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86 NA engine with fuel problems

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Old 04-18-05, 05:30 PM
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86 NA engine with fuel problems

I bought a car that had a halfway completed 13b swap. Just missing the wiring. I finished all the wiring to find that I had spark, air, and compression, but no fuel in the motor.

The fuel pump works (FC intank pump), and I have the lines going properly, I have pulled the output and ran the pump and do get fuel coming out of the fuelrails. The pump runs in both "on" and "start" positions. I have 12v on the injectors at the ECU. I have 12v at the Injector Resistors and have 12v at the injectors themselves (only checked the rear secondary though) My ecu is properly wired with 12v and ground. the 12v for the Resistors/injectors comes off the 40A fuse in the engine fuse box, into the main relay, and then to harnes (and resistors and then the injectors themselves).

I can pump fuel in the engine with a squirt can through one of that capped vacume port above the ACV on the LIM. After doing so (and capping it back up) the engine will attempt to start and almost catch until it runs out of fuel. The engine is not flooded. I've pulled the plugs and they aren't wet and do not smell like fuel.

Anyone have any ideas?
Old 04-18-05, 06:47 PM
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Have you used a mechanics stethascope on the injectors to listen for clicking? You might have clogged injectors.

Another thing to look at is the fuel system pressure. Just because you got squirt, dosn't mean it's a strong enough squirt.

Hope this gives you some help.
Old 04-18-05, 11:09 PM
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a stethoscope is likely the only tool that I don't have access to. But I'll try to ask around to borrow one.

I'm confident that I have fuel pressure because the fuel coming out of the rail halfway filled a gallon jug in a matter of seconds. [edit] I also replaced the FPR with another stock one (which looked brand new) that we found on a rail in the junkyard looking for injectors to send off for cleaning for my 88vert with leaky injectors
Old 04-18-05, 11:35 PM
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Check to make sure that you MAF is sending the signal to the fuel pump to turn on once the car is started. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the MAF from the air box and turn the ignition to the on position. With the ignition in that position, push the flapper door open and you should hear the fuel pump turn on.
Old 04-19-05, 12:22 AM
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I forgot to post that I have the fuel pump wired in as stock for the 1st gen. Also there was some funky short in my wiring/AFM that caused that caused the 12v for teh fuel pump relay inside the AFM to draw 60 amps or so at starting (I suppose it would do the same if i just pushed open the door). Considering I didn't even use the AFM or the circuit openening relay to power the pump I just disconnected the 12v to that part. like I said I have fuel coming in and out of the rails at both "on" and "start"

I will test that the AFM still displays a full range of voltage when the flapper door moves tomorrow. But one's engine should atleast start (assuming the fuel pump is on) rev and die quickly with no AFM (like a large vacuum leak) right? I also have 2 turbo AFMs lying around that I can use incase the NA one is broken (yes I know that the turbo AFM will make my engine run leaner)

[edit]
I guess my best option is to check to see if my injectors are actually "clicking" in the car, or I suppose I could pull them and fire them with a 12v source (I have spare primary/secondary rails & injectors from an NA S4 with their plugs cut off the harness so I can easily build a test rig. Hopefully clogged injectors are my problem

Last edited by Kingbob; 04-19-05 at 12:27 AM.
Old 04-19-05, 01:15 AM
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I know you have a spare CAS.

Hold that CAS in your hand and connect the electrical plug of the installed cas on the one in your hand.

Turn the key to ON.

Spin the CAS's gear with your fingers. You should hear the injectors click. Did they click? If you can't distinguish the click of the sparkplugs from the injectors, then remove the little, two wire, white plug from the lead and trail coil assy's and spin the CAS gear once more.

Also get the meter out and go to the small plug on the ECU. Remove the plug. See if you have a good ground on pins 3A and 3G
Old 04-19-05, 02:59 PM
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I've got good grounds for sure, first thing i checked... I'll try out the spare cas when I'm home.
Old 04-19-05, 03:34 PM
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I could clearly hear the plugs clicking, but I couldn't hear anything with my head right by the secondary injector rail. Are they loud enough that i should hear them over the fuel running through the rail? I would think so... hmm...
Old 04-19-05, 04:41 PM
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The AFM range checked out.

I have only a few millivolts on the ground lines compared to a ground straight off the battery. all of the other lines checked out. except that I found that I hadn't grounded the Inhibitorswitch line and it was still reading 12v at the ecu . Also my water temp and my Intake air temp (at the Dynamic chamber voltages were at twice what the FSM says they should be... but I doubt that's a big problem (or atleast related to my nostart issues)

[edit] I did take all the voltage readings through the back of the connector on the ECU. so it wouldn't be the cause of the weird temp voltages

Last edited by Kingbob; 04-19-05 at 04:45 PM.
Old 04-20-05, 06:07 PM
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any ideas?
Old 04-20-05, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingbob
I could clearly hear the plugs clicking, but I couldn't hear anything with my head right by the secondary injector rail. Are they loud enough that i should hear them over the fuel running through the rail? I would think so... hmm...
Your secondaries won't be on line at this point, but you should hear the primaries...
Old 04-20-05, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingbob
The AFM range checked out.

I have only a few millivolts on the ground lines compared to a ground straight off the battery. all of the other lines checked out. except that I found that I hadn't grounded the Inhibitorswitch line and it was still reading 12v at the ecu . Also my water temp and my Intake air temp (at the Dynamic chamber voltages were at twice what the FSM says they should be... but I doubt that's a big problem (or atleast related to my nostart issues)

[edit] I did take all the voltage readings through the back of the connector on the ECU. so it wouldn't be the cause of the weird temp voltages
You also have to remember that the ECU controls most of the grounds associated with the sensors. In other words, if you read 12v at a wire at the ECU, it doesn't mean that the circuit is energized (even though voltage is present, current is not flowing until the ECU grounds the circuit, at which point voltage would drop to near 0v).

The temp sensor voltages can be tricky, because the OAT (outside air temps given in the FSM) and the engine block temps could very well be different.

What are the voltages that you read? I have a long list of voltages garnered over the years with the sensors at different temps/ engine conditions, we could compare 'em....
Old 04-20-05, 10:51 PM
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I got it started. The wiring was fine, however, the injectors were totally dead and encrusted with all kinds of funk and nastiness. I had to spray the secondaries diffuser thingy with carb cleaner to get it to come out. I swapped out the injectors with some I had on the bench. Cranked it and it sputtered to life after a few timing adjustments.

Thanks for all your help. Probably could have done it without y'all but it would have taken another weekend.
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