6 port turbo + 12 lbs. of boost = fun!!
03-28-06, 06:22 PM
#26
tom port.. AKA streetport
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crappy pictures but.... my plan is to re-route the IC piping after a electric fan install and a new intercooler...im just wondering if their is enough room to go over top of the radiator hose (between hood and hose) and have room for my strut bar also...
^^^^^ tust me i know it looks bad and has lots of potential leaks...its getting re done soon!!!
^^^ this is how i plan on re doing the ic piping
^^^^^ tust me i know it looks bad and has lots of potential leaks...its getting re done soon!!!
^^^ this is how i plan on re doing the ic piping
04-07-06, 12:24 AM
#30
tom port.. AKA streetport
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well...after a week or two it got really rich again...
i thought about trying for 14LBS again but really dont want to take the risk...
its in the low 10's right now..i havent been driving it because its killing power being that rich but tommorow its supposed to be nice...we will see how that goes...
after i get it to where i want it ...ill go to the junk yard..get me E-fan and re-do the IC piping and clean it up under the hood...ill use braided lines for the oil supply since it looks like crap... then get rid of the AC compressor and the rest of the lines
i thought about trying for 14LBS again but really dont want to take the risk...
its in the low 10's right now..i havent been driving it because its killing power being that rich but tommorow its supposed to be nice...we will see how that goes...
after i get it to where i want it ...ill go to the junk yard..get me E-fan and re-do the IC piping and clean it up under the hood...ill use braided lines for the oil supply since it looks like crap... then get rid of the AC compressor and the rest of the lines
04-07-06, 12:53 PM
#32
tom port.. AKA streetport
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it was a tight fit the way it is...lol
my friend has another IC instead of the top mount up front so it should make it go a little easier...
my friend has another IC instead of the top mount up front so it should make it go a little easier...
04-09-06, 01:25 PM
#34
interesting. how're you dealing w/ timing w/ a S-AFC and non-turbo compression w/ the stock turbo ecu?
should be a real screamer
I'm going 9.4:1 on my 13BT rebuild for the hell of doing something different. Should be fun. I'm going to run the rtek 2.0 while i have hybrid and switch to haltech e8 later.
The compression, the port, power doesnt scare me. Just keeping the temps and EGT at hand and controlling timing. not having enough fuel does haunt me at night sometimes though
should be a real screamer
I'm going 9.4:1 on my 13BT rebuild for the hell of doing something different. Should be fun. I'm going to run the rtek 2.0 while i have hybrid and switch to haltech e8 later.
The compression, the port, power doesnt scare me. Just keeping the temps and EGT at hand and controlling timing. not having enough fuel does haunt me at night sometimes though
04-09-06, 01:31 PM
#35
Rotary Freak
If you can, forget about an E-fan, forget about an intercooler, and get a decent standalone. You can pick up an E6K for well under a grand and if there's someone near you who can install and tune it, you'll be glad you made the decision.
04-09-06, 01:42 PM
#36
I agree w/ e-fan.
Only reason I have for e-fan is extra room to work on car and its a pain to get off the stock shroud.
But the clutch fan works AWESOME and is pretty damned reliable. I've put many miles on differnt RX-7s in 118+ in phoenix and never had any problems w/ the clutch fan not cooling the car or ever failling. Only things to fail where old coolant lines.
Try some alky/water injection.
I agree w/ a standalone too. More power, More control, 5x Safer w/ your setup which is to be honest very rigged together.
The mechanicals will do the job, timing and fuel are another story.
I'm going rtek 2.0 as a bandaid until I get a haltech, but it should be able to control a hybrid w/ streetport and different compression. I only need to have enough fuel
Only reason I have for e-fan is extra room to work on car and its a pain to get off the stock shroud.
But the clutch fan works AWESOME and is pretty damned reliable. I've put many miles on differnt RX-7s in 118+ in phoenix and never had any problems w/ the clutch fan not cooling the car or ever failling. Only things to fail where old coolant lines.
Try some alky/water injection.
I agree w/ a standalone too. More power, More control, 5x Safer w/ your setup which is to be honest very rigged together.
The mechanicals will do the job, timing and fuel are another story.
I'm going rtek 2.0 as a bandaid until I get a haltech, but it should be able to control a hybrid w/ streetport and different compression. I only need to have enough fuel
04-09-06, 01:54 PM
#37
Rotary Freak
The stock fan/shroud setup works a lot better than most any e-fan setup ever will. I drove my TII at 100mph down I-10 through Arizona, then got stuck in traffic in PALM SPRINGS in AUGUST. It was something stupid like 120 degrees that day. The car didn't overheat, but I almost passed out because I was sweating too much (no A/C WHYYYY). I had to pull over, but not because of my car breaking down, for once it was me instead.
But yeah anyways, an E-fan does free up room in the engine bay, but what are you planning on needing that room to work on? Your water pump? Another problem with E-fans is that you need to find a quality temperature relay, the ones that come with the fan have a tendency to fail prematurely and that is something that you DEFINITELY do not want to happen while you're driving down the freeway.
But yeah anyways, an E-fan does free up room in the engine bay, but what are you planning on needing that room to work on? Your water pump? Another problem with E-fans is that you need to find a quality temperature relay, the ones that come with the fan have a tendency to fail prematurely and that is something that you DEFINITELY do not want to happen while you're driving down the freeway.
04-09-06, 02:05 PM
#38
tom port.. AKA streetport
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very rigged together indeed!! lol... anyways, right now im using a rtek 1.7,TII boost sensor and a tII AFM for timing...this was all a very quick thrown together project that will be fixed and done much better this summer....the E-fan was just for mounting the IC and piping a little better but i still have nightmares of it overheating...this i smy first turbo project and i think i did a OK job being that the onyl help i got was this forum...as far as the standalone...i have no one close by that could tune it..i believe i could install it and get it running but as far as tuning im at a loss thier.... but thanks fo rthe help 
im always listening and love the input negative or positive
im always listening and love the input negative or positive
04-09-06, 02:09 PM
#39
i ran both my gsl and turbo ii DAILY in AZ rain, or shine. 118 degrees for about 5 days. and over 110 for who knows HOW many days, but a lot.
I ran the heater on high w/ no ac and the windows down when it was up at 118.
stock fan shroud and the underbelly pan WORK and are no joke. This **** is Mazda engineered to work and work good.
People get too into the aftermarket change out every part and start replacing parts w/ worst parts. The Mazdas are very high quality parts from OE and I only replace them if they're out of theyre effecicient range or are worn out and OE mazda is still too expensive.
My full internals are all stock mazda, mazda 2mm 2 piece seals, fd corner seals, fd oil psi, fd stat gear bearings, some sorta hardeded gears and thats just because I'm SUPER **** about my car. It will be very overbuilt with this equipment. The only thing I would change for the money is Ianetti ceramic seals. Only Mazda OEs or Ianettis, none other will go in my car.
I use all mazda OE coolant hoses, mazda OE thermostat.
I will be replacing suspension for more tire clearance and corner adjustability. I honestly didnt want coilovers but they offered the best of all worlds.
Going with a Koyo to get rid of the brittle plastic endtanks and gain some extra cooling power.
I guess I'm just saying that OE Mazda is awesome and you should always second and third guess your AFTERMARKET parts.....don't give up on OE so fast
I ran the heater on high w/ no ac and the windows down when it was up at 118.
stock fan shroud and the underbelly pan WORK and are no joke. This **** is Mazda engineered to work and work good.
People get too into the aftermarket change out every part and start replacing parts w/ worst parts. The Mazdas are very high quality parts from OE and I only replace them if they're out of theyre effecicient range or are worn out and OE mazda is still too expensive.
My full internals are all stock mazda, mazda 2mm 2 piece seals, fd corner seals, fd oil psi, fd stat gear bearings, some sorta hardeded gears and thats just because I'm SUPER **** about my car. It will be very overbuilt with this equipment. The only thing I would change for the money is Ianetti ceramic seals. Only Mazda OEs or Ianettis, none other will go in my car.
I use all mazda OE coolant hoses, mazda OE thermostat.
I will be replacing suspension for more tire clearance and corner adjustability. I honestly didnt want coilovers but they offered the best of all worlds.
Going with a Koyo to get rid of the brittle plastic endtanks and gain some extra cooling power.
I guess I'm just saying that OE Mazda is awesome and you should always second and third guess your AFTERMARKET parts.....don't give up on OE so fast
04-09-06, 02:11 PM
#40
I bought a HKS F-Con (which I never even used before my motor blew) because it directly changes the injector pulses and does not affect the AFM reading at all.
If you are using stock t2 computer that is.
Dunno if I'd feel very safe w/ stock n/a computer at 10psi?
I assume by you saying you use t2 afm and boost sensor you have the t2 ecu also?!?!?
You could rig this to work, but offboost would be horrible
If you are using stock t2 computer that is.
Dunno if I'd feel very safe w/ stock n/a computer at 10psi?
I assume by you saying you use t2 afm and boost sensor you have the t2 ecu also?!?!?
You could rig this to work, but offboost would be horrible
04-09-06, 02:13 PM
#41
tom port.. AKA streetport
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and...this summer all the coolant lines and other vaccum lines will be ran better and im going with a hybrid....ill prob. get some bu=igger injectors for saftey but none of this will go on untill i get the IC piping straightened out...the N/A elbo to the TB is a pain and is coming out...then ill re-run them and weld most of it together for the chances of less leaks and a cleaner look....its pretty embarrising opening the hood for the factor of it thrown together...but hey..i had about 2 weeks before snow fell last summer to get it done so i hurried the final parts of it...lol but it really does scream!! i can littlerly smoke the tires off if desired...
04-09-06, 02:18 PM
#42
tom port.. AKA streetport
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yes...im using an tII chipped from rtek 1.7 and it is kinda crappy as far as off boost situations...half throttle is so bloody rich....its really a pain using just a SAFCII and wideband to tune it...and the cold starts..ugh...rich as hell...
04-09-06, 02:22 PM
#43
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I remember when I first joined this forum back on 10/02 the only guy that I knew of attempting the 6-port turbo was the man Aaron Cake hisself. If I'm not mistaken he was getting crap from people saying it wasn't a good idea..
04-09-06, 02:25 PM
#44
tom port.. AKA streetport
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Originally Posted by RenofHeavens
I remember when I first joined this forum back on 10/02 the only guy that I knew of attempting the 6-port turbo was the man Aaron Cake hisself. If I'm not mistaken he was getting crap from people saying it wasn't a good idea..
04-09-06, 02:34 PM
#46
tom port.. AKA streetport
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good luck!!!!! hope all goes well......only hard part i had was gathering all my parts together....tII just arent around here so i had to do all my shopping here...
considering i paid 2K fo rthe car and about 1,500 in parts i think it was a great deal for 260ish WHP
considering i paid 2K fo rthe car and about 1,500 in parts i think it was a great deal for 260ish WHP
04-09-06, 02:52 PM
#47
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I am just gonna basically duplicate aarons setup make a couple changes here and there. Ive already started colecting parts. And I am probably gonna run a tubular manifold.
05-05-06, 09:04 PM
#48
tom port.. AKA streetport
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new updates.....
gots me a new turbo
its a Air research S4 stage 2 to4b intake AR.60 exhaust AR. 63 with a H trim wheel.
i might put it on tommorow and just run stock boost to see how it is....
i whish i knew what PSI. would match to the 14 im running on the stock turbo right now..
im gonna go to the muffler shop and have some manderel bends made of 2 inch and re-run my IC pipe soon.....
and i might sell my rtek and SAFC and get me the megasquirt....
o yeah.......
i also gots to get me a fuel pump since the FD just wont be able to flow......
and secondairies..but what size to get????
pics will appear as progress is made...
i may even start to paint it...soon
gots me a new turbo
its a Air research S4 stage 2 to4b intake AR.60 exhaust AR. 63 with a H trim wheel.
i might put it on tommorow and just run stock boost to see how it is....
i whish i knew what PSI. would match to the 14 im running on the stock turbo right now..
im gonna go to the muffler shop and have some manderel bends made of 2 inch and re-run my IC pipe soon.....
and i might sell my rtek and SAFC and get me the megasquirt....
o yeah.......
i also gots to get me a fuel pump since the FD just wont be able to flow......
and secondairies..but what size to get????
pics will appear as progress is made...
i may even start to paint it...soon
05-05-06, 10:30 PM
#50
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im rebuilding my s4 engine as we speak to run until january, whereas tax money will get me everything i need to slap on a turbo just as u've done... i have good experience slapping a turbo onto an engine not made for it with my friend's 10.5:1 '98 hyundai accent (<-- not a typo), that's been a lot of fun and can't wait to do it to my N/A
glad to hear u spent only $1500 for everything, i'm aiming for that amount with the standalone included
glad to hear u spent only $1500 for everything, i'm aiming for that amount with the standalone included