KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

The guy who rebuilt it was crappy?

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

If that is the case that he only replaced the coolant seals there will be hell to pay.

Anyone else have ideas?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Take off the exhaust and look/feel inside the engine.

Go go ask the guy about your engine.

Boostmaniac

250, give or take.

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

same thing happened to me i bought a rebuilt motor and after my break in miles of 1700 miles and never boosting over 4psi maybe 5psi and never revving past 5,000rpms when it was time to tune it on the dyno it would not run past 5,500rpms and it had low compression on one of the rotors 50,20,50 or 50,30,50 cant remember but something was wrong and bad rebuild is the only thing that anyone can think of so now i am rebuilding it again but still a loss of $2,100
cause when i called them they would not help me and after bugging them about i noticed a few weeks later they shut down
so now i am gonna have Ben from Rotary Evolution rebuild it and i have seen many of his rebuilds so i know i wont get screwed this time

HAILERS

I'm curious. Leave all the schrader valves in and don't depress the one on the side and tell us what the highest reading was after you spun the engine over for three/four seconds. I know you'll not see each face etc. Just asking what the reading is with the schraders left in tact.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

Sorry it took so long to get back on this one. I did a compression test with both schrader valves in today and came up with these numbers.

Front rotor=87psi
Rear rotor= 87psi

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

This is an accumulated pressure reading of 4 second turnovers.

HAILERS

I'd say the 87psi is closer to the real compression than that other figure.

Removing the schrader valve from the SIDE of the tester OR holding that schrader on the side while checking..............makes no sense to me.

Removing the schrader at the very end of the gauge, the part that actually enters the engine, does make sense vs holding the one on the side open. Removing the one on the end and watching the bounces makes sense.

Also a low compression turbo motor isn't ever going to make the compression of a high compression non turbo motor. Just something to keep in mind when you look at various compression numbers on this forum. Personally, just guessing, I'd bet a S4 turbo engine new put out 110 max, what with the eight something to one compression. I have two new rotor housings that someday, someday, I'll put in one of my engines and do a before and after compression check. Someday.

iceblue

Did I fall off a truck or something?

What idiot would do this?

I said that is what I did.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

I talked with the guy who built the motor and he said that S4 turbo motors should have 90psi. Is this a true statement?

iceblue

No because I have had 60k S4 motors turbo crank out 100psi

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

So let me get this straight. Some guy who owned this car paid for an engine to be built and installed. He does whatever with it, and then you buy it. And now you expect that builder to warranty this motor for YOU? Every builder is different, but even with piston engine builders, it's pretty much industry standard for warranties to be non transferrable from original purchasers. That's how I handle mine.

I get what you're saying, you bought a car and paid a bit more because you knew it had a rebuild, than for one you would have bought knowing it needed an engine. But from the other point of view, if you didn't hand the money directly to the builder for services performed *for you*, then you and him have no business relationship and you have no foundation for a beef with him.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

The guy that I bought the car from is the builder. He does this for a living. I bought the car from him with 300mi on the rebuild. That is why I am questioning the rebuild.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

Kevin, what is the compression on your S4 turbo motors when you rebuild them with used housings?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Used housings, depending on condition, can start out anywhere from 80-100. New housings start around 100-105. After 1000 breakin miles that number is usually +10-15psi and they pretty much level off there. Some turbo engine builds with mostly new parts can get as high as 120psi but that is not the norm.

As for your transaction...it's not unusual for a builder to sell a whole car with a rebuild already installed, and without warranty. I personally won't warranty a motor that I sell with a car, unless it is going for a *premium* price. The risk just isnt worthwhile. Usually the price of the car with the rebuild already installed is not equal to the price of a poorly running car plus the price of a remove/rebuild/install job. So for that reason, I feel I am already losing money, no use in taking on additional liability by warrantying a motor I am not making any money on to begin with. The man who pays out of pocket full price for the build will be more likely to respect it, while the man that gets the car at a bargain with the engine already in it will just be like whatever, and shift mad quick on the way home. Not saying this is the case with you, though, just giving you the other side of the story.

gscully

you bought a used rx7 off someone with no warrenty and it runs fine, even if you had a warrenty I don't think you'd have a case unless you had some provision that it would maintain a certain level of compression. Buyer beware you should have compression tested it before buying it, it's quite possible that he only changed the coolant seals, hey you learned a lesson and it could be worse your motor could be blown.

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

That is very true. I could have a blown motor, but I do not. I was questioning the quality of the rebuild and not if it was actually done. There are other problems that I have found out later that are contrary to what the listing said when I bought the car. So, it is not just this problem. There are others and I am trying to get all of the info I can to see weather or not my lawyer should get involved in this matter.

iceblue

you can talk to him. But I know a used car dealership can flat out lie to you and cherry coat your *** and be legal. Other words its tuff shix to you and only thing you can do is take it.

The only legal ground in the situation you can take is picketing at the shop so long as you do not hate speach or slander.

HAILERS

*****

I'm not referring to you or even thinking about anything you said. Just talking to the fellow just above where I posted.