88 TII w/ S5 JDM TII swap STILL wont run!
#76
Hesitation kills.
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Yeah thats exactly what it is similar to the injector plugs. Its the location and the clip together that are making it such a pain in the ***. I have a pick that works good but trying to get a hold of the plug and getting it pulled out is a PITA.
#78
Those numbers are off the chart. Sounds like the plug is disconnected, loose or the wires are broken or the pins/wire running into the back of the plug are receded and not making proper contact. With the coolant cold, the range should read 2 to 3 volts.
A continuity test should be done on the G/W wire.
A continuity test should be done on the G/W wire.
#81
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Ok I tested it plugged in and got 4.98v at the ECU on 2I. I also ohmed the thermosensor on the car and a spare I had both are showing ~2.15. Ambient temp is ~ 70* here tonight.
#82
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Somewhere I found the temp vs resistance for the thermosensor but I cant remember where now. You wouldn't happen to know the values off hand would you?
#83
Looks to be within the normal range so the G/W wire needs to be checked for continuity. If its good then the ground must be problematic or the plug connection.
#86
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As short a run as it is to the ECU I would have expected less but I checked out the wire I used to extend the test lead and it showed .3! Its brand new wire that came with some fog lights I bought for my bike w/ nice shiny brass connectors at each end so if its pulling .3 at 2 meters then .2 for the wire to the ECU doesnt seem so bad especially considering the age.
Its also 12 ga. stranded copper. Cheap a$$ china crap!
Its also 12 ga. stranded copper. Cheap a$$ china crap!
#88
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Lol I think Willie's at his ranch in Austin at the moment actually
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.
I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
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I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
#89
Lol I think Willie's at his ranch in Austin at the moment actually
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.
I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
#92
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Will do! gotta get some sleep though. I was up at 4 this morning to feed all the critters and go to Houston for some lame safety seminar BS for work.
Thanx much for the help. I'll catch ya tomorrow when I get those numbers. Hopefully they will turn up something.
Thanx much for the help. I'll catch ya tomorrow when I get those numbers. Hopefully they will turn up something.
#93
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Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
#94
Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
#96
Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
EDIT: There are three pins at the ECU related to the AFM. Pin 2J,2E and 2A. You already measured 2A and it read correctly. 2E should be about 4 volts w/key to on an 2J 2 to 3 volts w/key to on when the air temp is 68 degrees.
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