T2monster

I've searched, first of all. Some of my questions were a little more detailed than what I found.

Can i pull the air pump/lines/assoc. vac hoses and leave the acv on the intake until my blockoff plates are finished?
I plan to leave the TB alone, and leave the bac in place as well as the twin scroll setup for now.
Will doing this removal also affect my cold start idle assist? It's possible that my female friend may drive it on occasion, so it needs to be in place.

I ask these b/c at TheRx7Shop (my shop), we always pull the entire system and advise the customer of the adjustments required to his/her driving habits. I only offer emissions removal as a package, and only to guys that go j-spec or race. I regret that i never took the time to try out keeping some of the idle assist intact so that I wouldn't have to ask this question.

Thanks in advance for logical responses.

NZConvertible

Yes, but why bother? Fabbing an AVC block-off plate is a half-hour job, and once that's in place the split air pipe doesn't need one.

That's smart, except you've just ripped out the twin-scroll control solenoid and check valve, so you're going to need to replumb it if you want the system to work. Remove the solenoid from the rack and plumb it exactly as per the schematic on page 4B-53 of the FSM. Note the orientation of the solenoid and check valve. This diagram might help you too.



No, idle control is done by three components; the thermowax on the back of the TB (cold idle), the AWS solenoid on top of the UIM (3000rpm start, which should be removed) and the BAC valve on the side of the UIM (general idle speed control and load compensation).

Shouldn't you know all this then?

T2monster

i've never just taken parts of it off. Strip down for Haltech or megasquirt requires none of these parts. I'm the fuel tuning guy, learning the basic components of the factory system and learning rebuilds.