First off The car:
1987 GXL With 160K on the clock.
only Mods:
Gutted Cats
95 Rx7 Alt

Ok the problem for the last 2 weeks is that it will not start at all. I've been searching for the last week and a half for something and tried almost everything!
here's what we have done:
Replaced Alt with a 95 Rx7 (more power)
New Battery (OEM Spec)
New Sparkplugs (lest than 5K Old)
Easy 3 step Unflood... 50 times
Complex Unflood....20 times

Checked Fuel Pump and it pumps fine
Checked Sparks Get Strong Spark in all 4 Plugs
Swaped Coils from 88 GXL parts car to test them Strong spark with them too.
hand Rotated Engine Moves fine (alittle hard to move with my str but it moves fine.)
Check Timing and idol both withen Specs.
Check Compression Via Redneck way (finger in sparkplug whole) as Mike said "there's a puff on me finger"
Checked Compression with Piston Checker as Mike said " it shows nothing" (thow I dout he did it right)

So What now?
Could The tps be bad? or the ECU or the crank angle Sincer?

any help would be great thanks.
(if your near Morgantown WV and can help that be GREAT!)

thanks
MAGE

 

A flooded or low compression engine is easy to hear.
The starter gear sound surges louder on each compression stroke.

RrRrRrRrR - starter gear sound (normal)
rrrrrrrrrrrr - starter gear sound (flooded) (no compression surges)
RrRrRrrrRrrrR - starter gear sound (bad apex seal) (uneven compression surges)

Are you able to read the ECU error codes?

 

the starter sounded like the to when it died (on the 50th deflood try) just RrRrRrRrR.

S4 does not have codes I thought. or it needs to run toget them.

thanks for the reply Will be replaceing starter today or tommorow to try again!

MAGE

 

ok first off there is a medium diameter hose coming off the bottom towards the throttle body on the air inlet tube or duct (the thing that draws air into the throttle body). check that to make sure it did not come off the duct or the metal tube on top of the tb. if it did it, car will not start with that disconnected. (i have forgot to put that on several times and car will just crank over and die)

if that doesn't work try looking at your fuel injector harness plugs and make sure the wires haven't backed out. (also from experience)

also make sure there is sufficient gas in the tank (yeah i know that is obvious, but you never know, plus our gages aren't exactly the most reliable if you know what i mean)

try looking for vacuum leaks, or disconnected hoses
and check the tps to make sure it's set properly.
via checklamps or multimeter, whichever you prefer.


hope that helps

lamar

 

Thanks for infor I'll check but I'm sure all 3 vacs on the tb are one but I'll check again.

I'll check the wires on the FJ's

Full tank of gas so I know that's not it (Mike said the same thing then he opend it up and saw it full to the brim!

tested the tps with a multimeter like the FSM said think it check out I'll check again.

Thanks for the help keep it coming!

MAGE

 

I have the same prob with my 87 gxl, could I squirt oil into the engine through the spark plugs? I heard that when if floods, it lowers compression by removing oil or something like that

 

did you make sure youre getting fuel at the injectors, and not just that your pump is pumping?

 

Checking that after I get 2 other things fix
1.) vac hose (2nd down on tb) came off someware
2.) new Starter

Thanks for the info I'll be checking the injector next.

MAGE

 

Well Update:
Vac hose was off Fixed that.
New starter put on.

Car starts but will run rufff at 2K die if no gas is given then floods again GARGG so. did comp test my self just to make sure (after reading about 10 posts about the same prob I have not ruff idle)

Front (using Leading and a reg comp tester):
around 35:35:35
Rear ( uing Leading and reg comp tester):
around 40:40:40

Garrr Mike didn't read the tester right!

I'm guessing bad seals uh? (just want to dubble check)
Since I really dont have money ($5 to my name untell end of next month! them mybe $75 slow month for computer building.) do I NEED a new engine? Should I try the other one that I've been told (by 3 diffrent ppl that dont know eachother) that it's a new madza Rebuilt with 0mils?
Need advice thinking if I can find out send both to RR and have one rebuilt cheaper if I can. if I need a new eingine the I diff going to RR and getting a streetported one (why not?)

any advice please I know I'm rambling but that cuse I'm going to be yelled at my mike here in abit about blowing the engine (even thou it's not my falt!) I might have to sell it
errm ya

MAGE

 

did u use a regular piston compression guage and just hold the air release down the whole time. If thats the case, than i wouldnt suspect apex seals because u DID get 3 consistant readings on the front and the back set of rotors. did you check to see if your timing is correct?

 

yes, I used a regular Piston Compression guage.
the timing is within spec's.

That's what I was thinking bad apex seals

thanks for the reply

MAGE

 

How long have you ran it since you got it unflooded?

YOu may need to take it out for a drive, and get the motor good and warmed up.

 

I unflood it and start it up it runs for less than 5 min the dies if my foot is off the gas. it moves but dont think it can go up hills (wich my town is built on) plus the cliking type noise is not good (forgot to say that).

thanks for the reply if I can get it started (deflooded) again I'll try to drive it around the parking lot.

MAGE

 

where is the clicking noise coming from, under the hood?

 

yes sounds like it's coming from the engine it's self But dont know that since I can't keep it running long enough for me to get out and look.

thanks
MAGE

 

doubt it'll run unless the AFM is properly seated and functioning

 

AFM is right where the factory put it and from any tests we did with it it works fine.

thanks for the idea tho

MAGE

 

sounds like one of your primary injectors isnt firing properly or as i stated earlier the injector harness wiring may have backed out of the plug.

just pull the the harness off both the primary injectors and see if one of the wires in the plug appear to be further back than the other


hth

lamar

 

There's a small possibility that one of the LEAD plugs has died. I did that once a long time ago with two brand new plugs starting a rebuilt engine. Buy JUST two LEAD plugs and install them in the LOWER plug holes and give it a try. Don't waste money on the TRAIL plugs (upper plugs). They're not a player.

Oh! And while you have the lower plugs out......put your finger over one hole and have someone crank the engine over. Get a feel for the pulses of that rotor. Now do the same with the other hole. Do they seem the same as far as far as how much they try to push your finger off the hole? Leave both lower (LEAD) plugs out when doing this.

 

LnBrown: I'll check the injectors out (have to find where they are!)

Hailers: I have New Plugs less than 4K old and compresssion:35-35-35 Front 40-40-40 rear (thou it's been flooded for about 3 weeks now of and on)

thanks for the input! it really helps

MAGE

 

Update:

we have it running injectors are pluged in New SPark plugs in does not flood but we still can't keep it idleing just a thought I had was mabe the BAC or ACV? we can get it to idle at 1.5K dourning cold idle but after that turns off it dies.

trying to ajust idle tommorow

thanks for all the help everyone
MAGE