HAILERS2

The early 86-87 have a relay ON the heater/blower housing that pulls in whenever the key is put to START (turns off the blower so you have more batt pwr to start the car), so it's very possible that you hear a relay click on both sides of the interior. One the Circuit Opening Relay on the left and the blower relay ON the blower housing on the right side of the interior. Both normal things to hear when putting the key to Start on early RX series four.

Not talking about the two relays just below the heater blower motor which are the Ex-HI relay and the Heater relay. This relay I speak of is up on the side of the blower housing assy. Series four and early series four only.

And none of what I just wrote will help you get your car started. Just FYI.

Rotary_Junkie

thats defently on it seeing as i changed the starter twice trying to figure this out. im pulling the whole harness up where i can see it and tracing it. i do have a black with red strips on it cut.....idk?! hooked it up once and nothing so i pulled them apart again

Rotary_Junkie

it explains the noise though so, much appreciated!

Rotary_Junkie

AWESOME!!! it was the starter relay. i check all my wires then jumped the relay and it started........but it is running like a pile of poo! lol it never ran like this before i hit that bump. is it a clogged injector or could it jump out of timing? so close.... appreciate all the help!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Explain your "poo." What does the car idle at? Does it idle okay but drive poorly and if so then what sticks out as being obviously wrong with the drivability of the car.

Rotary_Junkie

En I start it,it's very ruff and I have to give it some gas. It' sounds like it missing or as if it has clogged injectors. Well it idles at 2 grand and then when it warms up idles teal ruff at 750 where it should. It runs on it's own. But it idles and drives as if I blower a head gasket on my 240sx lol this actually happened once before when I was playing in the rain and it started doing this. Never figured out though. Like after a month it didn't do it anymore.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Start w/the obvious such as the TPS. Green/Red wire at TPS plug should read 1 volt w/key to on after the car has been thoroughly warmed up and I mean thoroughly warmed up.

Pull the electrical plugs off of the trailing coil (one has 2 wires while the other has four wires, not referring to the spark plug wires) and see if the car starts and runs off of just the leading coil as it should be able to. If it doesn't start and run then it is the leading coil creating the problem. With the trailing coil disconnected the tach won't work so don't be alarmed by that.

Make sure the coils are bolted to the fender as a poor connection results in a poor ground and the coil won't fire properly.

Jiggle some of the harnesses in the engine bay while the car is running and see if that is the problem.

Try to check the injector electrical plugs to see if they are firmly connected and not loose.

Rotary_Junkie

I'm at work now but will try the coil deal out. I did jiggle around the harness but no luck and I pulled the plugs off my secondary injectors and it did nothing. I can't get to the primary ones without taking the whole upper throttle body off. And I played with the tps and when I push it in manually it almost killed the car lol so I'm sure it's good

Rotary_Junkie

Alrigty i changed the leading coil out and it made no difference. played with the harness and nohing. checked my timeing and to what i believe it is in time.....and doesnt the ecu put it in timing if it was out seeing as its all electric??? jw any other ideas

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes a rough running car can be caused by the Water Thermosensor plug either being loose or one of the two pins in the plug being recessed/pulled back and not making contact with the Thermosensor. You could also measure the output of the ECU pins and compare them to spec (found in the FSM). Once you access the ECU it takes but a little time to measure each value. This would eliminate many of the possibilities.

Rotary_Junkie

where is the water thermosensor plug? FSM?? fuel system management?? sorry im learning still. sorry to pester you but i really do appreciate all the help that youve been giving me.

satch

iTrader: (1)

FSM: http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page...nual#secondgen
(look in the fuel and emissions section for NA)

The Water Thermosensor is located towards the top and back of the water pump and has a Green plug.

Rotary_Junkie

ahhh also known as coolant temp sensor.... that is hooked up good. it was good before. checking fsm and about to tear apart upper intake and changing injecors

Rotary_Junkie

that link was no help

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sure about that? Try clicking on the 88 FSM icon please!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Checking the voltage value at the proper ECU pin is the "only" way to verify if the connection/plug is good to go.

Rotary_Junkie

Nothing happens when I click on it. Idk I'll try in a different web browser. What are saying? To check if I have a good connection on my ecu? I can just play with it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you click on the icon another icon "should" pop up which then allows you to "download" the file and often you have to click on the first icon a series of times for the second icon to pop up. Sometimes it will pop up the first time while at other times it requires numerous clicks which can be found to be somewhat annoying.

The plug to the Thermosensor has two pins within the plug which cannot be seen unless the plug is removed or by checking the ECU pin (pin 2I Green/White wire).

Also, check the output voltage of the alternator via the Black wire (bolted to the top corner of the alternator) with the car idling as it should fall within the range of 14.2 to 14.6 volts. A very low voltage output "can" cause the car to run roughly.

Rotary_Junkie

my voltometer on my dash reads right at 12vs. its always read that. while i have the upper intake off is there a link for vacuum line removal for a n/a??? all i find is turboII. im still working on the ecu and reading it

Rotary_Junkie

okay reading the manual.the link works. on checking the timing.....whenever the car is off is the pins suppost to be lined up with the marks on the pully??? if they are not lined up how do i get into timing??? the manual doesnt really give that info

satch

iTrader: (1)

The gauge might be inaccurate. The best way to measure the voltage produced by the alternator is at the alternator as suggested. Takes no more than ten seconds to do!

The fuel and emissions section in the FSM is divided into two parts as there is one link for just turbos and one link next to it for non-turbos.

A timing light would be needed to check it or pulling off the top of the CAS to check its internals to see if it is visibly lined up correctly. Use the "advanced search function" and search in the proper section and you will find an abundant amount of helpful info. It's the best way to learn about your car for the info is there 24/7.


How to set timing. Use the pic in post #12.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...timing+hailers

Rotary_Junkie

quick question......are the primary and secondary injectors the same?????

satch

iTrader: (1)

On a NA they are the same sizing.

Rotary_Junkie

sweet.....thats not the prob lol. i checked the timing. changed my plugs....they looked normal. i plan on checking volts later tonight. i dont have a meter. couldnt find anything on vacuum line removal though. ive seen people block of the diaphram thing on top of the block. was wonderring if i could do that to and what to do with the rest of vacuum line. i already sucsessfully removed the air pump and acv valve and blocked it off.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If your're talking about the Double Throttle Diaphragm located on the front of the throttle body then just cap the line leading to the device and you don't need to bother doing anything to the hard line at the diaphragm.