88 gxl rebuilt moter 0 miles
#27
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You probably flooded it so badly it won't start.....
I spent 2 hrs unflooding my RX one day after an injector went bad and started leaking. It was stuck at 10% higher flow than the other at idle. It was pouring gas into the engine.
Like they said before, pull the EFI fuse. Floor it and crank. Get some jumper cables if need be and keep doing it. Replace the EFI fuse after a couple good rollovers and see if she'll fire up.
I spent 2 hrs unflooding my RX one day after an injector went bad and started leaking. It was stuck at 10% higher flow than the other at idle. It was pouring gas into the engine.
Like they said before, pull the EFI fuse. Floor it and crank. Get some jumper cables if need be and keep doing it. Replace the EFI fuse after a couple good rollovers and see if she'll fire up.
#28
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it ran on the stand at rr ..... tried stareting fluid allready.....
i would almost like to sell it but i allready have 1390 spent on the moter,and about 400 in shipping one way gas the other... plus the actual car that i have not even put 3 k on yet .... this is the first time a car has made me want to commit suicide
i would almost like to sell it but i allready have 1390 spent on the moter,and about 400 in shipping one way gas the other... plus the actual car that i have not even put 3 k on yet .... this is the first time a car has made me want to commit suicide
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Originally Posted by Audiofight
You probably flooded it so badly it won't start.....
I spent 2 hrs unflooding my RX one day after an injector went bad and started leaking. It was stuck at 10% higher flow than the other at idle. It was pouring gas into the engine.
Like they said before, pull the EFI fuse. Floor it and crank. Get some jumper cables if need be and keep doing it. Replace the EFI fuse after a couple good rollovers and see if she'll fire up.
I spent 2 hrs unflooding my RX one day after an injector went bad and started leaking. It was stuck at 10% higher flow than the other at idle. It was pouring gas into the engine.
Like they said before, pull the EFI fuse. Floor it and crank. Get some jumper cables if need be and keep doing it. Replace the EFI fuse after a couple good rollovers and see if she'll fire up.
it floods but no matter how much we unflood this **** sucking mother ******* piece off **** it still wont start.... im about ready to trade3 this ******* piece of garbage for a mother ******* civic... lol
#31
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Just get it started, be smarter than your engine.
#32
i am legendary
Like I said be smarter than your engine.
I did my first rebuild last summer and it fired up with almost no prep on the very first try, AND idled on its own with no help.
Since you said you've done everything so far please go through exactly what you've done in prep to start the motor and what you've done to try and get it to start.
I did my first rebuild last summer and it fired up with almost no prep on the very first try, AND idled on its own with no help.
Since you said you've done everything so far please go through exactly what you've done in prep to start the motor and what you've done to try and get it to start.
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every one i know their rebuild never flooded, both of my roommates cars never missed a beat ..... one of the 2 flooded once after about 5k.....ONCE.... we changed ecu, spark plugs , checked time, airflow senser, tried poping the clutch, tried to put oil in the housings, checked all wiring, vacum, hundreds of times, put half a tank of new gas in it, changed fuel filters, checked fuel pump, injectors, poured either in it, grounded coils , jumped the fuel pump,checked compression,etc.etc.etc.
#34
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Like I said be smarter than your engine.
I did my first rebuild last summer and it fired up with almost no prep on the very first try, AND idled on its own with no help.
Since you said you've done everything so far please go through exactly what you've done in prep to start the motor and what you've done to try and get it to start.
I did my first rebuild last summer and it fired up with almost no prep on the very first try, AND idled on its own with no help.
Since you said you've done everything so far please go through exactly what you've done in prep to start the motor and what you've done to try and get it to start.
#40
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Before you torch it, pull the cas out but leave the electrical plug connected.
Rest both lead sparkplug wires on the fender.
Turn the key to ON.
Twirl the cas's bottom gear. Did the sparkplug wires show spark?
If they did not, then it is probably just a fuse issue.
Just turn the key to ON and spin the cas gear. Don't go to START. Just ON. This way no electrical loss will be experienced thru the starter dragging/putting a load on the battery.
No spark? Then borrow a digital meter and see if you have 12vdc on the black/yellow wire in the small, white, two socket connector at the LEAD coil assy. No voltage? Or do you have battery voltage there?
Rest both lead sparkplug wires on the fender.
Turn the key to ON.
Twirl the cas's bottom gear. Did the sparkplug wires show spark?
If they did not, then it is probably just a fuse issue.
Just turn the key to ON and spin the cas gear. Don't go to START. Just ON. This way no electrical loss will be experienced thru the starter dragging/putting a load on the battery.
No spark? Then borrow a digital meter and see if you have 12vdc on the black/yellow wire in the small, white, two socket connector at the LEAD coil assy. No voltage? Or do you have battery voltage there?
#41
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dude, u shouldnt give up so easily. when i rebuilt my engine it took me a good two-three weeks before i finally got it started. had to do a push start, and i my injectors cleaned which were leaking before. once u get it running, ull know that all that trouble u went through is totally worth it. dont give up!
#43
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ive stayed away from it since last night trying to take a break/no idea what to try next apparently nobody has had this problem ...b/c its not a BASIC problem ...or were real ****** dumb
#44
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Originally Posted by loquin23
ive stayed away from it since last night trying to take a break/no idea what to try next apparently nobody has had this problem ...b/c its not a BASIC problem ...or were real ****** dumb
#45
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keep this thought in mind:
if your rotor housings had even minor wear or blemishes it will affect compression and cause the engine to flood out easier. the more imperfections the harder it will be to start, run and break in.
double check your CAS is installed correctly, that you have fuel pressure and spark, don't worry about compression for now. make sure your plug wires are in the correct location and double check that they are with a service manual. double check your connectors and hoses to be sure they are secured and not kinked. you could even remove the exhaust to be sure it is not pluggef up for initial start up.
after you read all that now....
take a break..
working on something frustruating causes people to make mistakes, take a break from the car and come back to it when you feel you are ready, this is the most important step of all that i posted.
good luck.
if your rotor housings had even minor wear or blemishes it will affect compression and cause the engine to flood out easier. the more imperfections the harder it will be to start, run and break in.
double check your CAS is installed correctly, that you have fuel pressure and spark, don't worry about compression for now. make sure your plug wires are in the correct location and double check that they are with a service manual. double check your connectors and hoses to be sure they are secured and not kinked. you could even remove the exhaust to be sure it is not pluggef up for initial start up.
after you read all that now....
take a break..
working on something frustruating causes people to make mistakes, take a break from the car and come back to it when you feel you are ready, this is the most important step of all that i posted.
good luck.
#46
Carter 2.0
Karack is right. When I started pulling my motor, I got frustrated with all the things that have to come off. I realized that I was not having fun and making mistakes. Since that day I have taken my time.I usually work for a day on the motor and thensit back and relax and reflect on what I did.
Yes, it had been much more enjoyable which is what I was after. My kids are interested in watching and I am showing them what is inside a motor.
YOU, need to just think andplot out your next attack. And enjoy, your only going to build this motor once.
Yes, it had been much more enjoyable which is what I was after. My kids are interested in watching and I am showing them what is inside a motor.
YOU, need to just think andplot out your next attack. And enjoy, your only going to build this motor once.
#47
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its a seven i will probally be doing this more than once .... if not in this car my next be it a tII or a fd i will by one with a blown or almost blown moter so i dont have to replace it 2 months after i get the car it will be the FIRST thing i do to my next one and work around the fresh moter..... i have taken a couple days away from the car now and ej is coming down sunday to help us out .... hopefully a fresh set of eyes and hands will figure this bitch out ( thanks ej)... i will keep you in touch if i get it started , burn it , or sell it........lol
#48
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Just finished putting a remaned motor in my nephew's 86 GXL. Had some of the same frustrations as you. First time I tried to start it, nothing. Spent two nights searching only to find that a wire came unplugged off the positive lead at the battery. I still do not know how that happened. Luckily, we found it. Now the thing cranked, but still would not run right. Flooded the engine two nights in a row trying to keep it running , and had to give up trying in order to let it dry-out.
In the process, I found that the CAS was not positioned right. Went through the steps of installing it again and the car came to life like magic. Since then, I sorted out a TPS problem (TPS was bad), and the car now runs like the lead engine builder at Mazda tuned it.
As to the solution to the CAS in the event it may help you, pull the CAS out of the engine. Make sure that the ping mark on the side of the gear is aligned with the position mark on the CAS housing. Before re-installing it, make sure that the yellow mark on the pulley nearest the block is set on the pin at the front of the block housing. Re-install the CAS and tighten the locking screw. You may still need to time it once you get it running, but the engine should now run.
In the process, I found that the CAS was not positioned right. Went through the steps of installing it again and the car came to life like magic. Since then, I sorted out a TPS problem (TPS was bad), and the car now runs like the lead engine builder at Mazda tuned it.
As to the solution to the CAS in the event it may help you, pull the CAS out of the engine. Make sure that the ping mark on the side of the gear is aligned with the position mark on the CAS housing. Before re-installing it, make sure that the yellow mark on the pulley nearest the block is set on the pin at the front of the block housing. Re-install the CAS and tighten the locking screw. You may still need to time it once you get it running, but the engine should now run.
#49
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Before you torch it, pull the cas out but leave the electrical plug connected.
Rest both lead sparkplug wires on the fender.
Turn the key to ON.
Twirl the cas's bottom gear. Did the sparkplug wires show spark?
If they did not, then it is probably just a fuse issue.
Just turn the key to ON and spin the cas gear. Don't go to START. Just ON. This way no electrical loss will be experienced thru the starter dragging/putting a load on the battery.
No spark? Then borrow a digital meter and see if you have 12vdc on the black/yellow wire in the small, white, two socket connector at the LEAD coil assy. No voltage? Or do you have battery voltage there?
Rest both lead sparkplug wires on the fender.
Turn the key to ON.
Twirl the cas's bottom gear. Did the sparkplug wires show spark?
If they did not, then it is probably just a fuse issue.
Just turn the key to ON and spin the cas gear. Don't go to START. Just ON. This way no electrical loss will be experienced thru the starter dragging/putting a load on the battery.
No spark? Then borrow a digital meter and see if you have 12vdc on the black/yellow wire in the small, white, two socket connector at the LEAD coil assy. No voltage? Or do you have battery voltage there?
.. ok went back at it today...... we checked all the fuel ..... good....... we pulled out the cas like said above and we have no spark!! were getting 12 volts at the yellow/black wire on the leading coil checked all fuses and there good what next?...... ty