Kyrune

first do a compression check, you might have carbon it there, i had similar problems and bought some sea foam from autozone and poured it in the crankcase and fuel tank, i suggest you change your oil, put in the whole bottle in the crankcase and another bottle in the fuel tank, but when you get it started keeping it running around 1-2,000 rpm. that should clean any carbon up. hope this works.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the injectors eventually get pits or foriegn objects like carbon and oil from the intake drift that plug the seats and cause them to leak, they usually don't leak much but enough that they can cause the engine to flood when warm.

injector cleaning is only about $12-15 each injector, depending if you have someone nearby who does them and is good and reliable then you could have them do it but there is a limited amount of cleaners that can clean these type of injectors. if you do a search on this forum i'm sure you can come up with a few recommended shops that can clean them and at a good price. usually takes about a week to have them cleaned, with shipping times.

to clean them they put the injectors in an ultrasonic bath while pulsing the injectors, this is equal to lapping in a valve in a piston engine. the ultrasonics will clean them out internally so the injectors flow consistently with the other injectors and seat them so they will not leak. the key to a fine tuned engine starts with injectors that are clean and synchronized from cleaning.

therotaryrocket

Couldn't I clean the carbon by letting a vaccum hose suck in about a half a gallon of water? The spark plugs make me think that it does have some carbon build-up, but it will start first thing in the morning after sitting overnight everytime so that's why I think compression is ok, or if I push start it.

edit: I'm up for the injector cleaning, i'll do some research. So supposedly it will stop the injectors from leaking or atleast the shop cleaning them can tell me if I need to replace one. How hard is it to take out the injectors? Sometimes the Haynes manual makes everything look easy but I know I can do it. That's awesome thank you so much, this will also improve how the car is running to right? I don't think it is as fast as it should be, maybe the throttle cable is loose or stretched out because it revs slow in neutral, but that could be because of the turbo spooling up but then again when full boost comes on (over 4.5k rpms) it still revs pretty slow, and in gear it seems like it should be faster. thnx

HAILERS

The slow to rev in neutral.......makes me think the Lead coil is not working. Idle the car and carefully pull one of the wires in the Lead coil assy partially out of its bore. If its sparking.....I'm wrong.

There is a FAQ at the beginning of this second generation site thats worth reading from front to back.

To install a fuel cut switch, do a search. Maybe put in Fuel Cut Switch and for a name, mabe NZCONVERTIBLE.

Stop runing the fuel lines by clamping them off. The most common way of unflooding is to pull the EGI Fuse in the engine bay. Personally I don't but that's the common approach. It's in the FAQ section or log on to Rotary Performance and the procedure is on their site.

If you spray starter fluid, spray it into the air filter. That's all that's required. You NEED to disable the fuel pump when doing that. It makes NO sense leaving the fuel pump active since the engine is already flooded. No sense at all. You spray starter fluid to clean out the residual fuel and then reactivate the fuel pump and spray/start again and hopefully it'll stay started/running.

Most likely the engine has low compression and that's why it floods. Just why was this car sitting for five years? There must have been a reason. A suggestion is that it was considered busted and not worth fixing. Just a suggestion. The remark about over heating after running for a few minutes makes me think that.

http://www.rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html

HAILERS

This thread on floohttp: //www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124906&highlight=fuel+cut+switchd ing.... The NZ tells how to install a fuel cut switch and Rotary Resurrection's comments at the very end are pertinent i.e. ....compression.