89-91 flasher CPUs all have same problem, how to fix?
#28
Gabriel,
If you are looking for IceMark then you will have to seek him from the netherworld. Sadly, he passed away many years ago. What is the problem with your Body CPU?
Cheers,
George
If you are looking for IceMark then you will have to seek him from the netherworld. Sadly, he passed away many years ago. What is the problem with your Body CPU?
Cheers,
George
#29
Gen2n3 I am so sorry, i did not notice that on the profile, I purchase a 1991 convertible last week and the previous owner had a separate switch for the high and low beams, I would like to have the car back to factory condition using the original switch, i was reading and it looks like a common problems with the 2nd gen RX7 , can you wive some pointers how to fix the problem or do you know how can fix the CPU.
Thank you
Thank you
#30
Gabriel,
I recently had to repair my cpu a couple weeks ago. First thing to do is to go through the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM found here
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...cal_system.pdf.
If your problem isn't solved in the manual and you need to repair the computer, we can help you out with pictures, etc. Go through those procedures first and let us know if that helps you find the problem. If the problem is in one of the CPU boards, we will have you take pictures and see what we can do.
Have a good weekend
I recently had to repair my cpu a couple weeks ago. First thing to do is to go through the troubleshooting procedures in the FSM found here
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...cal_system.pdf.
If your problem isn't solved in the manual and you need to repair the computer, we can help you out with pictures, etc. Go through those procedures first and let us know if that helps you find the problem. If the problem is in one of the CPU boards, we will have you take pictures and see what we can do.
Have a good weekend
#31
Carrying Icemark's Torch
Gabriel,
First, let me congratulate you on the recent purchase of the 91 Vert. Second, welcome to the forum. Third, I offer some general advice: use the Search function, use grammar and syntax that would make your primary school teachers proud, and proof read before posting comments. Those may be hard to achieve when using a mobile app but it can be done.
On to the meat and potatoes: First, the Body CPU is a term that has 2 meanings: a) the entire assembly that has 2 circuit boards - the CPU #2 board and the flasher (CPU) board. And b) the CPU #2 board itself. If someone said he removed the Body CPU then that means the entire assembly was removed. If someone said his Body CPU is bad then that references the actual circuit board. If your turn signals and hazards have a problem then the Flasher CPU in the Body CPU (entire unit) may be bad. This was the point Icemark was trying to make in this thread.
Second, the main problem to troubleshoot a Body CPU is a lack of schematics - none exist. Repairs to the board are made by visual inspection. Sometimes they are easy and other time they are hard! Based upon my Body CPU (CPU #2) failures, the problem was the main IC chip. Replacement IC chips are no longer available so that would mean one would need scavenge one. Equally hard to find are the CPU #2 boards or the entire assembly. The entire unit is very costly - upwards of $350 as a new unit. Another thing to consider is that the Verts use a different Body CPU. The coupe uses a Body CPU designated as FC01. The vert uses a Body CPU designated as FC66. The reason for the difference would be the logic circuits for the convertible top. So, it is important that you find an FC66 type Body CPU!
Third, you can easily remove the Body CPU from the driver side kick panel (next to the fuse box) and open the long "surf board" panel. That reveals the Body CPU (CPU#2). Remove it from the box and inspect it for cold solder joints, electrolyte leakage from capacitors, swollen capacitors, or other electrical damage. It is also important to take photos of the board, especially if you are unfamiliar with identifying bad components. Share these photos with the forum and other members, like myself, may be able to identify a problem area.
Lastly, I would recommend leaving this thread and start a new one. This would document your specific repair needs and also allow Icemark's advice to remain eternal. He was a great asset to our community and we may honor his contributions by carrying that torch so others may benefit from it. This thread may be linked but out of respect to Icemark, I would no longer add any posts.
Cheers,
George
First, let me congratulate you on the recent purchase of the 91 Vert. Second, welcome to the forum. Third, I offer some general advice: use the Search function, use grammar and syntax that would make your primary school teachers proud, and proof read before posting comments. Those may be hard to achieve when using a mobile app but it can be done.
On to the meat and potatoes: First, the Body CPU is a term that has 2 meanings: a) the entire assembly that has 2 circuit boards - the CPU #2 board and the flasher (CPU) board. And b) the CPU #2 board itself. If someone said he removed the Body CPU then that means the entire assembly was removed. If someone said his Body CPU is bad then that references the actual circuit board. If your turn signals and hazards have a problem then the Flasher CPU in the Body CPU (entire unit) may be bad. This was the point Icemark was trying to make in this thread.
Second, the main problem to troubleshoot a Body CPU is a lack of schematics - none exist. Repairs to the board are made by visual inspection. Sometimes they are easy and other time they are hard! Based upon my Body CPU (CPU #2) failures, the problem was the main IC chip. Replacement IC chips are no longer available so that would mean one would need scavenge one. Equally hard to find are the CPU #2 boards or the entire assembly. The entire unit is very costly - upwards of $350 as a new unit. Another thing to consider is that the Verts use a different Body CPU. The coupe uses a Body CPU designated as FC01. The vert uses a Body CPU designated as FC66. The reason for the difference would be the logic circuits for the convertible top. So, it is important that you find an FC66 type Body CPU!
Third, you can easily remove the Body CPU from the driver side kick panel (next to the fuse box) and open the long "surf board" panel. That reveals the Body CPU (CPU#2). Remove it from the box and inspect it for cold solder joints, electrolyte leakage from capacitors, swollen capacitors, or other electrical damage. It is also important to take photos of the board, especially if you are unfamiliar with identifying bad components. Share these photos with the forum and other members, like myself, may be able to identify a problem area.
Lastly, I would recommend leaving this thread and start a new one. This would document your specific repair needs and also allow Icemark's advice to remain eternal. He was a great asset to our community and we may honor his contributions by carrying that torch so others may benefit from it. This thread may be linked but out of respect to Icemark, I would no longer add any posts.
Cheers,
George
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