2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

89 N/A running rich

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Old 03-31-02 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
journey's Avatar
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89 N/A running rich

Ok, i have an 89 NA(think its a GXL, not sure . . . anyone know how to check for sure? the car itself has no markings and from the vin i couldn't find any info, but it has the same rims as the GXL's other people post pictures of, which possibly means nothing).

I checked the Error codes by shorting the one plug, engine light turns off and then never comes back on so i'm assuming that means no error codes.

I adjusted the TPS, also just replaced the spark plugs. I might replace the wires, need more money, but i think they've been replaced at least once, they are bosch 7mm(i'm guessing they have been replaced because they are bosch)

Having a slight idle problem, but i think its due to a vaccum leak, because if i depress the brake sometimes that effects the idle. As soon as i get a chance i'm going to try the trick where you spray carb cleaner on the vaccume lines(if anyone knows a better way would be appreciated).

I'm assuming its running rich because when i replaced the spark plugs yesterday the tips of all were black to some degree. Any idea how many miles i should run the new plugs before pulling one out to check it?

What else can i check to diagnose the rich condition, or if i check the plugs and they are clean after a number of miles, i'll just assume it was rich before i replaced the plugs and fixed the TPS, and it's all better now.

thanks

Erik
Old 03-31-02 | 07:16 PM
  #2  
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I am having your same ******* problem and non of these people will respond to my damn question. Anyway, does yours smoke some when it was/is running rich? Mine does and plus how did you check your tps? Did you make the thing the tell you to on this? Anyway PM me sometime I need some serious help on the tps thing cause I don't want to fry anything and I want to fix this ritchness thing. Oh yeah when I hit brakes my IDLE drops too DAMMIT. ANyone, help?!!
Old 03-31-02 | 08:26 PM
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Bumpity ******* bump you all. I mean come on does anyone have any ideas. Oh and does anyone have a diagram of the vacum hoses?
Old 03-31-02 | 09:01 PM
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Aight someone is going to loose an EYE, where the hell is my fork!!!!!!!!!
Old 03-31-02 | 09:12 PM
  #5  
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From: Springfield, MO
mine is doing the same i get about 5 mpg, and it smells like gas, think i might have to replace the PD
Old 03-31-02 | 09:17 PM
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Journey,

It sounds like you're on the right track in diagnosing your richness problem.

Here's a page with the how-to on 88+ Engine codes:

http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm

If you're running NGK plugs, change them every 10-15K miles. If you wanna check to see if it's running rich, I'd say pull one every oil change (since you're in there anyway) and see. Remember, you will have a little black residue, but the plugs shouldn't have layers of it.

TPS adjustment is best done with a DMM. Get one. Using the dual light method is asking to blow your ECU, ESPECIALLY if you make the lights yourself.

If you're still convinced you're running rich, check your codes, get an air/fuel meter to be double sure, then look at replacing your o2 sensor.

GeFunk,

Relax! Having a bad day are we? Go get some, for cryin' out loud...

Nobody gets paid or is sitting here specifically to help YOU or anyone else.

NOBODY on here is OBLIGATED to help anyone else. Using foul language toward the whole board because you got no replies will just get you ignored even more.

Talkin' like that, do you really wonder why no one answers your questions??

- JB

Last edited by Taranis; 04-01-02 at 12:32 AM.
Old 03-31-02 | 09:36 PM
  #7  
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O2 sensor. Check that FIRST. I am replacing mine next weekend. How is your idle? If it bounces, cycles, or is unsteady, then it could be a TPS problem. If there is a strong gas smell from the engine, you have a PD or fuel line leak. If the exhaust or oil smells of gas, you are running rich and more than likely, a new o2 sensor is needed. Good luck you guys, and try to not get too worked up over it. Hey, you can't detonate when running rich!!!!
Old 03-31-02 | 09:41 PM
  #8  
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Re: 89 N/A running rich

Originally posted by journey
I checked the Error codes by shorting the one plug, engine light turns off and then never comes back on so i'm assuming that means no error codes.
Erik
That was a good place to start but I believe if the check engine light was never on when you are driving it, it was not reading any error code.
Originally posted by journey
I adjusted the TPS, also just replaced the spark plugs. I might replace the wires, need more money, but i think they've been replaced at least once, they are bosch 7mm(i'm guessing they have been replaced because they are bosch)
Erik
When adjusting the TPS did you use the right tool? Those things seem to be tricky to get right. On the spark plug wire idea if you do buy some wires I think the Racing Beat Ultra wires are great!!!
Originally posted by journey
Having a slight idle problem, but i think its due to a vaccum leak, because if i depress the brake sometimes that effects the idle. As soon as i get a chance i'm going to try the trick where you spray carb cleaner on the vaccume lines(if anyone knows a better way would be appreciated).
Erik
Instead of using carb cleaner (messy) use Windex less messy same result. Our cars are old and have been under heat it never hurts to get a good set of black silicone tubing from hose techniques
Originally posted by journey
I'm assuming its running rich because when i replaced the spark plugs yesterday the tips of all were black to some degree. Any idea how many miles i should run the new plugs before pulling one out to check it?
Erik
When you say black do you mean wet black, dry black (but heavy) or a even black that is almost brown?
Originally posted by journey
What else can i check to diagnose the rich condition, or if i check the plugs and they are clean after a number of miles, i'll just assume it was rich before i replaced the plugs and fixed the TPS, and it's all better now.
Erik
Take the car to a smog station it costs $10 to do a pretest and see what you are running at, at both idle and higher up RPM. I am not the Mazda guru but if you want super great info RETed is THE MAN!!! he knows it all. (you Rule Ted )
Old 04-01-02 | 01:20 AM
  #9  
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Re: Re: 89 N/A running rich

Originally posted by Rotary Racer
When adjusting the TPS did you use the right tool? Those things seem to be tricky to get right. On the spark plug wire idea if you do buy some wires I think the Racing Beat Ultra wires are great!!!
I used the 2 LED method, where you turn it till both are on, and then back just enough to turn the light off. I'm trying to get my hands on something that will measure voltage and ohms, but it looks like untill i get back to my parents house(not for at least a month) i wont have access to one.

Originally posted by Rotary Racer
Instead of using carb cleaner (messy) use Windex less messy same result. Our cars are old and have been under heat it never hurts to get a good set of black silicone tubing from hose techniques
Ok, I'll use windex, that will still make the engine surge a little correct? And what do you mean by silcion tubing, you mean just replace all the vaccum hoses? What kinda of $$ am i looking at there?

Originally posted by Rotary Racer
When you say black do you mean wet black, dry black (but heavy) or a even black that is almost brown?
Well, i'll try and get a picture, but i'll try to describe the four sitting in front of me:

Trailing:
1: mostly grey, one of the 4 top pieces is light black
2: half of the top is grey, half is dark black. They grey kinda rubs off easy, the black doesnt, but i can scrape it off with a fingernail

Leading:
1: Mostly grey, but a much darker grey(maybee brown) than the trailing plug, some black
2: Dark grey like the other leading plug, and of the 4 top pieces 2 that are facing eachother(not touching) are black, some as before in terms of consistancy.


Thanks for any continued help

Erik
Old 04-01-02 | 10:33 AM
  #10  
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bump
Old 04-01-02 | 10:46 AM
  #11  
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replacing all of the vacuum hoses is more trouble than you probably want to get into right now. It requires removing the intake manifold and buying a lot of gaskets and other stuff you break or loose during the process. Most mechanics will have the equipment to tell you if you are running rich or not.

Gefunk! It was Easter cuz. The multimeter method has worked best for me. I used to do the lightbuld method but I kept getting a hesitation at high RPMs; the multimeter method had no ill effects. You need to test one of the wires on the TPS plug and adjust it untill it reads 1.00 volts. Can't remember which wire it is, but you can find that info easily. Remember 1.00 volts; not 1.04 or 0.97.
Old 04-01-02 | 01:05 PM
  #12  
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From: Victoria, BC, Canada
My '91 as well

Originally posted by journey
Ok, i have an 89 NA(think its a GXL, not sure . . . anyone know how to check for sure? the car itself has no markings and from the vin i couldn't find any info, but it has the same rims as the GXL's other people post pictures of, which possibly means nothing).

I checked the Error codes by shorting the one plug, engine light turns off and then never comes back on so i'm assuming that means no error codes.

I adjusted the TPS, also just replaced the spark plugs. I might replace the wires, need more money, but i think they've been replaced at least once, they are bosch 7mm(i'm guessing they have been replaced because they are bosch)

Having a slight idle problem, but i think its due to a vaccum leak, because if i depress the brake sometimes that effects the idle. As soon as i get a chance i'm going to try the trick where you spray carb cleaner on the vaccume lines(if anyone knows a better way would be appreciated).

I'm assuming its running rich because when i replaced the spark plugs yesterday the tips of all were black to some degree. Any idea how many miles i should run the new plugs before pulling one out to check it?

What else can i check to diagnose the rich condition, or if i check the plugs and they are clean after a number of miles, i'll just assume it was rich before i replaced the plugs and fixed the TPS, and it's all better now.

thanks

Erik
I'm working on the same problem, check out this tread as well...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=idle

I plan to check the throttle plates today as well as the TPS setting...

Let me know what you find.
Old 04-01-02 | 01:27 PM
  #13  
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From: College Station, Tx
I know my problem is my o2 sensor. My TPS is rock soild. I am just tired of giving HUGE backfires between every shift. Flames are cool though...
Old 04-01-02 | 02:36 PM
  #14  
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From: Home: Maine / College: Greensboro NC
I have always had a complex about reading my ecu? When you say a wire do you just mean any old peice of wire? And when you say ground it to the body, do you mean the anywhere on my car? Specifics = not a blown ecu
Old 04-01-02 | 03:06 PM
  #15  
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Same goddamn issue. My 3.5L Dodge Intrepid is much more fuel efficient than my RX7. Quite odd, really. i mean, its .4 liters off from being triple it's size. Pretty sad. I just had a rebuild too.... Mind you, its much better after the rebuild... i rarely backfire... but it still smells like a boat... and still has the shitty economy. Perhaps its O2 sensor time.
Old 09-14-02 | 04:38 AM
  #16  
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From: Antioch,CA
My Plugs are Thick Black Crust(not wet)

I was looking at a used engine and it has plugs which looked dry but had a crispy black layer of soot on them. There was a tiny amount of browness to the center insulator but mostly black thick layer of soot.

Does this mean this engine was running rich or was it burning oil?

How do you know the difference from an engine that is running rich or burning too much oil, when you only have the plugs to go on?

Dave
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