Okay here are the resluts. The car back fired a few times :) Though it still didn't start. My 7 was being jumped by our other car at the time of these readings. Wheee :lol:

Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 12.0 START- 9.3
B/R with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1
B/R without Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 0.02 START-9.1 (same)
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W: ON- 2.9 START- 1.95
Rear Blue with Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 2.2 START- 1.9
Int.Blue jumpered to B/W & engine bay jumpered: ON- 11.9 START-9.6
B/R with only engine bay jumpered: ON- 0.02 START- 9.3

It is fairly obvious the rear blue is not getting sufficient voltage. What you need to do is as suggested before is bring 12 voltage to your rear blue wire via a jumpered wire (long one at that) from a good battery. If the rear blue wire gets proper voltage and the rear ground is doing its job properly (and maybe it's not) then chances are your car will start. Try it, you might like the results and if by chance your car starts let it run for long period of time before turning off. Good luck!

I want to double check that I'm testing and running the wire from the battery to the correct point in the rear. The blue wires don't seem to match up. I've illustrated in the pics. The numbers match on both sides/pics. I was testing #3 on the fuel pump side. Wrong or right?

does #4 wire (blue) in the first pic match up to #4 wire on the fuel pump harness?

When jumpering the blue wire from a good battery you could also jumper the + battery wire to whichever wire from the fuel plug side that matches up to the blue wire for you have two choices where one relies on the plugs making good contact and the other one goes straight to the fuel harness itself. If you choose to go straight to the fuel plug wire which needs voltage then you also need to provide a ground to the fuel plug ground wire.

Yes, the numbers match. I was testing and running the wire directly from the battery to #3 in the second picture.

So you're saying... jump two wires from the battery? #4 on the first pic and #3 on the second? Or if I just jump #3 like I was, I also need to ground it somewhere?

Wire #1 and wire #3 in both pics deal with the fuel gauge and the low fuel warning light in the dash so neither of these wires are players. The other two wires are important. #4 should be for voltage and #2 should be for ground. Depending on which wires you want to use depends on whether you think the ground wire from the harness side is good.

If you think the ground wire from the harness is good then with the plugs connected together you would connect the wire from the good battery to either the blue wire in the harness side ( one coming from the front of car) or you could elect to stick the battery positive wire into the back of the fuel plug where the B/W resides for as you said this wire connects to the blue wire from the other plug.

Now if you do not have confidence in the harness ground wire you can place the ground wire from the good battery for example to the black wire of the fuel plug and the positive wire from the good battery to the B/W of the fuel plug and this plug does not need to be connected to the harness plug if you choose this method.

Also, it would be very very prudent to prove the pump works by choosing the second method without the key in the ignition and wiring the pump directly (2nd method) will cause the pump to make a sound. If it makes a sound then try to start the car. If your pump doesn't make a sound when directly hooked up to the battery then the pump does not work.

On a final note, when you were doing the tests which you provided the results to and some of these tests involved the reading of the blue wire in the rear did you use the blue wire in the plug with the white wires with stripes or the blue wire that is part of the fuel plug. I hope it was the blue wire from the harness with the white wires with stripes.

Alas nay, I tested #3 on the fuel pump side. For I am an uneducated knave. I'll test again! Lol.

Oh my!!!!! Well there is a lesson to be learned here and one of those lessons is the color of the wires are not always the same on either side of the plug plus the blue wire you tested does not match up with the blue wire from the harness side of the plug.

Also, do not jumper the engine bay plug to do the tests the second time around.

Edit: First comes the tests then the "spliffing."

Lol, thanks and YES SIR! *military salute* Hehe (not that I was ever in the military.)

Not even Jamaican man!

Focus on the tests in post #148. Also use the ground wire in the plug under the dash to test the B/R wire for voltage with key to start in addition to using the console bolt for grounding. Should lead to the same results.

EDIT: Also do the test in post #131. Here you jumper the wire in the engine bay plug(only jumper necessary) and with the key to on test the blue wire at the rear (harness side blue wire).

@ON: 10.22
but a 9.8 when I try and use the #2 ground wire.

B/R @START: 8.4
B/R grounded with gnd wire @START: 8.2

B/W jumpered to blue @ON: 10.5

The rear blue from the harness measured @ON: 0.0 when nothing was jumpered!

^ Edited ^

These newer numbers are more like it though it's a catch 22 since this effectively rules out your fuel pump though you might want to disconnect the fuel pump plug and hardwire it to the battery and listen for sounds that it is indeed working properly.

Seems like there are less issues to look at now making it harder to diagnose your problem. Without looking back at the previous posts I can't remember if you checked the primary fuel injectors for pulse. To do this take a led light which can be purchased at a Radio Shack for about a dollar. Remove the small plug from the ecu and looking at the plug from the back where the individual wires feed into the plug place the red wire from the led light to pin 3I (B/W wire) and the yellow wire from the light to pin3E (LG wire) which is the front primary and then key to start and the light should blink repeatedly. Then move the yellow wire after the test to pin 3C (LG/B wire) which is tyhe rear primary injector and turn the key to start again to see if the light repeatedly blinks again. It should if they are pulsing properly.

Ugh, well it raining today. I'll see if it lets up. So... I think I'm going to try and get my friend, the RX-7 specialist guy back out here....

Another thing to do would be to remove the connectors off of your primary injectors on the engine and test them for the proper impedance which should be 1.5 to 3.0 "ohms" if they are low resistance as advertised. If they measure higher than 12 "ohms" they are the wrong injectors.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/1633/dscf1101x.jpg

See how this circuit opening relay differs from yours?

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/4606/dscf1094k.jpg

Picture of the variable resistor which controls fuel mixture at "idle" only

Yeah mine looks crazy, lol. My air box matches up with the hole where the variable resistor is supposed to be... I'm guessing I need that? And what did we decide about the fuel relay? Do I need it?

The fuel pump relay and resistor should affect the drivability of your car but as to whether it affects the start up of the car I do not know. I tend to think it would not but I might be wrong, seriously wrong.

LOL, damn satch you've been super helpful. You're so smart! Speaking of smart.. is Hailers still alive?

Ari...are you sure the coils are good (didn't feel like reading through the entire thread). Another guy in town with a T2 just had this issue and he had a bad coil pack.

Hey Kevin! Umm.. I guess one could have gone out since the last engine was in. To test the I'd just take the each lead and trailing wires off at the pack , set them next to it realllly close and see if there's spark right?

Focus on post #2 and #15 in the link below. You could use your spare CAS to do this trick/test. Remember to take the black cover off of the CAS. And you asked if HAILERS was around. With the search function he is around 24/7. And the leading coil is ......."by the battery." Correct answer!



https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...checking+coils

Ari if it ends up being one of the coils, I've got a couple running around. I kinda hope it is that simple now! =)

Ooo! Me too! Thanks Kevin. I'll hook up my old CAS and test it tomorrow assuming its not raining... :)

GL.

Gringo grande YOu should swing by and help him deflood the engine.

I got a feeling it is flooded along with the other problems.(i say so because i thought we already had fuel n spark)

My fuel pump will absolutely be off it I disconnect it from the harness in the hatch right?

Yes. Are you trying to do some test where you don't want to provide more fuel to an engine which might already have too much fuel in it?

IF you want the fuel off. You can pull the egi fuse out-- it is in the engine bay -driver side strut tower

Yeah, I figure the absolute guaranteed way to make sure I'm not getting ANY fuel is to make absolutely sure that the fuel pump wont work. I'll try and deflood the hell out of it. Tomorrow shouldn't be raining....

If you check the coils as I linked to you could thereafter disconnect the two wire white plugs leading to both coils and with the additional CAS connected, with the key to "on," spin the CAS wheel and you should hear the injectors clicking. With the coils disconnected the spark plugs won't fire and possibly drown out the injector clicking. This test requires the EGI INJ fuse to be positioned properly in the engine fuse box and you don't have to worry about either of these tests dumping fuel into the engine because the key is just set to "on" and the yellow fuel check connector in the engine bay "is not jumpered." If it were jumpered then the fuel pump runs when the key is set to "on" otherwise it won't run unless the engine is up and running of course. That would be nice!

Ok! Dear God, I'm home and finally had time to work on my little punk. So, I tested the coil packs and didn't see any spark coming from T2. So called up Gringo Grande and he came over with one. BUT, when I took my old one off, I found something that wasn't connected (at least not after I pulled the pack up, which mean it could have been barely connected). It looks like a ground. So I put Gringo's pack on and no spark to either. I put my old pack back on and no spark! But both L1 & L2 are still sparking. I tried to ground the thing I found, but don't know where it originally went. After attempting to ground it, still now spark on my original pack. Any idea if this is a ground and if so, where's a good place to put it? THANKS!

EDIT: So I put Gringo's pack on and no spark to either (T1 or T2).
.. After attempting to ground it, still no spark on my original pack.

The item in the pic is the condenser and you definitely need it.

Great! Now what do I do with it? It's still attached.

I presume it's attached to a B/Y wire? If so it needs to be bolted to the fender and there should be a place nearby that already exists for it.

EDIT: There's a good chance you would blow one of the EGI fuses w/o it so I would double check the fuse that has the B/Y wire coming out of it in your engine bay fuse box. Also, when you switched out your trailing for Gringo's did you bolt it into place first before attempting to use it?

Err.... maybe. Why?

That's how it is grounded. It won't operate otherwise.

So when your T coil was connected you got spark out of T1 but not T2 and when the replacement was used neither T1 or T2 had spark. Is this correct?
The trailing coil receives two B/Y wires. Do they both have battery voltage with the key to on? Also check back at the ECU and with the key to on and read pins 1X,1U and 1M and compare to the FSM numbers for 1X should be zero, 1U should be approximately 4.4 volts and 1M should be less than 2 volts and when measuring pin 1M make sure the plug is removed and if it reads really high then it needs to be replaced.

....Oh. Well that would explain it. When I was unbolting it, the T2 bolt was already missing. I wonder if T2 hasn't been grounded this whole time. Thanks satch :)

If one side was grounded then the other side should be grounded as well.


The T coil bolts to the fender via two brackets. One bracket connects to the fender on top and the other bracket is below the coil. The bottom bracket has two bolts connecting it to the coil and one bolt below connecting it to the fender wheel well, which is where the condenser is connected using the same bolt.

Okay so, I bolted down my original trailing coil pack and tried to ground the condenser. (Though I'll try and move it where you said satch and see if thats does anything, you can ignore the arrows in pic 1). I still don't think T2 is getting spark. (Though is day and a bright Florida evening, so I'll try again tonight.) I'm testing the spark with my spare CAS, with the wire unplugged from the spark plugs and the key ON. (Though I usually only get one chance to spark, right after I turn the key ON, after that I have to turn the key off then on again.)

While I was looking around I found loose condenser just about underneath the spark plugs. What does it go to? Where does it go?

And a few other wires that I thought were odd.

Still not starting (given).

EDIT: I just hooked up the one Gringo gave me (with the resistor under the bolted part of the coil against the fender) and I'm not getting spark to T1 or 2 bit I am to L1 (didn't try L2). Though its not a guaranteed working part.

For whatever it means.........as long as the lead coil works, there should be no problem starting a RX-7. Waste of effort on your part right now trying to make the trail work. Not required for running/driving the car.

*sigh* thanks Hailers buddy. Any idea about the pics?

Alright, I've got my RX-7 specialist buddy coming over on Thursday. I'm paying him to have a look.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/446/oilcondenser.jpg

It deals with the oil gauge and is connected to the area as depicted in the photo. Your other one is fine being located on the firewall and it pertains to the tach gauge I believe.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/3256/dscf1104w.jpg

Arrow points to the oil level sensor. There should only be one plug which properly mates to that sensor. The plug it does mate to when grounded and key to on would cause the low oil level buzzer and dash warning light to both come on if you needed to verify the proper plug.

DOnt give up yet.

GL

But where is the mate for plug #1 in my last picture? And #2 goes to something behind the oil level sensor (but it IS connected already). I guess that could be why that super annoying buzzer keeps going off inside. I though it was the low coolant buzzer. What about #3??

That should be the oil temp sensor which is irrelevant for it is part in parcel of the the sub zero start system which does not work.

I'm slow. What is 3 supposed to be pointing to?? The drain plug? The pan?

The subzero sensor/switch should have a black/red wire connected to it. Probably does since it's connected up.

NOne of those items can cause a engine to not start or trail coils to not work.

#3 is a question mark (?). Thanks Hailers.