HAILERS

I just found this old jpg on another site http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=29846

I took the cas out of the car and put it on a scanner with the guts of the cas aligned exactly where they should be when the pulley mark is aligned with the fixed pointer.

Note where the two two rotating pointers on the top of the cas are in relation to the small black pickup. Make your cas look like the one in the jpg and I guarantee your timing will be within five degrees when you try to start the engine. Be sure to lock the cas down with its attach bolt/stud/nut.

I wrote in this thread. You might want to read it. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...k+angle+sensor

Bowman

I'll look at that tomorrow evening. There is a winter blast coming through NC now, and I'm not too excited about working outside right now :-o.

How can I tell if #1 rotor is in "firing" position when I reinsert the CAS? I know I can rotate the engine by hand to get to the timing mark. Is there a good way to tell?

HAILERS

If the first mark of the two is aligned with the fixed pointer.......your in business. That is all that is needed.

This article explains the ignition and at the bottom of the article tells how to find TDC if needed. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

Trust me, you only have to align the first mark on the pulley with the fixed pointer. No checking to see if the front rotor is at tdc etc.

vintagespeed

I think you guys are over thinking this one. I believe Bowman said he had spark only from the coil, but when he pulled a plug and turned it over nothing.

This would be either (a) fouled plug(s) or bad wires. Test the resistance of the wires, confirm spark from the coils and then all thats left is the plugs.

It aint rocket science, if there's spark coming out of the coil and through the wires to the plugs it'll do SOMETHING when you spray starting fluid in there. Even with whacked timing.

I suspect just fouled plugs.

Good luck.

HAILERS

No argument from me on that one. You might just buy two new LEAD plugs and try that out. Screw Trail Plugs. Not required at this time. No since wasting money.

Bowman

OK. I have just put my DMM across the plug wires, and I get no reading across any of the 4 wires. I know my meter is good because it does go to 0.0 when I short the leads together. I guess I am in for a new set of plug wires.

Thanks for bringing troubleshooting back down to basics, Vintagespeed!

Bowman

Well, I have just put in a new set of plug wires, and confirmed spark at the plug. There was a small amount of fuel on the plugs when I removed them ,so I spun the motor over with plugs and 30A ECU fuse removed. Put the plugs in, sprayed some starter fluid in the air filter housing, and cranked the engine over. It sounded a little different, but never really fired.

I guess I'll be leaving it alone for the night.

vintagespeed

Ok, the last thing I can think of is bad gas? Was it raining the last time you filled up? Although if you've got spark it should at least pop when you spray starting fluid in there.

Is it also possible you've got a bad ground wire to the block? Confirm with your multimeter that you get continuity to ground at the rotor housings.

Also, I'd try shooting some starting fluid into the plug holes before you put the plugs in and a shot at the TB. If you're spraying it into the air filter box it may be mostly evaporating before it ever gets to the combustion chamber (not enough vacuum off the starter to suck it in). That stuff is mostly for carburated engines with a shorter intake length.

As for checking plug wires, you should get close to 0.0ohms resistance from end to end. If you show more resistance than spec'd in the manual they would be bad.

Dont give up on it yet!

Bowman

To quote:
"IT'S ALIVE!! IT'S ALIVE!!"

Thanks to all who offered suggestions and tips!! I had my wife pull me to the top of the hill this afternoon so I could push start the car. After 3 almost fires, I pulled back into the driveway, pulled and dried the plugs, and put them back in. After a few attempts at cranking, it started to hit. Finally, it would catch, run for 2 seconds the die.

I then reconnected the air tube connecting the intake system with the air filter/flow meter and it stayed running. Terrible smoke for 10 minutes or so, but idle was smooth as before. I took it for a test drive and smoking exhaust went away, and drove to the gas station for a tank of premium fuel.

Again, thanks to all that offered tips and words of patience.
Neal