So i ditched my 5.0L and bought a 6port n/a motor.
So far i have:

Rebuilt s5 turbo
Port matched my 4 port lim to the 6port

Thats pretty much it lol, but anyways.

I still havent quite figured out what I want/can do. These were just my thoughts so hear me out and opinions are welcome.

First of all i didnt pay very much money at all for the 6port motor so whether it runs or not or blows up because of what im going to do, im not at much of a los.

so, i was thinking 650cc injectors along with 750cc or 1000cc injectors, with an apexi s-afc and maaaayybee a computer chip. I know all you rotary heads out there building there engines up to like 400hp or w/e say STANDALONE@@!@!@ I believe that is highly unnecessary for my hp goals or even 400hp A chip and a good tune should be fine in my world.
Anyways i plan on running 12psi of boost on a stock turbo with 650cc and 1000cc/750cc injectors, using just a s-afc.

I also plan on having this engine run very cool. So an upgraded radiator with a fmic.

If for whatever reason you believe this set up will fail, please explain and recommend what i should do. But there is no reason to have a standalone for my setup. I see it as an overkill

My Goal is to reliably run 300hp, thats it nothing more im not interested in any more hp.

So if it would take less boost for my hp goal or i could use stock injectors?

Thanks,
Sean

 

Ummm you kinda seem to have your mind set on this, so no matter what anyone tells you more than likely you will stick to what you want to do.

If it were me I would rebuild with 2 piece seals rather than the the 3 piece in there. While it's open might as well clean the ports up little.
Get hold of a rtek 2.1 or a older one in conjunction with a safc. Document your build and have fun after all thats what we are here for.

Injectors I would run 550 primaries and some big secondaries of your choosing

 

MY mind is set on not getting a standalone, i think its totally uneccasary. I dont actually plan on rebuilding the motor either.
Basically my question was, whats a good setup for my goals. But without using uneccasary add ons.

 

Wideband, RTEK 1.8, SAFC, 255lph fuel pump, 720x720 or 720x1000. A stock turbocharger will struggle to make 300whp. 275whp is a more realistic goal if you are keeping the stock turbocharger.

 

I thought i read somewhere the s5 turbos were rated at 350hp

 

I'm referring to wheel horsepower, not flywheel. There are some cases of people putting down more than 280 at the rear wheels, but dyno calibration comes into question.

 

Oh i see, with that exact set up you mentioned. How much boost do you think i can safely get away with?

 

IIRC judge ito made 297 on his daughter's car. Mostly stock too.

 

safe ? 9 psi . maybe 11

 

12psi maximum, not recommended for constant use. The turbo won't last long from the stress of running twice its factory boost pressure...as well as starting to put too much heat into the intake. Water injection could be used to offset this.

 

a stock turbo ecu will ping on n/a rotors under boost. ping= detonation(no more engine).

you'll want some sort of ecu that can pull timing.

 

Time to spend money... get a BNR upgrade, and aux injection is nice.

 

I said i just rebuilt my turbo, but i didnt mention that my turbo has upgraded parts as well. But there upgraded stock parts, like quality wise.

 

why not use a chip?

The ecu has no idea they are stock rotors.. All the ecu knows is its a TII engine, because all the external parts were swapped TII, its a 6port turbo not a n/a turbo.

With a decent chip that can change the way the ecu thinks, i dont think im going to need an aftermarket ecu.

btw, whats water injection?

 

Head over to the auxiliary injection forum and you will learn.

 

If your doing a S4 n.a-t i have a Rtek 2.1 tunable ecu for sale. Pm me if interested or have any questions about doing a 6 port turbo.

 

Yes you are correct.
But turbo rotors are 8.5 compression and the NA's are 9.4 compression.

So the computer will think that your engine has 8.5 rotors and the aggressive timing will cause detonation.


Edit: also Rtek is just a chip as well. But it gives you control over the fuel and timing and some other neat thinks.

 

Rtek is also the best and only tunable chipped ecu made for the fc3s as long as its a 2.0+ model. BUT if you ever plan on going bigger than say a bnr 4 than jump straight to a standalone period.

 

Doesn't mean a damn thing. Is the thrust bearing upgraded to 360 degree?

Google it.

 

Doesnt mean a damn thing for a 6pt on a hybird turbo, just dont over boost it out the A$$

 

I dont have a problem at all running rtek.
what does rotor compression have to do with timing? besides maybe a slight difference. Just curious

 

Different compression rotors will overall affect timing of the engine

 

Oh man, you've got some reading to do. Higher compression rotors are going to get to the point of auto-ignition of the combustion chamber (pinging) faster than those with lower compression. That's the reason turbo rotors are lower in compression, if you add positive pressure (boost) then the point of auto-ignition comes even more quickly with higher compression rotors.

You can combat this out by doing several things: adjust timing, run lower boost, run aux. injection or swap in lower compression rotors (rebuild). I'm guessing the latter option is out, but do your research. Plenty of guys have done 6-port turbo 7's with high compression low boost successfully; lot's of info on the site here.

 

Compression has everything to do with timing, texFCturboII has it all correct.

A little but of research will go a long way in helping your project!

 

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