cold starts ok..needs to sit for 45 min before she will start again..sensor??

 

You may have a leaking injector or a bad thermal sensor cause you to flood your engine ??

 

Also a sign of low compression. Welcome to the 30 year old rotary!

 

Sounds like your car is flooding. I myself have a fuel cut switch wired into my ignition. I know some people won't care for my recommendation, but I use a fuel cut switch that cuts the fuel when trying to start and they turning it back on after the car starts. This makes it easy and no need to pop the trunk and do the deflooding procedure by pulling EGI fuse and cranking then putting the fuse back in. The reason I like the fuel cut switch is it is an easy and cheap fix to never get stuck again or having to play with popping the hood and pulling fuses and cranking and all that. People say this is caused by leaky injectors. There is quite a good amount of work at pulling your injectors out and all to fix it . Pulling the throttle body off is such a pain as well. Anyways you should be able to do a search on the fuel cut switch here if interested. Also alot of people saying it is a band-aid fix. All I can say it is easy, cheap, and your car will start everytime after that.

 

best to just start with a compression test, it is actually quicker than any other common diagnostic procedure related to starting issues.

most FC starting issues related to hot starting is due to low compression of the engine requiring a rebuild. leaky injectors and other electrical issues are certainly possible but a lot less likely.

 

My problem was a bad thermosensor

 

Every low comp (tired) rotary I've had starts fine after it's been started once in that day.. The hardest part is getting it started first up in the morning when it's cold.

 

this is backwards.

low compression engines start fine when cold, but refuse to get up once fully warmed up. your cars likely had other issues that weren't compression related but you blamed the issue on it instead of actually diagnosing the problem, that or you had early 1st gens and you had an overactive priming foot.

 

Had probably nine or ten rotaries in the last twenty two years and have been a professional mechanic for over twenty.

So I'm not just making **** up... I speak from experience.

 

Mr Styx will jump in here somewhere..

 

^^^ you're speaking to a guy who ran/runs a rotary specific business, did dozens of rebuilds a year, and repaired/sold/flipped more rotaries in a year than you've owned all together...so he's not making stuff up either.

 

i've worked on a few thousand FCs alone in my lifetime not counting the other series, let alone was a factory technician for 12 years prior, so it's unlikely.

while there is some odd occasions where the seals would cause lower compression when cold and cause a flooding issue, that was a very rare situation compared to normal wear inside the engines that causes lower compression to develop when the engine is warmed up. the first example is usually the result of a poor rebuild or poor quality + improperly clearanced seals from the manufacturer, ie the long seal takes up the gap to the boot seal once warmed up.



my suggestions speak from experience, a compression test is a 15 minute job versus spending hours chasing your tail. if compression comes back below 75psi or a >15% variance per rotor/rotor face on a warm engine then you found the root of the issue.

i really wasn't trying to get into a pissing contest, but trying to save him from wasting time on misdirections which actually happens quite a lot around here. it may not be the issue, but it is the best place to start. as with anything the poster is free to do whatever testing he wants to start with, i gave my opinion on the matter and this time i wasn't even attempting to be snarky about it.

 

was not starting when hot but would fire up and run well after about 45 min ..now wont start cold.. have only 30K on the vehicle after rebuild secondary to apex seal failure

 

i think you should do a compression test.


wait.... we already said that. must be something in the water, people have refused to do the simplest and most conclusive test on this forum for as long as i've been here. not sure if you thought that suggestion would change or not, but it hasn't.

 

I don't think you've read any of the replies to this thread...it doesn't matter how many miles are on your rebuild. Do a compression test. Then you can speculate to your hearts content if you have reasonable results.

 

thx for input..headed to shop nxt wk.. will keep u updated on outcome

 

problem was crank shaft position sensor

 

Three cheers !!!

 

Yeah, thanks for letting us know..

 

amen..back up and running strong..thinking about selling and moving up to 3rd gen..what is a reasonable asking price for this beauty?

 

need more info than just "this beauty"

as low as $1000 for a running TII in poor shape with salvage title, up to $15k for a really low mile pristine stock car with the right buyer. average for a semi clean higher mile TII with some tweaking done is about $3500 that may need some body work or paint, a clean higher mile non molested car unmolested about $4-5k. at the end of the day, whatever someone pays is what you will get for it.

 

thx for input..this 'beauty"is black on black.. has increased diameter stainless exhaust;car tech upgraded intercooler; HKS turbo up grade system; Kaminari ground effects; aftermarket rear wing; Roco leather seats with custom leather throughout interior..18 inch SSR wheels..and much more

 

then the last sentence i said is most accurate.