86 RX-7 Purchase opinions
#1
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86 RX-7 Purchase opinions
I just found this forum by googling, I have a question or two.
I just found a 1986 RX-7 For sale locally (Marlborough, MA USA), the person who is selling the car said it was 'stock everything' and had 110000Miles on it. The Guy wanted 4K, but he said he was willing to talk about the price. He says the car is in very good condition and runs well, he apparently changes his oil everything 2k Miles, and he's just looking for a newer car. The body looked like it was in very good condition, no visible rust or knicks.
I'm just a highschool student with a simple part-time job (like 450 a month if i'm lucky) and i'm wondering if this is worth it, or if the total work/cost will be to much for me to handle. I just want some Opinions.
I just found a 1986 RX-7 For sale locally (Marlborough, MA USA), the person who is selling the car said it was 'stock everything' and had 110000Miles on it. The Guy wanted 4K, but he said he was willing to talk about the price. He says the car is in very good condition and runs well, he apparently changes his oil everything 2k Miles, and he's just looking for a newer car. The body looked like it was in very good condition, no visible rust or knicks.
I'm just a highschool student with a simple part-time job (like 450 a month if i'm lucky) and i'm wondering if this is worth it, or if the total work/cost will be to much for me to handle. I just want some Opinions.
#2
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Well I would say 4k is a bit much for a stock engine with 110,000 miles. Maybe if you could take it somewhere to have it compression checked and have it looked over for reassurance but I would try to talk him down.
You will probably get different opinions but if its in good shape then the price isn't far off but last thing you would want is to buy it and then find out you have low compression in one or both of the housings.
Mike
You will probably get different opinions but if its in good shape then the price isn't far off but last thing you would want is to buy it and then find out you have low compression in one or both of the housings.
Mike
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Would I have to worry about Anything going south? Is there any real part of this car that is known to stop working after some time, even if it's kept in good condition. And how much *would* a engine rebuild cost? Btw it looks exactly like the car in Phantomhp's sig.
#10
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Being in highschool and working an entry level job with an RX-7 = disaster. If that car has been maintainted well and everything kept up to specification, you might have it a little easier. However, it is still a car almost twenty years old... that means there are lots of thing waiting to go wrong.
These things include water pump going, rusty/faulty exhaust, electrical gremlins, worn suspension, worn brakes, electrical gremlins, cooling system hosing needs replacement, cracked/cracking vacuum lines, possibly a rebuild on the horizon, and oh yes... electrical gremlins.
This is not meant to disuade you from getting one, but you must realize that getting an old car like this comes with its own set of problems. Especially if this car is turbocharged, you might want to think carefully and search the forum before you run out and buy it.
These things include water pump going, rusty/faulty exhaust, electrical gremlins, worn suspension, worn brakes, electrical gremlins, cooling system hosing needs replacement, cracked/cracking vacuum lines, possibly a rebuild on the horizon, and oh yes... electrical gremlins.
This is not meant to disuade you from getting one, but you must realize that getting an old car like this comes with its own set of problems. Especially if this car is turbocharged, you might want to think carefully and search the forum before you run out and buy it.
#11
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if you do the engine rebuild yourself, all the parts will cost mabe $700. There's a thread on rebuild parts in the archive. Your vacuum hoses should probably be replaced. That'll cost maybe $50-100 and is really easy to do. Some of the grounds should probalby be redone. $10. Can't really think of anything else off the top of my head right now.
edit: Oh, and also a coolant hose that cost $30. And some new shifter bushings, whic was maybe $30 too. So i've spent less than $200 to make my Turbo2 fully reliable. But I'm lucky that the previous owner took good care of her.
edit: Oh, and also a coolant hose that cost $30. And some new shifter bushings, whic was maybe $30 too. So i've spent less than $200 to make my Turbo2 fully reliable. But I'm lucky that the previous owner took good care of her.
Last edited by gingenhagen; 07-27-05 at 10:58 PM.
#12
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Originally Posted by gingenhagen
um, he didn't say anything in his post about it being a gxl.
anywho...I still wouldnt pay more than $2500 for it either way.
#13
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So the general consensus is that Since this is a n/a I should get him down between 2500-2000 depending on engine compression tests and a overall look-over. And That it will take approx. 200-300 to get it into reliable condition. ?
I really fell in love with the car, so I wouldn't mind doing some work... but if it's really as bad as AcidShock makes it sound.. I'm not sure.
Edit: btw he told me that there had been some exhaust problems, that he repaired with a simple welding job. Just wanted to mention it, and sorta gave me the feeling of him coming completely clean.
I really fell in love with the car, so I wouldn't mind doing some work... but if it's really as bad as AcidShock makes it sound.. I'm not sure.
Edit: btw he told me that there had been some exhaust problems, that he repaired with a simple welding job. Just wanted to mention it, and sorta gave me the feeling of him coming completely clean.
Last edited by Worldestroyer; 07-27-05 at 11:18 PM.
#14
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for the most part...yeah.
It just all depends on the condition of the motor. If it's on its last leg...you may have a sidelined car in a couple months and be spending more trying to get the engine rebuilt or rebuilding it yourself.
My opinion...dont get the 7 if you are a poor student...all your money will be going to the car if things start to go wrong.
It just all depends on the condition of the motor. If it's on its last leg...you may have a sidelined car in a couple months and be spending more trying to get the engine rebuilt or rebuilding it yourself.
My opinion...dont get the 7 if you are a poor student...all your money will be going to the car if things start to go wrong.
#15
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Yeah, closer to $2,000 is more reasonable. If you have access to a piston engine compression tester you can modify it to check the "health" of the engine in the car.
What you do is remove the lower spark plugs and select a proper adapter that will fit in them for the compression tester. At the end of the adapter is a schreider valve - remove it. Screw the adapter in the first lower spark plug hole and connect the compression tester.
Pop the fuse box in the engine bay and remove the EGI fuses and disconnect the CAS. The CAS is a cylinderical looking thing on the driver's side pointing up at you. Disconnect its wiring harness.
Have the owner or a buddy crank the car over (it will not start now) and look for even bounces on the compression tester gauge. You are looking for three even bounces of ~85 PSI or greater. Do this for the second lower spark plug hole. The difference between the two plug holes should be no more than 15 PSI I believe, but do not quote me on that.
Like I said before do not think I am trying to get you not to buy the car or that these cars are filled with problems, they just have their quirks you have to get used to. If you are on a tight budget, even if you do your own wrenching, you still might not be able to keep up with it.
What you do is remove the lower spark plugs and select a proper adapter that will fit in them for the compression tester. At the end of the adapter is a schreider valve - remove it. Screw the adapter in the first lower spark plug hole and connect the compression tester.
Pop the fuse box in the engine bay and remove the EGI fuses and disconnect the CAS. The CAS is a cylinderical looking thing on the driver's side pointing up at you. Disconnect its wiring harness.
Have the owner or a buddy crank the car over (it will not start now) and look for even bounces on the compression tester gauge. You are looking for three even bounces of ~85 PSI or greater. Do this for the second lower spark plug hole. The difference between the two plug holes should be no more than 15 PSI I believe, but do not quote me on that.
Like I said before do not think I am trying to get you not to buy the car or that these cars are filled with problems, they just have their quirks you have to get used to. If you are on a tight budget, even if you do your own wrenching, you still might not be able to keep up with it.
#18
IMO $4k for a 110,000 miles is way too much...you can do better than that. If he won't go down to ~$2k, I say just leave it. There will be more RX-7's to come =). My '88 SE was $3250 with 72k original miles, and for the most part very well taken care of.
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Are there any major problems/defects with this car? Such as rotary seal problems, overheating problems, etc? I tried searching the forum, but there were to many posts and I couldn't really find a answer.
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Here is a buying guide:
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html
Since you are in the east, go over every inch of that car for rust. I think $4k is too much even if he did what he says. Read up on the buying guides and faqs then start lowballing him on the price. I paid $400 mine with an excellent body and a blown coolant seal. For the one you described, I would pay about 1200, maybe more if it was a california car
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html
Since you are in the east, go over every inch of that car for rust. I think $4k is too much even if he did what he says. Read up on the buying guides and faqs then start lowballing him on the price. I paid $400 mine with an excellent body and a blown coolant seal. For the one you described, I would pay about 1200, maybe more if it was a california car
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Don't forget that all the rubber suspension goodies as well as the shocks and springs are going to need to be replaced on a car this old. If you're not mechanically inclined, this car may turn out to be a money pit. If you want to become mechanically inclined, I've never seen a model of car with such a wealth of information available for it that wasnt made in america in the 70's. Either way, If everything is cosmetically good, $2000 sounds about right.
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Just remember the general rules about used "project" cars..
1) Any car that is approaching 20 years old is a project car.
2) Generally speaking: mechanical is cheaper than cosmetic. If you're slighly mechanically inclined (or want to be), you can repair everything on this car easier than any other car I've ever worked on. But most people aren't equipped to deal with paint/dents/rust/etc properly, and you'll pay out the nose for this to be done. So I'd be more concerned about the condition of the body.. Of course, for 4k, it had better be in damned-near show room condtion.
1) Any car that is approaching 20 years old is a project car.
2) Generally speaking: mechanical is cheaper than cosmetic. If you're slighly mechanically inclined (or want to be), you can repair everything on this car easier than any other car I've ever worked on. But most people aren't equipped to deal with paint/dents/rust/etc properly, and you'll pay out the nose for this to be done. So I'd be more concerned about the condition of the body.. Of course, for 4k, it had better be in damned-near show room condtion.
#23
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I am a student with a RX7=Answer is "parts car" save money all the time.....
I pay 1000 for a wrecked turbo II ran but turbo bad and a 91,xxx GXL that needed paint..... And recently got a 1987 grey RX7 with 141,xxx.... for $750 https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=443498
If you are a student you can own RX7...you just always have some money in the bank if something breaks
I pay 1000 for a wrecked turbo II ran but turbo bad and a 91,xxx GXL that needed paint..... And recently got a 1987 grey RX7 with 141,xxx.... for $750 https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=443498
If you are a student you can own RX7...you just always have some money in the bank if something breaks
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#24
Originally Posted by AcidShock
Being in highschool and working an entry level job with an RX-7 = disaster. If that car has been maintainted well and everything kept up to specification, you might have it a little easier. However, it is still a car almost twenty years old... that means there are lots of thing waiting to go wrong.
These things include water pump going, rusty/faulty exhaust, electrical gremlins, worn suspension, worn brakes, electrical gremlins, cooling system hosing needs replacement, cracked/cracking vacuum lines, possibly a rebuild on the horizon, and oh yes... electrical gremlins.
This is not meant to disuade you from getting one, but you must realize that getting an old car like this comes with its own set of problems. Especially if this car is turbocharged, you might want to think carefully and search the forum before you run out and buy it.
These things include water pump going, rusty/faulty exhaust, electrical gremlins, worn suspension, worn brakes, electrical gremlins, cooling system hosing needs replacement, cracked/cracking vacuum lines, possibly a rebuild on the horizon, and oh yes... electrical gremlins.
This is not meant to disuade you from getting one, but you must realize that getting an old car like this comes with its own set of problems. Especially if this car is turbocharged, you might want to think carefully and search the forum before you run out and buy it.
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and 4k is way too high of a price. if everything is that immaculate id pay about 2000- 2500.
Last edited by sectachrome; 07-28-05 at 08:15 PM.
#25
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if u really want an rx7 i could sell u mine
im in high school with part time job 2
basically the only FC around my area
im in attleboro MA
88 gxl
2+2
repainted all black
136k miles on the body
replace with new engine when the car hit 90,000 mile on the body, 5th and 6th port works
5spd
so far it has turbo 2 y pipe and mufller
no precats
k&n intake
jdm s5 tail lights
basically mint but
the sunroof only opens up half way
im in high school with part time job 2
basically the only FC around my area
im in attleboro MA
88 gxl
2+2
repainted all black
136k miles on the body
replace with new engine when the car hit 90,000 mile on the body, 5th and 6th port works
5spd
so far it has turbo 2 y pipe and mufller
no precats
k&n intake
jdm s5 tail lights
basically mint but
the sunroof only opens up half way