pyromaniac9912

No it bubbles when its cold u just asked how long I ran it......and its not cold enough for it to put out a cloud of smoke like that what happens is its burning a lil oil when its cold like for the first start of the day and after its warmed up and I start it the car puts out a huge white cloud of steam

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

So your coolant seals should be ok. How much oil does the engine consume?

pyromaniac9912

how is it good if its bubbling when its cold? And I gotta put water in it 4 or 5 times a day plus its not burning much oil at all ive on put 1 quart in it in a month and a half if owning it

spikespencer

Everyone had me convinced there was a coolant seal issue on my 88. Everyone suggests the Champaign method you have been trying but it does not prove anything if you have bubbles on startup except there is a problem with your cooling system.

Since you said before it smells like gas just do yourself a favor and get one of the loan a tool coolant system pressure tester kits and pump it up to 0.9KpC or 13lbs per square inch, check for any hoses that have expanded and replace as needed. Leave it pressurized overnight and see where the coolant leaked out or if the pressure held. If you do not see any coolant on the ground, see if it is in the engine.

One question you had that I did not see answered is how to burp the system. Ideally get a special tool to do it [Thread 342309] or make one that allows you to have a funnel filled with at least 4oz. of coolant sitting above the filler neck with the heat turned on as high as it will go while running up to operating temperature. If you cannot do that for some reason jack the front of the car up so the filler neck is for once the highest point of the cooling system and attempt the same steps without the tool.

~Spike~

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

SirCygnus answered how to burp it. Drain a little coolant, fill it up slowly. I've never had issues with pockets of air on FC's.

I must have read your last post wrong. So it DOES bubble when cold, you just ran it for 10 minutes even though you saw it bubbling.

That's a good bit of oil consumption, but depending on how you drive it and how much it's driven, it may be normal.

Do what spike said and rent a coolant system pressurizer and pump it up. The pressure should hold steady when you pressurize it. If it drops off, pull the spark plugs and maintain pressure on it for about an hour. Turn the engine over (use a wrench on the alternator pulley) and see if coolant comes out of the spark plug holes. If it's leaking after the spark plug holes, it may not come out of them. You may need to remove the exhaust manifold to see if it's coming from there.

There's also a kit that some parts stores sell called a "block tester". It comes with blue fluid and a turkey baster. You suck up some of the blue fluid in the turkey baster, then pop off the radiator cap again. Then, suck up the vapors from just above the radiator cap in the turkey baster thing. If the fluid turns green/yellow, you've got a blown coolant seal.


Or you could pressurize it and find it may be leaking externally, but if you're having to fill it up all the time and have all that smoke...

pyromaniac9912

Well I know its burning a little oil that it shouldnt cause there is some blue smoke here and there but I have to be leaking coolant internaly cause of the huge steam cloud thats coming out of my exaust.

So I started it today and first start of the morning it smoked a little blue until it warmed it up, I shut it off and waited 20 minutes. I went back out started it again and it put out the big white cloud Ive been talking about so its leaking coolant internaly after it looses the pressure from running right? But my room mate/ family mechanic said if I was leaking that much water into my engine it would hydrolock because if I drive it as much as a normal day I end up putting about 2 liters of coolant a day in it, so I must be loosing some coolant externaly as well? (Even though I dont see any puddles under my car or any signs of an external leak)

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

its really almost impossible to hydro lock these cars. the engine must ingest ludicrous amounts of liquid to do so. if it does inject liquid, it gets pushed out past the seals.



pull the engine apart.

pyromaniac9912

So how much is this going to cost me if I fix it myself? Or should I just guy a used engine?

pyromaniac9912

Buy"

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Figure out that the engine is bad first before worrying about the worst case scenario.

Around $900 to rebuild it yourself.

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...5&cat=0&page=1

It'll cost more to have it rebuilt professionally. It's not easy finding a good used engine, but it can be done. Expect around a grand or more for a good used one, plus shipping.

pyromaniac9912

how do I figure out for sure that my motor is bad or not? Pressure test or that blue stuff in the turky baister?

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ester/_/N-25dh

or

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ino...tingAndCooling


They'll both work. I personally belive the pressure test will be more accurate. The block tester is easier and faster, but if you have ANY exhaust gasses in the area it'll turn the fluid yellow. The fluid turns yellow when it detects combustion gasses, which will be present in the coolant if you have a blown coolant seal.

pyromaniac9912

But a pressure test will only show an external leak which I dont think there is one

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

No it won't. If you recall, I said pressurize the coolant system and pull the plugs. If you have a blown seal or cracked housing, it'll come out the empty spark plug holes. If it's losing pressure and you can't see it externally, chances are it's inside the engine. If it's not coming out the plug holes, you may have to rotate the engine, or remove the exhaust manifold to see it coming out. But like I said, if it's losing pressure and you can't get visual verification, it's inside the engine.

pyromaniac9912

Oh okay I must have read that post wrong.

So I bought a block tester and the blue fluid. I did the test 3 times and it didnt change color. Im going to do it one more time tomarrow morning and ill post the result.

pyromaniac9912

So I just did the block test again and it still shows nothing so I guess ill have to get a pressure test and do it that way

pyromaniac9912

So ive realized that I know I have a leak internaly and I donno where but my question is if it is leaking internally is there any easy fix or is it deffinatly gonna take a rebuild?

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Rebuild. Only way. DO NOT get head gasket repair in a can. It will work for a little bit, but fail badly and end up costing you more.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

pull the engine apart immediately. you might have something as simple as a cracked iron, or a crap water seal. if you take it apart fast enough, you can usually rebuild it and be on your way without needing new rotor housings.

pyromaniac9912

Ive never taken apart a rotory is this something I should be getting into?

DaBrkddy

If you've never done it before, it's gonna take you a while. Read the engine section of the Factory Service Manual before you do anything. You definitely want to make sure you are up to the task before you just dive in. If you look at the engine disassembly procedures and it looks too hard/confusing, see if you can get someone to help you who may understand it better. I'm sure there is plenty of help on this forum.

FWIW, I've heard atkins rebuild kits have crappy apex seals in them. I've seen what they do to rotor housings, and it ain't pretty. Think this whole thing out very thoroughly.

pyromaniac9912

I was looking at some racing beat rebuild kits and I figured sence pineapple racing is only an hour away from my house I was wondering if they had any kits. My room mate would be helping me he's very good mechanically.