86 TII swap won't start, but really wants to.
03-09-10 | 07:12 PM
#151
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From: Florida
Okay here are the resluts. The car back fired a few times 
Though it still didn't start. My 7 was being jumped by our other car at the time of these readings. Wheee 
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 12.0 START- 9.3
B/R with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1
B/R without Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 (same)
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 2.9 START- 1.95
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 2.2 START- 1.9
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 11.9 START-9.6
B/R with only engine bay jumpered: ON- 0.02 START- 9.3
Though it still didn't start. My 7 was being jumped by our other car at the time of these readings. Wheee Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 12.0 START- 9.3
B/R with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1
B/R without Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 (same)
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 2.9 START- 1.95
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 2.2 START- 1.9
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 11.9 START-9.6
B/R with only engine bay jumpered: ON- 0.02 START- 9.3
03-09-10 | 09:47 PM
#152
Okay here are the resluts. The car back fired a few times Though it still didn't start. My 7 was being jumped by our other car at the time of these readings. Wheee
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 12.0 START- 9.3 Good
B/R with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 Good
B/R without Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 (same) Supposed to be that way
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 2.9 START- 1.95 Not good at all
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 2.2 START- 1.9 [B] engine bay jumpering Not necessary
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 11.9 START-9.6 not necessary
B/R with only engine bay jumpered: ON- 0.02 START- 9.3 Again, not necessary
Though it still didn't start. My 7 was being jumped by our other car at the time of these readings. Wheee Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 12.0 START- 9.3 Good
B/R with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 Good
B/R without Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 (same) Supposed to be that way
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 2.9 START- 1.95 Not good at all
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 2.2 START- 1.9 [B] engine bay jumpering Not necessary
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 11.9 START-9.6 not necessary
B/R with only engine bay jumpered: ON- 0.02 START- 9.3 Again, not necessary
It is fairly obvious the rear blue is not getting sufficient voltage. What you need to do is as suggested before is bring 12 voltage to your rear blue wire via a jumpered wire (long one at that) from a good battery. If the rear blue wire gets proper voltage and the rear ground is doing its job properly (and maybe it's not) then chances are your car will start. Try it, you might like the results and if by chance your car starts let it run for long period of time before turning off. Good luck!
03-10-10 | 03:04 PM
#153
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I want to double check that I'm testing and running the wire from the battery to the correct point in the rear. The blue wires don't seem to match up. I've illustrated in the pics. The numbers match on both sides/pics. I was testing #3 on the fuel pump side. Wrong or right?
03-10-10 | 03:13 PM
#154
I want to double check that I'm testing and running the wire from the battery to the correct point in the rear. The blue wires don't seem to match up. I've illustrated in the pics. The numbers match on both sides/pics. I was testing #3 on the fuel pump side. Wrong or right?
When jumpering the blue wire from a good battery you could also jumper the + battery wire to whichever wire from the fuel plug side that matches up to the blue wire for you have two choices where one relies on the plugs making good contact and the other one goes straight to the fuel harness itself. If you choose to go straight to the fuel plug wire which needs voltage then you also need to provide a ground to the fuel plug ground wire.
03-10-10 | 05:54 PM
#155
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From: Florida
Yes, the numbers match. I was testing and running the wire directly from the battery to #3 in the second picture.
So you're saying... jump two wires from the battery? #4 on the first pic and #3 on the second? Or if I just jump #3 like I was, I also need to ground it somewhere?
So you're saying... jump two wires from the battery? #4 on the first pic and #3 on the second? Or if I just jump #3 like I was, I also need to ground it somewhere?
03-10-10 | 07:10 PM
#156
Yes, the numbers match. I was testing and running the wire directly from the battery to #3 in the second picture.
So you're saying... jump two wires from the battery? #4 on the first pic and #3 on the second? Or if I just jump #3 like I was, I also need to ground it somewhere?
So you're saying... jump two wires from the battery? #4 on the first pic and #3 on the second? Or if I just jump #3 like I was, I also need to ground it somewhere?
If you think the ground wire from the harness is good then with the plugs connected together you would connect the wire from the good battery to either the blue wire in the harness side ( one coming from the front of car) or you could elect to stick the battery positive wire into the back of the fuel plug where the B/W resides for as you said this wire connects to the blue wire from the other plug.
Now if you do not have confidence in the harness ground wire you can place the ground wire from the good battery for example to the black wire of the fuel plug and the positive wire from the good battery to the B/W of the fuel plug and this plug does not need to be connected to the harness plug if you choose this method.
Also, it would be very very prudent to prove the pump works by choosing the second method without the key in the ignition and wiring the pump directly (2nd method) will cause the pump to make a sound. If it makes a sound then try to start the car. If your pump doesn't make a sound when directly hooked up to the battery then the pump does not work.
On a final note, when you were doing the tests which you provided the results to and some of these tests involved the reading of the blue wire in the rear did you use the blue wire in the plug with the white wires with stripes or the blue wire that is part of the fuel plug. I hope it was the blue wire from the harness with the white wires with stripes.
03-10-10 | 09:16 PM
#158
Also, do not jumper the engine bay plug to do the tests the second time around.
Edit: First comes the tests then the "spliffing."
03-10-10 | 09:26 PM
#160
Focus on the tests in post #148. Also use the ground wire in the plug under the dash to test the B/R wire for voltage with key to start in addition to using the console bolt for grounding. Should lead to the same results.
EDIT: Also do the test in post #131. Here you jumper the wire in the engine bay plug(only jumper necessary) and with the key to on test the blue wire at the rear (harness side blue wire).
03-10-10 | 11:15 PM
#161
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From: Florida
but a 9.8 when I try and use the #2 ground wire.
Getting back to testing the relay, check for voltage of the B/R wire with key to "start" so to do that just use the bolt for the center console (pointed out earlier) as your ground, and the red lead from the voltmeter to the B/R wire and you should see close to battery voltage.
Also use the jumper wire you have and put one end in the B/W cubby hole and the other end in the Blue terminal and with the key to "on" check for voltage at the relay coming from the blue wire and also in the rear hatch area at the same blue wire.
Edit: when checking the blue wire for voltage at the relay itself after the jumper is in place and key to on make sure that your red lead of the voltmeter "is not" coming into contact with the jumper wire but just the blue wire itself if possible.
Also use the jumper wire you have and put one end in the B/W cubby hole and the other end in the Blue terminal and with the key to "on" check for voltage at the relay coming from the blue wire and also in the rear hatch area at the same blue wire.
Edit: when checking the blue wire for voltage at the relay itself after the jumper is in place and key to on make sure that your red lead of the voltmeter "is not" coming into contact with the jumper wire but just the blue wire itself if possible.
B/R grounded with gnd wire @START: 8.2
B/W jumpered to blue @ON: 10.5
The rear blue from the harness measured @ON: 0.0 when nothing was jumpered!
03-11-10 | 10:04 AM
#163
These newer numbers are more like it though it's a catch 22 since this effectively rules out your fuel pump though you might want to disconnect the fuel pump plug and hardwire it to the battery and listen for sounds that it is indeed working properly.
Seems like there are less issues to look at now making it harder to diagnose your problem. Without looking back at the previous posts I can't remember if you checked the primary fuel injectors for pulse. To do this take a led light which can be purchased at a Radio Shack for about a dollar. Remove the small plug from the ecu and looking at the plug from the back where the individual wires feed into the plug place the red wire from the led light to pin 3I (B/W wire) and the yellow wire from the light to pin3E (LG wire) which is the front primary and then key to start and the light should blink repeatedly. Then move the yellow wire after the test to pin 3C (LG/B wire) which is tyhe rear primary injector and turn the key to start again to see if the light repeatedly blinks again. It should if they are pulsing properly.
Seems like there are less issues to look at now making it harder to diagnose your problem. Without looking back at the previous posts I can't remember if you checked the primary fuel injectors for pulse. To do this take a led light which can be purchased at a Radio Shack for about a dollar. Remove the small plug from the ecu and looking at the plug from the back where the individual wires feed into the plug place the red wire from the led light to pin 3I (B/W wire) and the yellow wire from the light to pin3E (LG wire) which is the front primary and then key to start and the light should blink repeatedly. Then move the yellow wire after the test to pin 3C (LG/B wire) which is tyhe rear primary injector and turn the key to start again to see if the light repeatedly blinks again. It should if they are pulsing properly.
03-11-10 | 02:02 PM
#165
Another thing to do would be to remove the connectors off of your primary injectors on the engine and test them for the proper impedance which should be 1.5 to 3.0 "ohms" if they are low resistance as advertised. If they measure higher than 12 "ohms" they are the wrong injectors.
03-11-10 | 07:12 PM
#167
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From: Florida
Yeah mine looks crazy, lol. My air box matches up with the hole where the variable resistor is supposed to be... I'm guessing I need that? And what did we decide about the fuel relay? Do I need it?
03-11-10 | 07:32 PM
#168
The fuel pump relay and resistor should affect the drivability of your car but as to whether it affects the start up of the car I do not know. I tend to think it would not but I might be wrong, seriously wrong.
03-11-10 | 09:14 PM
#171
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From: Florida
Hey Kevin! Umm.. I guess one could have gone out since the last engine was in. To test the I'd just take the each lead and trailing wires off at the pack , set them next to it realllly close and see if there's spark right?
03-11-10 | 09:45 PM
#172
Focus on post #2 and #15 in the link below. You could use your spare CAS to do this trick/test. Remember to take the black cover off of the CAS. And you asked if HAILERS was around. With the search function he is around 24/7. And the leading coil is ......."by the battery." Correct answer!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...checking+coils
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...checking+coils
