5th and 6th port questions
#1
No rotary, no problems?
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5th and 6th port questions
Well, I've got my engine torn down right now to the LIM, and on Rotary Resurrection tech section, it is recommended that I check to make sure the 5th and 6th ports are working correctly. How exactly do I make sure they are working correctly? Also, what mods can I do with the ports while I have the car stripped down?
#2
Chicken Adobo
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Check and make sure the actuators move smoove and freely. Check that the arm the actuators are connected to turn smooth and free. Get a pressure guage and a low pressure pump and check at what psi the actuators move and if they move equally.
There nothing you can really do to the ports if the block is still together. You could clean out the aux ports and sleaves with carb cleaner and rag if they dont move freely
There nothing you can really do to the ports if the block is still together. You could clean out the aux ports and sleaves with carb cleaner and rag if they dont move freely
#3
No rotary, no problems?
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I was doing some more reading today and saw that you could remove the 5th and 6th port sleeves to get more power out of your car. Is there any other mods you can do with the auxiliary ports? I also read that you could take out the actuators or something too?
#5
i hhave mine removed and i really didnt notice any difference with the low end. i heard the same thing and it to me wasnt that big of deal. i can notice the power at around 5 and 6 and 7 thousand rpms though and so can everyone who has rode in my car. i would do it if i was you. it makes the engine bay look cleaner also.
#6
I am the stig.
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Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
I was doing some more reading today and saw that you could remove the 5th and 6th port sleeves to get more power out of your car.
Working aux ports = Car functions as it should
Removed aux ports = Same top end power as stock, less low end torque
Stuck aux ports = Same low end torque as stock, less top end power
Aaron's guide to aux ports: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6porttest.htm
And the fix: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6portfix.htm
#7
I removed my cats and in doing so don't have enough exhaust velocity to opens my ports, so I zip tied them open...you hardly notice the low-end loss...BIG difference in the high-end though...also my 3800 hestition seemed to disappear...
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#8
No rotary, no problems?
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Well, I've decided to just remove my 5th and 6th port sleeves, as well as the actuators and block them off. Instead of trying to clean them up, I'd rather just remove them from the car and get a little more power, not to mention clean up the engine bay a little. For the guys who have blocked them off and removed them, what did you use? I saw a few people used 1/8" aluminum plating, but wasn't sure if there were other options or if there was a company that make block off plates for it.
Thanks.
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#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Taking out the actuators would only "clean up" the engine bay in the same way taking the engine out would... IMO they're basically un-noticeable. If you really want to clean up the engine bay, you'd have to take out all the emissions and all the accesories, the stock fan, battery, and change out the stock intake manifolds for ITBs or something.
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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On a more ironic note, it seems mine are stuck... I remember cleaning the sleeves themselves when I rebuilt my engine (they were DIRTY, but with a little scrubbing they were silver again. I didn't lube them up though...), but I didn't check whether the arms worked or not... they don't.
I hooked up a long vacuum hose to the actuatory with a T-connector (with a pressure gauge inline), and tried to blow them to 2 PSI (which is as much as you can blow). The FSM says the actuators should be fully-open at 1.5 PSI, although I don't know what sort of PSI is required to open the arms themselves, but I couldn't get them to budge by hand anyway (the actuators were moving a little, but the arms weren't)... so I guess I'm gonna have to fix them. I sure hope I don't have to take the manifold off...
I remember when I cleaned up my VDI system, it wouldn't budge either, and it was DIRTY as well... so I cleaned it, greased it, and it works fine now (assuming the solenoids are doing their jobs).
On another note, my idle never seems to change when I unplug the BAC... I wonder why (the BAC works, I checked it off the car and cleaned it).
I think I may still have some vacuum leaks that I'm covering up for by setting the timing to advance...
I hooked up a long vacuum hose to the actuatory with a T-connector (with a pressure gauge inline), and tried to blow them to 2 PSI (which is as much as you can blow). The FSM says the actuators should be fully-open at 1.5 PSI, although I don't know what sort of PSI is required to open the arms themselves, but I couldn't get them to budge by hand anyway (the actuators were moving a little, but the arms weren't)... so I guess I'm gonna have to fix them. I sure hope I don't have to take the manifold off...
I remember when I cleaned up my VDI system, it wouldn't budge either, and it was DIRTY as well... so I cleaned it, greased it, and it works fine now (assuming the solenoids are doing their jobs).
On another note, my idle never seems to change when I unplug the BAC... I wonder why (the BAC works, I checked it off the car and cleaned it).
I think I may still have some vacuum leaks that I'm covering up for by setting the timing to advance...
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