this is ur stutter problem, Get one ( FCD) this is your only solution for this
Is that true about increasing boost? Why would it do that, just because its less resistance on spinning the turbo or what? Since the wastegate spring is at like 8 psi or whatever, wouldnt it just keep it there(assuming no boost creep)?
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Do you have a actual boost gauge? Because if you say "full boost" and are just going off what the factory gauge says then it could be way over. If the ceiling on the gauge is 8psi, and your car is hitting 10psi, then it will just sit at the top.
I'd get a real gauge so you know what's going on in there.
I'd get a real gauge so you know what's going on in there.
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well if the bov isn't plumbed back into the TID which i thought there was a hole for on those? you either can take it off and put the stocker back on, or suck it up and buy a bov on a stock charge pipe, OR you could get the hole made in the TID so you could plumb the bov back in. IMO i'd get a bov on the stock charge pipe they are easy to come by.
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well no pictures yet but on my test run where i discovered the problems, it sounds amazing... like an f1 car and the relief valve is much more pronounced amazing stuff now i cant wait to get it running correctly
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