88 TII w/ S5 JDM TII swap STILL wont run!
10-21-10, 12:53 AM
#51
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I get this ominous feeling that I'm about to want to throttle myself... no pun intended. When I swapped the engines I removed the the throttle bodies from both engines and laid them aside. when I bought the car it had an extra S4 throttle body sitting in it. They were all on the same shelf. after putting the engine in I discovered the TPS that came with the "new" engine was not going to work with my harness (White 6 pin plug) so I swapped it out with one from what I thought was the TB that was installed on the old engine and I'm guessing I got the wrong one.
Can anyone tell me which of the following TPS's should be on the car:
Can anyone tell me which of the following TPS's should be on the car:
10-21-10, 02:00 AM
#56
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Ok well thanx again.
I went by my friends place to pick up my DVM and wound up chasing electrical gremlins on his Volvo then forgot to get the DVM so I will get over there tomorrow and then check that thermosensor reading as well as the TPS.
I went by my friends place to pick up my DVM and wound up chasing electrical gremlins on his Volvo then forgot to get the DVM so I will get over there tomorrow and then check that thermosensor reading as well as the TPS.
10-21-10, 12:25 PM
#57
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if you have compression, spark, and fuel it should fire up!
pull all the spark plugs and the egi fuses, crank it over till the big fuel mist goes away pour some oil in the leading plug holes, crank it over a few times, then put a bit more oil crank it over a few more times to clean it out, put some dry sparkplugs in and it should fire up. If not get some starting fluid, and spray it in the intake after the intercooler, and it'll start for sure.
looking at the pics on page two you didn't switch the high imp s5 injectors for the s4 low imp. did you just switch the plug ends
pull all the spark plugs and the egi fuses, crank it over till the big fuel mist goes away pour some oil in the leading plug holes, crank it over a few times, then put a bit more oil crank it over a few more times to clean it out, put some dry sparkplugs in and it should fire up. If not get some starting fluid, and spray it in the intake after the intercooler, and it'll start for sure.
looking at the pics on page two you didn't switch the high imp s5 injectors for the s4 low imp. did you just switch the plug ends
10-21-10, 12:51 PM
#58
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"if you have compression, spark, and fuel it should fire up!" Yep thats what pisses me off! It appears to have everything neccessary to run. at this point the only thing I can think of is that the AFR is off for some reason.
I have tried the deflooding bit FC3S. MANY times at this point. Starting fluid makes it worse not better, with or without the injectors pumping fuel in. I have two sets of (4) injectors both are high square offset 550cc purple 195500-2020. The car ran on these injectors (and the TPS) and everything else before I pulled the engine it just smoked so bad that the one time I drove it after getting it home, the sheriff's deputy that pulled me over said it was a road hazard. I replaced it with a used JDM engine I picked up on the cheap from a buddy that I also saw run before we pulled though it was in a S5 chassis.
I'm going out to crank it now and see what I can get. I will shoot a vid so you guys can hear what its doing, or not as the case may be.
I have tried the deflooding bit FC3S. MANY times at this point. Starting fluid makes it worse not better, with or without the injectors pumping fuel in. I have two sets of (4) injectors both are high square offset 550cc purple 195500-2020. The car ran on these injectors (and the TPS) and everything else before I pulled the engine it just smoked so bad that the one time I drove it after getting it home, the sheriff's deputy that pulled me over said it was a road hazard. I replaced it with a used JDM engine I picked up on the cheap from a buddy that I also saw run before we pulled though it was in a S5 chassis.
I'm going out to crank it now and see what I can get. I will shoot a vid so you guys can hear what its doing, or not as the case may be.
10-21-10, 01:40 PM
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Well I popped a fuel line off yesterday to pump out the fuel tank for some fresh fuel and forgot to put it back on so I'm waiting for everything to dry off.
Sorry if I was a bit harsh FC3S. I do appreciate your input, I just get agitated with this damn thing.
Sorry if I was a bit harsh FC3S. I do appreciate your input, I just get agitated with this damn thing.
10-21-10, 06:24 PM
#63
If the car is not being started and the ignition is turned to on along with the fuel check connector jumpered then there shouldn't be any vacuum going to the fuel pressure regulator if I understand it correctly. W/o vacuum the pressure ought to be 40 psi. The reason for the lower pressure could be a function of a dirty fuel filter, kinked fuel line, faulty FPR, and low voltage to the fuel pump as some of the possibilities. Maybe you might want to check the voltage at the fuel pump on the Blue wire that is part of the pump pigtail (not on the rear harness side but the fuel pump pigtail side) with check connector jumpered and key to on.
10-21-10, 06:41 PM
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No my dumbass wasnt paying attention, it was just low fuel. Apparently my gas gauge no longer works. Should've heard the loud noise from the pump and realised what was going on.
10-21-10, 06:52 PM
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Yeah I feel like a total retard but at least it was an easy fix 
I am still puzzled by the lack of vacuum while cranking. Could be my gauge, i had that problem with my comp tester on this same car already.
I am still puzzled by the lack of vacuum while cranking. Could be my gauge, i had that problem with my comp tester on this same car already.
10-21-10, 11:14 PM
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unplug the fuel pump dump a few ounces of gas right before the throttle body hold the throttle wide open, it should atleast fire up then die
my buddy got an engine from a car that sat for over 4 years in a field. it had a stuck seal, uneven pulses, we loosened it off by working some oil into it,till it would turn over with nice even pulses. we couldnt get it to start so we dumped gas down by the TB , popped the IC back on cranked it over and it would start up for a a few seconds then die, after a bit more messing around we found out the chassis he just bought didnt have a fuel pump in the tank, put the pump in and it fired right up.
with all the massive vacuum leaks i've encountered i have still yet to see one keep a car from starting.
i rewired my S5 TII and electronics into an S4 chassis. at first when i was figuring out the wiring I had no AFM, or boost sensor hooked up, and the TB was open to the atmosphere, and had my secondaries running as the primaries, and I was using a n374 ecu that wouldn't fire the rear rotor to top it all off. anyways i was working on getting spark and the thing fired right up. scared the **** out of me hahahaha.i dont even know how long it had been sitting it was a jdm s5 tII engine
there is only a few things that are crucial for the engine to run, you will drive yourself crazy trying to go over every stupid little thing. a vacuum leak or a bad sensor will just make it run like **** not keep it from starting, go over the fuel and ignition systems. thats is all that you should be concerned with at first. till it fires up then work on getting it running smooth
my buddy got an engine from a car that sat for over 4 years in a field. it had a stuck seal, uneven pulses, we loosened it off by working some oil into it,till it would turn over with nice even pulses. we couldnt get it to start so we dumped gas down by the TB , popped the IC back on cranked it over and it would start up for a a few seconds then die, after a bit more messing around we found out the chassis he just bought didnt have a fuel pump in the tank, put the pump in and it fired right up.
with all the massive vacuum leaks i've encountered i have still yet to see one keep a car from starting.
i rewired my S5 TII and electronics into an S4 chassis. at first when i was figuring out the wiring I had no AFM, or boost sensor hooked up, and the TB was open to the atmosphere, and had my secondaries running as the primaries, and I was using a n374 ecu that wouldn't fire the rear rotor to top it all off. anyways i was working on getting spark and the thing fired right up. scared the **** out of me hahahaha.i dont even know how long it had been sitting it was a jdm s5 tII engine
there is only a few things that are crucial for the engine to run, you will drive yourself crazy trying to go over every stupid little thing. a vacuum leak or a bad sensor will just make it run like **** not keep it from starting, go over the fuel and ignition systems. thats is all that you should be concerned with at first. till it fires up then work on getting it running smooth
10-22-10, 12:22 AM
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I hear ya! I have been told that vac leaks will prevent an engine from starting and I have had them cause hard starts but never like this. I'll go thru the whole system again but I'm not kidding when I say this is like the tenth time (if not more)
The boost and fuel pressure gauges I have sat for a while but they had never been used before now so instrumentation failure seems pretty unlikely. I'll borrow a set of proper diagnostic gauges this weekend and see what they say. My comp tester is new and this thing sucked a Sea foam can FLAT so I doubt apex seals are the issue.
On a sidetrack: I was BSing with a guy that runs a wrecker service in town. He said he had a similar problem with his Chevy pickup that turned out to be the security system. I dont think the factory security system is the problem as it seems to work fine as long as the battery has a good charge but I thought I'd throw it out there.
I also tried a little propane in the intake but it made no noticeable difference.
I also noticed this evening that I have no dash or dome lights just the puddle lamps in the doors work. I checked the fuses again yesterday and didnt see anything but...
The boost and fuel pressure gauges I have sat for a while but they had never been used before now so instrumentation failure seems pretty unlikely. I'll borrow a set of proper diagnostic gauges this weekend and see what they say. My comp tester is new and this thing sucked a Sea foam can FLAT so I doubt apex seals are the issue.
On a sidetrack: I was BSing with a guy that runs a wrecker service in town. He said he had a similar problem with his Chevy pickup that turned out to be the security system. I dont think the factory security system is the problem as it seems to work fine as long as the battery has a good charge but I thought I'd throw it out there.
I also tried a little propane in the intake but it made no noticeable difference.
I also noticed this evening that I have no dash or dome lights just the puddle lamps in the doors work. I checked the fuses again yesterday and didnt see anything but...
10-22-10, 06:36 PM
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Ok I am working up a set of leads to check for continuity between the engine end and the ECU at the moment. I forgot about the other two leads, I'll check them here in a bit.
10-22-10, 06:49 PM
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OK 2A is showing 4.98
3I is reading 11.49
Gas in the intake gets the same as cranking w/ the injectors. A few coughs but nothing even close to starting.
3I is reading 11.49
Gas in the intake gets the same as cranking w/ the injectors. A few coughs but nothing even close to starting.
10-22-10, 08:04 PM
#75
If its like the BAC plug there is a very thin metal clip that goes around most of the plug just below the ridge of the plug where the ridge is at the very outward edge of the perimeter of the plug. With the clip in place it won't budge. You need a very thin flanged tool to remove the clip and then it slides off with ease.