therotaryrocket

I did a little searching and found a few answers, but I still have a few questions. I drained the half tank of 5 year old gas out, and put about 2 gallons of new 93 octane fuel in there. After I drained the old fuel, (before I put new gas in...) I cranked it and it started spinning really fast then fired up and idled at like 900 rpms so I jumped on the gas pumping the pedal then it revved to 1200 and fluctuated around 1100-1200 rpms for about 10 seconds and died. That's when I left for about 15 minutes to get the gas to put in, when I came back I poured it in. Now the car won't start, it sounds like it wants to start and catches every now and then and spins pretty fast while cranking but it won't start. I removed the egi fuse and cranked it to try and deflood the engine incase it was flooded. I would remove the spark plugs, but my sparkplug socket I bought from autozone size 13/16" i think, wouldn't fit. What kind of sparkplug socket do I need? Besides the powersteering and A/C make the job hard. I was thinking the fuel filter was clogged but a new one costs like $35 dollars right? Then I would want to change it again after I got the car running...anybody got an old one I can have? I also sprayed some WD-40 into the intercooler, then later some carb cleaner because I didn't have starting fluid, no luck. What should I do? I really need to know how to remove the spark plugs, what socket do I need? Oh yeah, when I was draining the gas tank i removed a rubber plug underneath the sparetire well and ALOT of water poured out. Where would this water come from? Clogged passenger side hatch drain hose? One more thing worth mentioning, maybe it's having trouble starting because it is so freaking cold. Please help, thanks guys.

speed_monkey

They are hard to start in the cold. I would put a new battery in and change the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

therotaryrocket

how do i get the sparkplugs out?

Snack

is the inside of the tank rusty? could have cloaged sumthing..... mine 7 wuz sitting for 4 years b4 i started working on it and the tank was rusted to ****

therotaryrocket

so snack, what did you do about it? Did yours have any fuel in it while it sat? When I drained the gas on mine, the old gas looked good (obviously not very flammable:by smell) and the fuel was clean. I also think I smelled gas around the intake manifold, but that could be the carb cleaner dripping out of the intercooler.

Snack

well basicly i hadda get a new tank cuz the car was full of gas and when i looked inside all i saw was erossion. on top of a new tank. i need a new fuel pump and new injectors. the air flow meter was also no good, ur starter works so its not that.... i also changed the spark plugs.... thats about it and little by little i changed hose and stuff as they fell apart

therotaryrocket

ok, cool. Well just to confirm I went outside in the freezing dark and removed my hatch area carpet, insulation mat, and the fuel pump assembly to find the tank very clean with no corrision or rust inside. There wasn't much fuel which makes me think I should go get some more, but that looked like enough. I'd like to get those spark plugs out to examine them, i'm just going to have to buy another spark plug wrench. snack is your car turbo? Any other suggestions? water thermo switch or something like that? Please help, sorry for the long read(s).

rs_1101

okay, not necessarily in this order, but heres some suggs

change plugs oil and coolant. add HEET to the gastank (water remover) buy some fogging oil and spray into car prior to actual startup.
check for fuel pressure <-----
check for error codes
carb cleaner wont help u start.

after 5 years, theres a good chance that you could have had frozen seals.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it ran so i doubt the seals are sticking now.

1) add more gas, 2 gallons depending how the car is sitting may barely be reaching the pump and it could be pumping a tiny bit of gas and a lot of air, add about another 5 gallons and then retry it.

2) check fuel pressure, you could have a plugged up fuel filter or restriction in one of the lines.

3) add engine oil or MMO to the leading plug holes and crank it without the EGI fuse in place for a couple 5 second bursts then replace the fuse and try to start it, the initial oil you had has washed away so you need to redo it and keep it running this time for about 20-30 minutes idling or up to 1500 RPMs

4) if it still wont start then do a compression test on it, if it reads low then add some MMO or engine oil and retry the compression test, if a rotor is lower than 75 then it would flood out that chamber when trying to start, if you can't get it over 75 psi with oil then you may have some carbon sticking the apex seal and you may have to do a treatment to try and clean it out if you can get the engine running.

wtdpn115

spark plug isn't hard... use one size bigger then 13/16
when u said u unflooded it did u just pull the fuse and cranked it....did u push the pedal to the ground while cranking it?
i think fuel filter cost like 14 or 15bux

therotaryrocket

I did change the oil, I will add more gas, and I don't think changing my coolant right now is going to help. I will try to remove the spark plugs today, if I do I will add oil in the combustion chamber, I remember karack suggesting this in a previous post of mine. I will also get some starting fluid to spray into the intercooler to help starting. When I unflooded it, I removed the egi fuse and crank two times lasting about 10 seconds each, didn't hold the gas pedal to the floor but thanks for suggesting...I guess that gives gas a place for it to evaporate, I should crank it with the spark plugs out, right?. I'm so ready to have it running, hopefully today. thanks again.

Whizbang

mine has sat for 2 years and i am going through similiar fun! i am making sure everything is good to go before i try though. But it was rebuilt with less than 300 miles on it before it sat, so i hope i will be fine....

therotaryrocket

UPDATE: It started!!! I took out the leading and trailing rear rotor spark plugs and cleaned them up, also I injected some marvel mystery lubricating oil (similar to 3-in-1 oil) in the leading plug hole. It ran for about two minutes, then the low coolant light and buzzer went off (engine never got past the cold mark) so I told my friend to jump in and hold it at 2000 rpms. Well he didn't get in fast enough and the engine died. Now it won't start. I've taken the sparkplugs out two or three times, cranked with them out and whitish looking smoke comes from the plug holes (carbon?). I took out the plugs and wire brushed them to remove the carbon buildup and all the nastiness, then sprayed them with carb+choke cleaner and finally dryed them with a paper towel. I took out the egi fuse several times and cranked, every time I do that when I reinstall the fuse it fires a lot more but won't start. Right now the battery's charging and the gas pedal is held open with the key out to try and evaporate the gas. Also I noticed while it was running with the clutch pedal down in any gear or neutral, their is a high pitched rotating noise and I know the last owner told me it needed a clutch, could this be just a throw-out bearing? Back to the engine, i've tryed a lot of starting fluid, it just fires like crazy but it won't start up. Next i'm going to inject some more marvel mystery lubricating oil in the leading plug holes, I can't figure out a way to get regular motor oil down in those plug hole, no luck with a funnel. I still want some help, thanks and i'll keep it updated.

therotaryrocket

MAJOR UPDATE: And some one please HELP me, atleast suggest something. The car starts every time if I push start it, so I did then I found out it doesn't idle at all, and after 20 minutes of driving it slightly overheated. I already fixed the idle by replacing two broken vaccuum lines and connecting another, and I changed the engine coolant cap which fixed the overheating. After replacing the vaccum lines it runs a lot better and is alot more powerful, but it still won't freakin' start. It will not start with the starter no matter what, only rolling starts and the clutch doesn't slip as bad as I imagined. I'd like to figure it out tonight, so I can fix it tommorow along with the brakes. I think this car should run WAY better, it doesn't really feel that much faster than my 12a but I think that's because without brakes I can't really go faster than 60mph. I think i'm going to buy some new spark plugs really soon, but I want to make it to where it can start on it's own i mean the starter spins the engine pretty fast and it catches and fires and hits a lot but it just won't fire up. Any suggestions please, thanks.

therotaryrocket

Please someone help, all I could find in my search was pinch the main fuel line while starting...no luck with that. Anyone else got some ideas? Runs well after I push start it and it trys to start with the starter but it just won't do it. HELP!!!! thnx

therotaryrocket

Since no one wants to freaking help me, after all my searching my problem seems to point towards leaking fuel injectors. The fix seems to be putting a switch in the wiring to the fuel pump so I can shut it off without fuel pressure in the lines to leak into the engine, I plan on going to the fuel pump connnector located on the driver's side rear strut tower and splicing whichever wire is black (ground) to put a switch in. Then I can shut the engine off by turning off the pump then remove the key from the ignition, when I go to start it I get it cranking and turn on the pump. Let's just hope I don't stall it. Well also I need to bleed the brakes today, my car has abs...is there any common failure I should look for because when I got the car their was no brake fluid. thanks

therotaryrocket

WTF is wrong with you people, the 1st gen section's people are way more helpful, atleast they comment on something. Why didn't anyone mention leaky injectors? No one pointed me in the direction of www.mazdatrix.com with their fuel residual relief kit? Thanks for nothing (minus a few helpful ones)

mwpayne

I guess the weekend's a bit slow for responses, but I've ran into this. Mine was flooded and wouldn't start. I tried MMO in the spark plug hoes, no dice. Like yours, it would ALMOST catch. Talked to Kevin Landers, he said that MMO was too thin to build compression...try motor oil. I put about 2 ounces in each hole, cleaned up the plugs AGAIN. fire right up and smoked like a biatch!
Now, if it won't start when wamed up and shut off, it could be leaky injectors and/or low compression. I'd check it.
Try ATF or regular motor oil, also put new plugs in.
Good Luck!

Wankel7

Do a compression check.

Where are you spraying the starter fluid? Your first post said into the intercooler?

James

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try to calm down, we know you are young and eager but we are not at your beck and call...

first, it is likely you have leaky injectors and a fuel pump cut switch will cure your problem as i have this problem as well and i haven't had the time to send out the injectors to have them cleaned yet.

the brakes could have a leak somewhere, check the backside of the master cylinder and inside above the brake pedal for any brake fluid and signs of leakage, also check all your lines and brake calipers for signs of leakage, a car that has been sitting a while can leak from just about anywhere. try adding new fluid and bleeding the system, a leak may be alot easier to find with the system full of fluid.



the white cloudy stuff coming out of the plug holes is just fuel, could be coolant but you don't want to be thinking bad thoughts. the cranking fuel injection circuit has a nasty rich fuel trim so it can flood out easily also, the fuel cut switch helps to prevent flooding.

therotaryrocket

ok thanks, sorry about before i was pissed some mexicano (no offense) hit the black turbo II in the driver's side front fender pretty hard and ran off, my alarm turned on but went off after like 30 seconds??? Anyways hopefully I can find him, the car was very beatiful but anyways. It started first thing this morning, but after shut down it won't start which makes me think it's the fuel injectors leaking, also later on a pinched the main fuel supply line with vise grip and cranked the engine as soon as it started I told my friend to release the pliers. I was looking at installing a switch in the fuel pump connector at the pump, could I just use speaker wire? I don't think it burns coolant because it didn't loose any. It did burn some oil this morning when I first started it up (blue smoke), but that stopped after 20-30 seconds. I bled the front brakes today, so if I pump the pedal they will work, and they stop the car really fast even in light misting rain thanks to abs. Well i'm having a lot of fun with this car, i'd like to know how to make it pshhhh when I let off the gas (without buying a blow-off valve), haha intimidation baby yeah. Thanks you all (sorry again).

therotaryrocket

I was spraying starting fluid into the compressor discharge pipe, actually where it connects to the intercooler in the pipe. The starting fluid didn't really help, since what I needed was more air not fuel. I'll get new plugs when I sell my 85 GS RX-7.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like you are making progress, i wouldn't use speaker wire for the switch though, i mean 12 guage wire is a couple bucks... probably why it smoked the one time was the starting fluid, it is stripping all the residual oil and dirt from the intake manifold and forcing it into the engine, i wouldn't use the starting fluid anymore, as you said it needs more air not more fuel because the injectors are bleeding down when it sits. i would suggest getting the injectors cleaned whenever you can though, the car will be a SOB to start when it's warm, even with a fuel cutoff switch.

therotaryrocket

so sending the injectors for cleaning will stop the leaking? How much does that cost, and how long will I have to wait? I'll add some fuel injector cleaner to the tank just to help it out. It will not start warm at all unless I pinch the fuel hose or push start it. Thanks for helping me out.

therotaryrocket

oh and why exactly do the injectors leak? The pintel inside doesn't close all the way because of carbon build-up or something?