87 TII starts up on 1 rotor???
08-17-01, 04:19 PM
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87 TII starts up on 1 rotor???
Man, I'm completely at a loss here. Almost every single time I start up my 87 TII, it starts REALLY rough and shakes and shudders because it's only running on one rotor when it first starts up. Sounds just like an apex seal is blown in 1 of the rotors and that 1 rotor is getting no compression. It also backfires loudly and basically sounds like an old piece of **** lawnmower, and it sometimes HUGE amounts of white/blueish smoke comes out while i try to rev it to make it go back to normal again. After about 10 seconds of idling and revving it easily, it clears out and runs on 2 rotors normally again!?!? The smoke magically disappears and it still boosts hard and goes straight up to redline with no problems. My mechanics checked out my fuel injectors, and they said that the injectors are in good shape. Im at a loss, does anyone have any advice or suggestions on why my car starts up on 1 rotor and then goes back to normal after 10 or 15 seconds of idling? This 1 rotor startup is really starting to scare me, everytime i think i blew a seal when it starts up like that, but then it goes right back to normal running condition. WTF is going on here??
08-17-01, 05:10 PM
#2
HAILERS
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Sounds a bit like one of the injectors is leaking after you shutdown. I'd try, at the end of the day, running the engine and while its running pull the fuel pump connector off so that the car dies. There should not be any pressure in the fuel rail now so the injector should not leak in the rotor . Get up the next morning and reconnect the plug and start the car. If it does not act up like before its probably a leaking injector. There are several ways to disable the fuel pump. That was just one of many.
08-18-01, 02:12 AM
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CRazyJOker, are you losing coolant from the radiator? I would suggest that you crank it over a few times without starting it, then pull the bad rotor plugs. Are they wet? If so, with gas or water? if they are dry, crank it some more and see if anything is sprayed out from the bad rotor. Gas is an injector problem, water is a seal problem. Good luck!
Irv, Keith's dad
Irv, Keith's dad
08-18-01, 02:16 AM
#4
rawr
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wow, sounds kinda like my car, except my car is blown 
it will start and run on 1 rotor, sounds kinda cool too but it shutters horribly at idle, i dont know if a apex seal broke or not, the OMP metering rod came off the TB and thats how i think it blew, i poured some atf in there and it didnt seem to help, any other suggestion??
it will start and run on 1 rotor, sounds kinda cool too but it shutters horribly at idle, i dont know if a apex seal broke or not, the OMP metering rod came off the TB and thats how i think it blew, i poured some atf in there and it didnt seem to help, any other suggestion??
08-18-01, 03:19 AM
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wow, sounds kinda like my car, except my car is blown it will start and run on 1 rotor, sounds kinda cool too but it shutters horribly at idle, i dont know if a apex seal broke or not, the OMP metering rod came off the TB and thats how i think it blew, i poured some atf in there and it didnt seem to help, any other suggestion??
mine does the same thing. my car is dead. i start it just to move it some where else and thats it. it had some flooding problems before .. ::sigh:: .. im hoping to get a jspec soon. I NEED ONE.. i havent drove my lovely RX7 in like 4 months.. ::sigh:: crys
mine does the same thing. my car is dead. i start it just to move it some where else and thats it. it had some flooding problems before .. ::sigh:: .. im hoping to get a jspec soon. I NEED ONE.. i havent drove my lovely RX7 in like 4 months.. ::sigh:: crys
08-23-01, 07:57 AM
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OK, Im not 100% sure about this, but since the car was flooding a lot before it was starting only on 1 rotor, could it be that maybe my spark plugs are fouled up badly from the leaking gas in one of the rotors and its making it not fire when I first start it, and then after the plugs warm up a little bit it goes back to normal? Before this, it wouldnt start on one rotor, but it would flood a lot when I tried to start it when it was hot, i would let it sit for a while to cool down, and then it would start again, but only on one rotor. The difference now is that it doesn't flood out anymore, but it will just start out on one rotor almost every time I try to start it, whether hot or cold. BTW, the car wont even think about starting unless I floor the gas pedal while it is cranking. Does this sound like a slowly dieing engine or simply bad fuel injectors???
08-23-01, 09:52 AM
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sounds just like my 91 TII, except I don't get the smoke. However I am gradually(over a period of like 3 or 4 weeks) losing coolant. I have to add some water to the radiator keep it from overheating (even the the overflow bottle stays full all of the time) Kind of strange if you ask me.
-nathan-
-nathan-
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08-24-01, 04:01 AM
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Ok, sounds like a fuel problem.. trust me, I've been through very tough times with my turbo II and now it runs great. My first question is you said you had a shop/mechanic check your injectors and they were good?? Please tell exactly what they did? Did they pull the injectors and flow test them?? All it takes is one leaking injector and you've got problems. I would also check your water thermo sensor thats on the back of the water pump.. check the connector first and ensure it is in good shape. If possible, get a code checker on the car and see if its pulling any codes. My guess is you have a leaking injector.
08-24-01, 07:20 PM
#11
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I had T and R Racing check my fuel injectors. What they did was they took out the intercooler and intake manifold and when they got to the fuel line they disconnected one of the coils so it would crank but not turn over completely. They let the injectors shoot out gas while the engine was cracnking and then stopped, and Im guessing that they checked to see if any more gas dripped out of them after they made the injectors spray fuel. And after they did it a few times they told me that the injectors were fine and that they weren't leaking. It still floods out occasionally, but they installed a fuel cut switch so I can un-flood the car easily. But the real scary thing is that almost every time I start it whether it's hot or cold, it starts up on one rotor, but then goes back to normal after idling a little. Yesterday it had to sit and idle for like 2 minutes until it went back to normal, that scared me a little bit.
08-24-01, 07:33 PM
#12
well here my theory, take it for what its worth.
You might have a bad spot in one of your water seals. As the engine housings heat up, they expand, and this might allow your engine to seal properly.
If its cold, then you have a bit of a coolant leak when the engine first starts. The rotary is built with alternating layers of iron/aluminum, so until they all heat up to running temperature, they are expanding and contracting at different rates.
I would start thinking about a rebuild, in the meantime, take it easy while your car is warming up and let it cool down for a few minutes too.
You might have a bad spot in one of your water seals. As the engine housings heat up, they expand, and this might allow your engine to seal properly.
If its cold, then you have a bit of a coolant leak when the engine first starts. The rotary is built with alternating layers of iron/aluminum, so until they all heat up to running temperature, they are expanding and contracting at different rates.
I would start thinking about a rebuild, in the meantime, take it easy while your car is warming up and let it cool down for a few minutes too.
08-25-01, 02:16 AM
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That theory would work, but the only problem is that it starts on 1 rotor when the car is hot as well, so if that theory was true then the engine would be sealed enough to make it start normally when it's hot, but it doesn't. I also get a lot of smoke at high revs. It looks like possibly a mix between blue and white, and a lot of it, but it only lasts for a few seconds. It seems to happen not right during Im at a high rpm or at hard driving, but JUST AFTER a high rpm, coming off of boost. Basically what Im doing is I'm trying to sell my car ASAP, and I obviously can't sell it if it starts up on 1 rotor.
08-25-01, 09:27 AM
#14
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for what its worth, i have the EXACT, and i mean EXACT same problem. My car does that when its hot/cold. This started happneing a couple of days ago and it scared the **** out of me. So i'm trying to sell the car as-is as fast as i can.
i'm just looking for solutions on how to bandaid this without rebuilding the motor, because lets face it, not everyone has $1000 to spend on a motor rebuild
i'm just looking for solutions on how to bandaid this without rebuilding the motor, because lets face it, not everyone has $1000 to spend on a motor rebuild
08-25-01, 11:08 AM
#15
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Dude, I feel you 100% on this. All Im trying to do is figure out how I can fix this problem so I can just sell it as is. Im looking for an old school(90-94) TSI AWD Eagle Talon instead because they can be made to be crazy fast just like TurbooII's can, but I think the Mitsubishi 4G63 is a solid powerplant to handle extrememly high boost levels and a lot of horsepower. Don't get me wrong, I will always like RX-7's but I think that rotary engines get too troublesome when you try to crank out more horsepower from them.
08-25-01, 12:02 PM
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If you find a way to temporarily fix this problem, plz let me know. I was thinking of putting rad stop-leak in ... but i'm afraid of what it might do if it will fall into the combustion chamber. Either way, i have to sell the car right away. I know its kinda immoral, but hey, thats why i'm selling it as is 
local rx7 shop is charging me $1G to rebuild it if i bring them just the shortblock. If i decide to shell out the grand, then i'll keep the ******* thing. Lemme know if you run into any solutions plz 
thanks
-Ross
local rx7 shop is charging me $1G to rebuild it if i bring them just the shortblock. If i decide to shell out the grand, then i'll keep the ******* thing. Lemme know if you run into any solutions plz thanks
-Ross
08-25-01, 01:35 PM
#17
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Check your fuel system. If one of our injectors is leaking badly when we shut down the car, then the gas inside the one rotor might burn away after a little idling, which could be why it starts on one rotor but then goes back to normal eventually. My mechanics checked my injectors, but I think they check them in a half-*** manner. First Im gonna try running a few bottles of the strongest fuel injector cleaner I can find into the gas, and hope that maybe that will help things a little. Then Im gonna take out my plugs and clean them off. It could be that maybe the plugs are constantly being soaked in fuel when it floods out so maybe they arent working too well anymore. Im gonna try these things and see if they help any. But if I still can't stop it then I might just go ahead and get 4 brand new injectors, I know this will be expensive but what else can I do.
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