Dalamar

hello, i'm new here, I recently bought a 1989 rx7 conv with 59k miles on it. my problem is that when i go to put the top up, it beeps and and i can hear the motor "whir" but when i twist the switch down nothing. I'm not sure if its the switch or the motors.

Also i found out that according to carfax the car had 40k miles on it in 1993, soo only driven 19k miles in 12 years. Is there anything i should do to make sure it will last?

It has other electrical quirks too sometimes the power antenna works sometimes it doesn't, same with the headrest speakers, and the cruise doesn't work at all.

i've check the fuses.

Thank you!

Groshuk

Is it a fast beep or a slow beep? If it's a fast beep then you need to apply the ebrake. If it's a slow beep and nothing happens but you're sure you can heear the motor then the mechanism is broken somewhere and disconnected from the motor. If it is disconnected you can probably push the top back by hand.

beamer242

well the first one might be because the motors are disengaged... read in the fsm or your owners manual on how to reengage them.

the mileage probably is wrong unless its been parked for about 10 years.

as for the electrical problems.... welcome to the rx7 way of life lol. just trace back the wires and make sure nothing is shorting out. most of this info you can find in the fsm.

links to the fsm are in the FAQ stickied thread at the top.

Brian

Dalamar

When twusting the **** p it makes a slow beep, when i twist the **** down nothing noises at all


Its not wrong i just got off the phone with the previous owner, they used it on weekends when it wasn't raining, other than that it was garaged

I don't have an owners manual, but i do have the factory window sticker.

And I've tried to push the top back by hand, but it doesn't move.

Icemark

Check the power top diagnostic plug under the hood (front of the passengers strut tower) to see if the switch is providing output. You can also check the parking brake connection and the power at the same plug, as well as jumper the top closed if you need too.

Dalamar

I have no way to test it lol

is there a way to make it a manual top? or a way to test it?

Icemark

yeah, get a meter from radioshack or walmart or home depot and test it. Meter's are only $20-$30 for a basic mid level one.

Dalamar

thanx, moff to radioshack!

Wht90Rx7Conv

I have a 90 FSM. Let me know if you interested. PM me. Don't mess with the engagement of the motors till you have a FSM. There are 2 motors and you need to sync both or you're asking for troubles if you need to do this. Also the bolts to engage the motors can be easilly broken.

beamer242

you can download the fsm in the FAQ at the top of the 2nd gen forum.... no need to pm for one. yes do as icemark says... he is the reason that i know anything about vert.

Brian

Icemark

The 90 and 91 are wired different than the 88 and 89.

The top switch is in an entirly different location.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I think there's a 10 or 15 dollar meter at sears.

Dalamar

Well I tested everything and it looks like the switch is bad. However I cannot find one in a junk yard (I searched www.car-part.com too) and the dealership wants *gasp* $700 for the damn thing.

Do any of you out there know where to get one at a reasonable price?

The switch in my 89 is a multifunction switch that does the wipers, top, and hazard.

cheers!

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Icemark?

Icemark

I have 88-89 convertible wiper switches in stock at my webstore

Dalamar

before i order one is there away to jump the switch so i'll know for certain?

i didn't do the testing personally and would hate for it not to be the switch.

thanx

Icemark

Yeah at the diagnostic plug (mentioned and shown in the above post with the picture) found on the passengers shock tower under the hood.

Picture repeated here:



Key on, Jumper pin C to pin F, the top should open. To test close, jumper pin C to pin E.

That confirms the top motors are working and the wiring is intact.

Then with your digital multi-meter, If the key is on, and you turn the top switch to open, pin F should get 12+ volts on it. To check close, Pin E should have 12 vols on it. This confirms the switch works.

To confirm the parking brake lock out (the parking brake needs to be on, to work the top), pin B should have ground on it when the key is on and the parking brake is up.

Dalamar

Icemark you are my god.

thank you

Dalamar

i used a 600v wire for light kit connection, the c and f made sparks, started to melt the wire, but no top movement. does that confirm that the switch is bad? or do i need to try a different wire to jump it?

Icemark

Its less than 10 amps to run the top, so some 600 volt wire should have been fine.

Make sure you didn't confuse B with F.

If you get your multi-meter or test light and you probe F you should have 12+ volts on it when the key is on, and the switch is in the Open postion.

Dalamar

that did it, it makes 4 short beeps then 1 long beep, but the top doesn't move.

Icemark

And the parking brake is up, right???

Dalamar

yes

Icemark

Sounds like it is not the switch then. Normally though, it doesn't change beeps... you either get a fast beep or a slow beep.

Slow beep when it is working, fast beep if there is a problem.

You don't get any beeps when using the switch, right???

And the top is un latched???

Dalamar

i get no beeps when using the switch inside the car, the top is unlacted, the car is in neutral, the e brake is up all the way, key on, and when i jump the switch under the hood i get 4 slow beeps then 1 long beep then no sound.