i to the world
i would like to know if any1 out there knows how to make an 13b an3-rotor motor
i really dont wanna swap
also if u do can u please e mail me a list of the parts ill have to get at
spyhon@aol.com thanxs

 

would need a custom eccentric shaft $$$

 

is that all i would need

 

and $50k...

 

you want to make a custom 3 rotor so you dont have to do a swap?

after you do make your custom 3 rotor, your gona end up doing all the same work on the car to make it fit, as you would if you have just swaped in a 20B

-Jacob

 

so its better if i justwork on the 13b

 

yeap, unless you got $$ to burn, and when i say money.. i mean more than 10grand, and possibly more than 20

-Jacob

 

Realistically, I think a 20b swap could be done pretty damn cheaply if someone really wants to do it.

Say you find a decent deal on a 20b ($2500 or so), then you go with a cheap microtech ecu ($800 give or take some), and then you get the proper mounts to place the motor in the bay with a stock TII tranny in place (maybe $300).
That's about $3600, then you throw another grand or so into getting it together right. If someone can weld, the job gets even easier dealing with a custom exhaust, etc...

 

would any1 know the best year 13b to get to drop in the fc

 

can yall tell me wat parts i would need to make an 13b 3-rotor
which would be faster stock the 13b3-rotor or the 20b

 

Can a Microtech run the 3-rotor? I was aware only the new Haltech could do it properly.

 

would any 1 know how to make the 13b an 20b

 

Based on your questions, you are not ready or prepare for a 20B. Don't fell bad most of us will never be!!

IF you have installation, swap questions, I don't want to imagine what it would happen when it comes to the the difficult part.......TUNNING!!

But to answer your question:

You need a extra housing, extra plate, extra rotor, extra 13B center intake housing, 20B or custom escentric shaft (same year as the rest of the 13B), custom made lower intake manifold since you are adding a extra rotor to the 13B. Not only that but I am sure you'll encounter a lot of problems, etc if going this route. I haven't done it, and never will; but Hitman has!

It is easier to just get a 20B, get the engine, get the custom engine mounts and you'll have a FC chassis with a 20B for relatively cheap.

Now what about:

Cooling?
ECU?
Tunning?
Turbo?

Just to name a few!

 

search google for the "hitman." he made a 13B 3 rotor and put it in his 1st gen. read the site and then you'll probably decide to keep your lovely 1.3L.

 

your fc *came* with a 13B in it..........

 

Wow, I'd like to see that.&nbsp If you can build it for under $10,000 running reliably on the street, I'll BUY IT OFF YOU!


-Ted

 

another thing to look at is puting a biger moter in a small car can mes your handeling up bad depinding on how much more wight it adds

 

^yep yep^, personally i don't see the "need" for 20B's, i meen if your not going to use your car for drag then isn't it a little overkill(not to mention a extra 100+lbs on the front of your fc), i think the 13B-RE is a much better bet or even a REW if your willing to make the motor mounts your self (last time i checked noone makes these) from what iv herd the RE is good for up to 500+ HPR and in a FC thats a hell of alot, i meen damn, 300 is enough to out run any civic or integra that comes your way. im assuming that your a NA guy, if so then i think that you might just want to try a nice lovely S5 TII motor, get a hybrid turbo built for ya and a nice piggie back or stand alone, start boostin and there ya go, like i said before 300 hpr does a hell of alot in out little cars, i really don't think a 3 rotor 13b will solve any problems, if nothing else it will just make more...

 

Ah yes, the common theme of those who haven't tried it. LOL

Only the top rotary engine builders in the world do this. Also, note that there is much more to the swap than simply adding an eccentric shaft and extra rotor and housing. Making an engine is one thing, but making it work in the car is another. No offense, but you don't appear to even be able to make the motor on your own. Anyway, here are some 13B to 3-rotor links that may help answer your question:
http://www.hitman.hm/rx7.htm
http://www.evil7.com/

If you are going through all the trouble to add a 3-rotor engine, you can go through a little more trouble to move things around so the static weight distribution is back to normal. However, the polar moment of inertia will probably still be slightly more than stock, although I doubt that 90% of the people on this forum would know the difference.

No, that's just Haltech propaganda. First of all, just about any EMS that can run a 6-cylinder can also run a 3-rotor with simultaneous firing of the L and T plugs, which is the "proper" way to run it on the road race track. I don't know of any EMS that can run the 20B "properly" with a split based on both rpm and load like the factory ECU, although the Motec M800 may be able to with its newest software, but I'm not sure. The new ECU's that can run an rpm-based split according to their advertising are the Haltech E11, Microtech LTX-12, Wolf 3D 4.0 Plus, Electromotive TEC3, and Motec M800.

Microtech EMS products have been running 3-rotors for years.
http://maz-sport.com/theRX7.htm
http://www.daltonautomotive.com/rx220b.htm
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/chuck.htm
http://www.3rotor.com/bmw20b.htm

 

hey waz up
an rotory specialist told me that i can use
20B eccentric shaft
20B "front" center housing (if going with "long" engine)
Custom oil pan
Extra rotor housing
Extra rotor
to make the 3-rotor 13b work is that true

 

thats a 20b though, why go thru all that extra work?

mike

 

just go turbo 13b. Much, MUCH less cost, and still very fast

 

if i do just go with the 13b wat year motor would be the best to use

 

put a hamster wheel in it.
then give the hamster lots of steroids











sorry for the post *****.... just had to do it!

 

Urm stick with a 20b, 13b Hybrids are a bit of a task to build, if you know a very good Fabricator (as none of the manifolds or sump fits) you stand half a chance then you have the problem fitting a staitionary gear to a center plate and making the Primary port flow like a Secondry.

Then you think about the easy stuff like E-Shafts.

If you are thinking of doing a Triple a built engine from NZ will stand you in the around the $16000 mark (done properly with new parts and Ceramics)

As i say 20b is easy compared to the amount of Fabricaton that has to be done on the Triple.

Chris