6-Port Versus 4-Port. The RPM battle.
#27
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Canada
Well this 6-Port setup makes it easier. I have a an S4 N/A motor all the way apart. I guess alls I need now is the bearings and a rebuild kit. I'll get the porting done next year.
If all else fails, theres always a chance for PP and RX-8 rotors. Oh my.
If all else fails, theres always a chance for PP and RX-8 rotors. Oh my.
#28
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Like I said, if the homebuilt PP engines are not lasting, there is a critical error being made in design. Done right, they are extremely reliable.
I don't think you can really build a high-rpm engine SAFELY on a budget. If you're concerned about $400 for a header, which you would need just as badly on a BP engine, how are you going to afford the safety features for these kinds of revs? Ever seen a clutch/pressure plate let go? You will need a Trans shield, and if you don't have the abilities to make your own header, you won't have the abilities to make your own shield, and you will have to pay pretty extensively to have a trans shield custom built.
You'll need pressure plate/flywheel balancing.
You'll need extensive oiling mods... stock oiling system will not suffice for safely sustaining those revs, you'll need an external oil pump and regulator.
You will need extensive cooling modifications... stock water pumps and pulleys designed with an 8000 rpm redline and efficiency around the 6000 rpm range will not suffice at double the rpm.
You will need all of this stuff since you seemed concerned with reliability.
I'm not trying to dump on your project... just make you really rationalize the costs of building something that is safe to drive.
I don't think you can really build a high-rpm engine SAFELY on a budget. If you're concerned about $400 for a header, which you would need just as badly on a BP engine, how are you going to afford the safety features for these kinds of revs? Ever seen a clutch/pressure plate let go? You will need a Trans shield, and if you don't have the abilities to make your own header, you won't have the abilities to make your own shield, and you will have to pay pretty extensively to have a trans shield custom built.
You'll need pressure plate/flywheel balancing.
You'll need extensive oiling mods... stock oiling system will not suffice for safely sustaining those revs, you'll need an external oil pump and regulator.
You will need extensive cooling modifications... stock water pumps and pulleys designed with an 8000 rpm redline and efficiency around the 6000 rpm range will not suffice at double the rpm.
You will need all of this stuff since you seemed concerned with reliability.
I'm not trying to dump on your project... just make you really rationalize the costs of building something that is safe to drive.
#30
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Well, if he really wants the power to keep climbing, he could take the 6 port plates, hog them out into one huge port, bridge both the primaries and the secondaries.
It'd be a stupid engine that would make peak power 11,000. It'd be cheap. It wouldn't be a fast car, but this doesn't seem like what his project entails.
It'd be a stupid engine that would make peak power 11,000. It'd be cheap. It wouldn't be a fast car, but this doesn't seem like what his project entails.
#32
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Canada
I already I have all the intake and exhaust components. My old engine ran a Racing Beat Header, and a Holley 6-Port setup. I switched to a Edelbrock carb, which is basically a 4-barrel weber. Its the cats-***. I'll use those. Dont worry, its a big carb (and header at that).
I think what Im going to do as sort of a stage one research project (since nobody around here does N/A) Im going to run a Bridged Primary and Street Port Secondary on a 6-Port setup. My rotating assembly was already balanced out of the box with clutch and PP, which are both full race, copper. So really alls I need is a rebuild kit and port work.
I have a line on port work and a rebuild with labour so Im pretty thrilled. Hes backed up until next year but I'll definetly post some progess pictures.
I think what Im going to do as sort of a stage one research project (since nobody around here does N/A) Im going to run a Bridged Primary and Street Port Secondary on a 6-Port setup. My rotating assembly was already balanced out of the box with clutch and PP, which are both full race, copper. So really alls I need is a rebuild kit and port work.
I have a line on port work and a rebuild with labour so Im pretty thrilled. Hes backed up until next year but I'll definetly post some progess pictures.
#34
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Canada
Electric water pump (already in my possesion).
Oil cooling we are still working on as we dont know if this motor is in a first or second gen. I have a ballistic blanket to use as a tranny sheild. Works well.
Oil cooling we are still working on as we dont know if this motor is in a first or second gen. I have a ballistic blanket to use as a tranny sheild. Works well.
#35
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Alak
Electric water pump (already in my possesion).
Oil cooling we are still working on as we dont know if this motor is in a first or second gen. I have a ballistic blanket to use as a tranny sheild. Works well.
Oil cooling we are still working on as we dont know if this motor is in a first or second gen. I have a ballistic blanket to use as a tranny sheild. Works well.
#36
do a search for the homemade pport housings, using a smaller holesaw and capping the sideports, so say going from 2.25in inlet to a 1.5 or 1.75 and keeping the exhaust bigger will result in a freereving motor with the response you want The exhaust ports will have to be bigger for that kind of power curve. Lightweight rotors a must.
#37
Originally Posted by Alak
I have a ballistic blanket to use as a tranny sheild. Works well.
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